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05 July 2010, 11:23
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornaby
Boat name: Storm
Make: Humber Ocean Pro 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 150
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 355
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XD 50 Evinrude oil.
i am now the proud owner of an evinrude Ficht, and i know after all the reviews i still went ahead, it's mint and was bought from a dealer.
but my question is, How expencive is the XD 50 oil !!!!!!! does anyone know where i can get it from cheaper?!?!
thanks Phil
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05 July 2010, 11:47
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#2
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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I thought XD50 was just a TCW3?
On the Etec I was under the impression that you had the engine set at PDI to run either XD100 (which is bloody expensive) or TCW3/XD50 in which case you could run either XD50 or any other TCW3 oil which would imply they are the same?
If I have misunderstood I need to order some fairly urgently!
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05 July 2010, 11:57
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: Thunder
Make: Halmatic Arctic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x 150 Etec
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 523
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Advice I was given was to leave it on the XD50 setting but use xd100 which gives the engine a bit more protection. If you have the setting changed to XD100 the engine uses less oil but you have to use the xd100 oil.
To be honest the things use so little oil that I am happy playing it safe.
In terms of buying it the cheapest place i could get it was from John Price at www.ribstuff.com.
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05 July 2010, 11:58
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
I thought XD50 was just a TCW3?
On the Etec I was under the impression that you had the engine set at PDI to run either XD100 (which is bloody expensive) or TCW3/XD50 in which case you could run either XD50 or any other TCW3 oil which would imply they are the same?
If I have misunderstood I need to order some fairly urgently!
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I wouldn't run my Evinrude on anything other that the correct XD Oil, it's expensive but so is a blown engine. TCW3 would be good for an emergency but nothing else IMHO.
As for you Stephen, you'll have to run with the Genuine Evinrude stuff otherwise you risk voiding your warranty.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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05 July 2010, 12:00
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueboy758
i am now the proud owner of an evinrude Ficht, and i know after all the reviews i still went ahead, it's mint and was bought from a dealer.
but my question is, How expencive is the XD 50 oil !!!!!!! does anyone know where i can get it from cheaper?!?!
thanks Phil
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Gordy beat me to it, I was going to say RIBstuff too. However with shipping costs it might well end up more expensive than a local outlet.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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05 July 2010, 12:58
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
As for you Stephen, you'll have to run with the Genuine Evinrude stuff otherwise you risk voiding your warranty.
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Yes, you wouldn't want that, living in the Falkland Islands with no dealer for 1000s of miles
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05 July 2010, 13:23
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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Evinrude's PC software for DIs and Etecs gives the option to set the Etecs to run on TCW3, so they can't be too worried...
I'd run the FICHT on TCW3, the gearbox will probably fail before the powerhead anyway
Cheapish XD50 here as mentioned at Ribstuff (note it's 2.5 US gallons)
As regards running an Etec on XD100, when set for XD50, I've inadvertently done it and wouldn't be repeating the experience. The side running on XD50 settings ran smokey at startup and low revs and used almost twice as much oil as the other motor, reducing my fill cycle from about 450Nm to about 250Nm.
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05 July 2010, 13:46
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
Yes, you wouldn't want that, living in the Falkland Islands with no dealer for 1000s of miles
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Well that's even more reson for using the genuing stuff then
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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05 July 2010, 22:53
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#9
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
I wouldn't run my Evinrude on anything other that the correct XD Oil, it's expensive but so is a blown engine. TCW3 would be good for an emergency but nothing else IMHO.
As for you Stephen, you'll have to run with the Genuine Evinrude stuff otherwise you risk voiding your warranty.
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I had formed the impression from Roy that a lot of people used TCW3 with no problems, but I'll check it out!
In fact if the engine is PDIed and fitted at a dealer (which it is) and given they say no dealer maintenance in the first 300hrs / 3 years, if it sh^ts itself completely any time in the first three years I should be able to take it off and send it back ... whereas if I'd chosen a four stroke the warranty would have been void as soon as the first 20 hr (or whatever) service hadn't been done.
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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05 July 2010, 23:33
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
I had formed the impression from Roy that a lot of people used TCW3 with no problems, but I'll check it out!
In fact if the engine is PDIed and fitted at a dealer (which it is) and given they say no dealer maintenance in the first 300hrs / 3 years, if it sh^ts itself completely any time in the first three years I should be able to take it off and send it back ... whereas if I'd chosen a four stroke the warranty would have been void as soon as the first 20 hr (or whatever) service hadn't been done.
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Sounds like you have your finger on the pulse
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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06 July 2010, 01:13
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#11
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Sounds like you have your finger on the pulse
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Just keeping tabs on potential liabilities if the worst happens! I am of course hoping for many years of trouble free use from both boat and motor
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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06 July 2010, 01:19
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Just keeping tabs on potential liabilities if the worst happens! I am of course hoping for many years of trouble free use from both boat and motor
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'Tis a good plan. I'd still change plugs/gear oil and inspect the impeller yearly though. Warranties don't cover line cutting into propshaft seals and other mishaps.
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06 July 2010, 01:36
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
I'd still change plugs/gear oil and inspect the impeller yearly though.
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So would I
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06 July 2010, 01:59
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#14
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Wouldn't pulling the motor to bits to change the impeller (probably not much point in reusing an old one, for the cost versus the hassle of getting to it) invalidate the warranty?
I've no major paranoia about impellers, as far as I could tell the motor on the Destroyer was still on its original impeller at 10 years and 450 hours when I sold it, I did buy a new one a couple of years ago and intended to change it but .... um .... round tuit list
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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06 July 2010, 07:58
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
I am of course hoping for many years of trouble free use from both boat and motor
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I 'spose one that held air would be a novelty after the auto-deflate Humber.
Where did the Humber go BTW?
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06 July 2010, 09:53
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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I have serious reservations about this 300 hour/3 Year etec service thing.
I'd hate to be the lad who has to drop the leg after three years in salt water (that's going to be you, Stephen )
Same concerns regarding gear oil as the lads above
I'd want the plugs checked annually - they're VERY expensive, so I don't replace them unless they need it.
All the other general lube stuff is DIY.
BTW Stephen, I'd guess that plugging "dealer" software into an Etec fairly much blows your warranty out of the water
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06 July 2010, 11:37
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#17
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
Where did the Humber go BTW?
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Sold it to a local divers group.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
BTW Stephen, I'd guess that plugging "dealer" software into an Etec fairly much blows your warranty out of the water
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Dealer software is like a chainsaw, nothing illegal about owning one just as long as you don't hack anybody up with it
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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06 July 2010, 22:18
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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E-tec care tips
I have just had to replace my spark plugs at 130 hours. Apparently this is about the most one can expect from a set of plugs. They were pretty worn out and had started to cause the engine to stall at idle.
It is worth removing all the bolts from the gearcase one at a time then greasing them with triple guard before refitting, do this every 6 months or at least yearly. This way when the time comes it wont be an angle grinder job
It is recommended that the powerhead is rinsed off with a low pressure hose after use in salt water, just take of the cowling and rinse it down, just don't aim the hose into the air intake. I did not do this in the first year of use and my sounder was chucking water up at the side of the engine and there were definate signs of corrosion on the brass oil recirculation fittings at the bottom of the engine.
Nothing wrong with plugging in the dealer software you must have located somewhere on the web it won't have any affect on your warranty.
Every year take of the lower cowls and corrosion guard any bolts you can see likewise give the whole powerhead a blast with the corrosion guard.
Other than that just keep your fuel filters clean and dont put shit fuel in it as the injectors are sensitive to water etc and long term use of shit fuel (E10) will just end in tears.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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07 July 2010, 09:32
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#19
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Nothing wrong with plugging in the dealer software you must have located somewhere on the web
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