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20 September 2010, 15:20
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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Winterization or run it on the muffs once a month?
What's best? - bearing in mind this is my first winter with a boat and there is a very slight possibility of using it in Nov/Jan/Feb/March but not sure...
As I understand it the main engine will benefit from a good covering of corrosion guard and obviously make sure all linkages etc are well-greased.
Fuel stabalization is not an issue as I can use up the external tanks' fuel in the car but is is best to just empty the fuel bowl or run stabalizer through it?
Manual says to remove plugs and inject some oil and turn engine over.
But why is it recommended to change engine and gearcase oil before the winter?
Or is it best to forget most of the above and just run it for 15 mins on the muffs every four weeks or so to keep everything turning over nicely and lubricated.
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20 September 2010, 16:25
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dartmouth
Boat name: Puffling
Make: Avon Rover 3.4m
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 15hp
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 404
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US eit all year round..
Don't lay it up get a dry suit and enjoy the winter boating fun less yachties in the way!!
Winterise it if not going to use it that way don't have to worry about then.
CHange gearbox oil as if used a lot during season then makes sense to give it fresh oil now.
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20 September 2010, 16:41
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Motor oil, as it gets used, absorbs corrosive compounds as combustion by-products. Probably why they say to change the engine oil (assuming it's a 4-stroke.) Either that, or they figure you won't remember to change it later (I know I wouldn't...) In addition, any suspended solids will settle out over time; better to get all that crap out while it's suspended in the oil, I suppose.
Dunno about the gearcase oil, unless it's the possibility of water contamination (see below.) Suspended solids thing applies here, as well.
The squirting oil into the cylinder thing is to get a film of oil on the liners (which are likely steel), to prevent rusting while it sits. Engine fogging does essentially the same thing, but also hits the entire intake tract.
If you stabilize your fuel and run enough through the engine to displace the untreated fuel, you shouldn't need to worry about either stale fuel, or varnishing problems.
Depending on your location, having any residual water freeze may be your biggest worry. Water expands going from liquid to solid, and when contained in something like a water jacket or LU exhaust hub can split the metal. Though I don't recall seeing anyone recommend running anti-freeze into the engine, it seems it would be a good idea if your location is prone to hard freezes (I'm not in such an area, so I don't worry about it.)
Running it once or twice a month should take care of pretty much everything except the freezing part.
Hope this helps;
jky
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20 September 2010, 16:48
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Use it!
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20 September 2010, 16:58
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Running it once or twice a month should take care of pretty much everything except the freezing part.
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Which would still be a problem if you used it every day!
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20 September 2010, 17:27
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jizm
Use it!
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I guessed this would be the general consensus on a 'hardcore' forum like this one. It's in a garage and reasonably sheltered so freezing should not be an issue and always left in the down (drained) position.
I've always thought it far better to run an engine (even if only for 15 minutes every few weeks) and keep all the internal metal surfaces/fuel/oil pipes and seals regularly coated with their respective fluids than shut it up for four months 'dry'.
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20 September 2010, 17:33
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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In all seriousness, some of the best views of the Clyde I've had were in the depths of January. A decent set of warm stuff under your waterproofs, a good hat & gloves and job done!
Back to you your needs tho' - can't tell what flavour it is from your profile, but if it's a 2- stroke, just runnng it will coat everything in oil. Just remember to drain the carb (I do it by pulling the fuel line & waiting) otherwise once the petrol evaporates you'll end up with a puddle of something resembling crude oil in the bototm of the bowl which will block jets.
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20 September 2010, 17:42
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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It's a four stroke (Mercury EFI 60). Have been told that you get lots of really nice 'glassy' winter days down here (E. Sussex) over the winter when the southwesterlies give way a bit - could be good for skiing I guess if brave or foolhardy enough...
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20 September 2010, 21:11
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,901
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I use mine all year, so generally haven't winterised.
DO Run the engine on muffs every four weeks or less.
DO Drop the leg to the lowest position to drain all the water out.
DO Charge your battery afterwards and possibly remove.
DO Check the engine after frosty periods for stiff linkages etc.
The willkcraft was not winterised during the worst winter in 30 yrs and both engines started first time (above list adhered to)
I have to add (echoing 9D280) that winter ribbing is good for the soul. You may not go too far or too often, but that "lift" in the short days is a life saver
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20 September 2010, 21:22
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Removed for stating the obvious.
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20 September 2010, 21:34
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
However, the Etec 'extended period' storage mode is so quick and easy, I'd be tempted to run it after every use if the boat was only being run monthly in the winter.
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Err, yeah, but I don't KNOW when the next day out will be, 'cos it's WX dependant, might be that week. I have done the "whole monty" only to undo it a few days later. I reckon that if the cooling system is drained of water, the motor is fired every few weeks and the fuel is fresh, there shouldn't be too much trouble. Keeping the battery charged is a must too, obviously...
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20 September 2010, 21:55
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#12
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Not 100% sure on applying this logic to outboards but I can't immediately think they would be any different to any other engine in which case running it cold on idle for short runs and never getting it hot and under a decent load, is probably about the worst thing you can do. With most engines you are better off to give it a good long run and lay it up hot and healthy than you are to start it once a month "just to give it a run", under those conditions it never gets hot and probably just gets all sooted up and full of corrosive gunge.
However I am a fully paid up member of the "I have a Fladen suit and don't give a stuff about the temperature" club - as long as my eyes aren't watering too much to see where I'm going, I'll be off, and I've got a Phace for the eye watering days
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20 September 2010, 22:26
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Romney Marsh ,Kent
Make: Osprey 5.85
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max...
It's a four stroke (Mercury EFI 60). Have been told that you get lots of really nice 'glassy' winter days down here (E. Sussex) over the winter when the southwesterlies give way a bit - could be good for skiing I guess if brave or foolhardy enough...
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Hi Max,
Sorry to have missed you the other day, heard that you had a few small probs? all sorted now?.
We try to get out at least once a week all through the winter months. Have just bought some decent wet weather gear at greatly reduced prices from you would never guess..TK Max!
Southwesterlies add to the Fun of it. We had quite a few flat days last winter - probably better than this summer!!
Its when the wind comes from North East it gets Brass monkeys!!
Regards
Mike
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20 September 2010, 22:34
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#14
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Not 100% sure on applying this logic to outboards
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Well yes, but that's just 'cos you haven't thought it through. One runs it once a month, ONLY if it didn't get a jolly good hiding up the Lough. So really it's just to coat the surfaces with oils and make everything else turns over a few times. Just in case it doesn't get out in the next week or so. Silly
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20 September 2010, 22:40
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#15
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max...
It's a four stroke (Mercury EFI 60). Have been told that you get lots of really nice 'glassy' winter days down here (E. Sussex) over the winter when the southwesterlies give way a bit - could be good for skiing I guess if brave or foolhardy enough...
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Would you be less likely to snap up the chance to use it on a nice afternoon in december if you had winterising it properly and would need to repeat this to put it to bed again for hte next 3+ months? If that's the case then I'd adopt the run it regularly route - if its little inconvenience then you should probably go the winterisation route each time even if using it a few times over winter.
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20 September 2010, 22:41
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
that winter ribbing is good for the soul. You may not go too far or too often, but that "lift" in the short days is a life saver
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Hmm .. Ive never considered this but I have the gear so why not ..
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20 September 2010, 22:49
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#17
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7
Hmm .. Ive never considered this but I have the gear so why not ..
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These were the best of days, especially if the company was right. I'll be continuing the tradition until they plant me and I'd swear it beats vitamins!
Winter ribbing
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20 September 2010, 22:58
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancashire
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 164
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I usually winterize my outboard motors. But as others have said, the thought of going through the whole process again puts you off venturing out during the winter months.
This may be a stupid question but i`ve often wondered if running your motor in a barrell with some anti freeze in with the water would be a good or bad idea?
I nearly always use a barrell instead of muffs, i`ve just never added anti freeze in case it was to do any internal damage. Anyone got any advice?
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21 September 2010, 00:04
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: bedford
Make: tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: outboard 60hp merc
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 338
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I always run mine either on a local lake or on the muffs every few weeks and have never had a problem, with carbs or the fuel system. Keep it in the garage and always leave it in the fully down position.
While running in anti freeze seems a great idea the only people who seem to do it are the guys with outdrives.
Years ago when my dad was the boss we used to run the OBs in fresh at the end of the season with some soluable machining oil in the water to coat all the water passages.
Good luck
Dave
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21 September 2010, 10:12
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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Thanks for all the input guys.
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