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15 December 2013, 09:48
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 209
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Would you?
I have been offered an engine (Honda 50, about 2003). This is exactly the engine I am looking for.
But
It has been under water. Salient facts are...
It wasn't running when dunked, it was on a boat that sunk at it's moorings
It was under water for only an hour (so I am told)
It was in salt water
The engine has been used for a few months since it's dunking
I am told the owner traded it in for a new one, don't know why.
Engine is very cheap, probably about a third of normal price
Now I know it's impossible to express a firm opinion. But would you walk away based on these "facts"?
Any further advice would be welcome, like what might need replacing?
Sent from my HTC One X using Rib.net
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15 December 2013, 09:59
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#2
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,920
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I'd be more likely to buy it immediately after it was dunked and before it was run so I could strip it down and make sure it's re-commissioned properly with proper regard to longevity.
If you can find out how it was looked after prior to it's dunking you might be onto a winner, or storing up trouble for next year as it corrodes inside.
Nasher.
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15 December 2013, 12:01
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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My two stroke johnsonrude got dunked and fresh water was squirted everywhere within the hour (just).a hose pipe was put straight into the cylinders..then WD40 filled the cylinders... an hour later it was running fine again, i did however change ALL the electrics from Coils to Junction boxes for resale as i knew that running this type of engine was not going to give me reliability that i needed.
As for a Honda. i honestly cannot answer. i've owned two now. a 90 and a 40 four stroke and they do sport a fair amount of corrosion after 6 years old i found.
I would need to know whether ALL the ign and electrical connectors where properly greased before the dunking and go from there.
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15 December 2013, 12:23
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#4
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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I have no mechanical skills so I wouldn't even consider an engine that had been dunked. The only possible attraction is price. So ask yourself, why are dunked engines cheap?
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15 December 2013, 15:40
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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You might be best to price up a new loom and leccy bits, then add that to the cost of the motor and see if it still makes sense ? If it were me, and I wanted offshore reliability, I'd change all of that, as all the electrics will be damp proof, but not dunk proof IMO
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15 December 2013, 15:48
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 100hp Yam/150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,069
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Generally the cot of replacing the electrics on an engine of that size will write it off.
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15 December 2013, 19:32
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 209
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Thanks for the info guys (and girls)..
Willk. I know your question is anecdotal but.... The reason a dunked engine may be cheap is not just due to the damage that dunking may (just may) have done. It is also due to the fact that many people (with good reason) do not want to buy such an engine. In the demand/supply ratio this tips things in the direction of supply and hence reduces price.
However I intend to do a complete strip down to check things out and repair/replace/overhaul where necessary. In addition I have the same engine to use as a template when sorting / rebuidling.
So my real concern is - how much may be knackered? If I have to replace all the electrics - I'm stuffed.
It all boils down to price .... as always!
Thanks again for the input
Thinking...........
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15 December 2013, 19:45
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Hysucat
Make: Hysucat
Length: 8m +
Engine: Twin Suzuki 175's
MMSI: 235102645
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 861
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If you intend to do a complete strip down / rebuild then really all that matters is the price. Price in a new loom and electrics and if its still affordable, buy it. If its been used since the dunking then the electrics do still work - can you get it running before buying it ?
What is the alternative ? An new one, or another second hand one which may have been neglected / dunked anyway.
Get it cheap, swop the electrics after a strip and rebuild and I would have thought you would be fine.
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16 December 2013, 23:28
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#9
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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Most electricals now a days can hold water well if the sea depth at which sunk was not that deep, if the engine starts and runs fine no problem, but will have my doubts about all internal rotating parts specially ball and needle bearings along crank pins in the short run, could collapse any time soon and engine will simply seize to a abrupt stop. If still wanting to buy it make seller a real hostile offer and see what happens...
Happy Boating
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17 December 2013, 09:03
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 209
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Engine is actually on eBay
Item number 111235798450
Price has gone too high for me so I won't be bidding.
Bear in mind price doesn't include any controls, they're offered at £220.
Based on what I've seen online I reckon I can get similar )complete) for about £1500 or so.
Thanks for the helpful comments and advice.
Still looking......
Sent from my HTC One X using Rib.net
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17 December 2013, 09:49
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#11
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Member
Country: Other
Length: no boat
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Searider
Generally the cot of replacing the electrics on an engine of that size will write it off.
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I think this issue is quite important and bear in mind the engine is 10 yrs old anyway. Like car electronics etc quite a lot has moved on since 2003 - you only have to look at the Sat Nav / Radio in my car of the same year to see the point.! I had a Suzuki fall off the back of a small rib I was towing in rough weather at night. It stayed with the rib amazingly - hanging off fuel lines and controls. Managed to recover it after a few hours when the weather eased. Finally got it to land after about 24 hrs and was able to dunk it properly. It ran ok considering but after about 6 months corrosion / problems began. God intervened as someone then stole the whole rig - only insurance claim in 10 yrs. I do feel I was saved a whole lot of bother in the long run. It will be a risk taking on this engine. However if you are a good engineer and the right remedial work was done in the first place it would be worth it.
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17 December 2013, 15:49
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#12
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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From experience, have a client that offers towing services for surfers, takes them to the point back again to catch a new wave. Driver sometimes flips entire rib/engine and says nothing to owner.
Although engine is rinsed with fresh water near inmediately after and engine springs back again to life, in the short run engine ends being seized because that's salt water and has lots of sand in suspension that gets to cranckase interior and mixes with all rotating parts which are oiled.
What you should do inmediately after is wash all engine parts with fresh water, tear appart cranckase and wash all rotaing parts immaculate clean to be on the safe side, re assemble back power head, change plugs and that's it. Now imagine all the sand that could enter engine just by lying on a sand bed for 1 hour....
Happy Boating
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17 December 2013, 17:45
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 209
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Engine (bare) sold for £1,060.
Too much for me
Sent from my HTC One X using Rib.net
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