yamaha 150 will not start or tilt - Page 2

Nos4r2 · 14 February 2010, 22:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradosh

thats right

there was some good arcing on the terminals
i only bought the rib 3wks ago now all electrics are checked and fit for purpose

Is there an inline fuse on that socket now?

bradosh · 14 February 2010, 23:04

no
just all terminals cleaned up and well greased

Downhilldai · 14 February 2010, 23:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradosh

no

No fuse on a lighter socket?

bradosh · 14 February 2010, 23:13

unless that was 7amp clear glass one my spark said had blown ??????

i will double check though

PeterM · 15 February 2010, 12:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradosh

unless that was 7amp clear glass one my spark said had blown ??????

i will double check though

Do you mean 12v supply - to the engine( to start it) , or from the engine ? If to - I'd expect not to have a seperate fuse, if from I'd expect to have one. Saying that I'm not sure if mine has a fuse

Never looked at that bit if the system

bradosh · 15 February 2010, 18:32

this is the 12v cig socket were the corrosion was causing all my problems between the main battery and the engine.

job done

Downhilldai · 15 February 2010, 19:20

Have to say I don't like that set-up. There's an unnecessary break in the main battery leads to the motor, just to run a 12v socket, which doesn't even have any fuse protection.

Easily sorted though.

walruz · 15 February 2010, 19:33

I am by no means an expert but all advice I have seen says have uninterupted leads to your battery from the engine then take off all other leads from there. And, I am in the middle of replacing battery leads and battery as I went the cheaper (in the short run) option of using car battery leads (DON'T DO IT). This for me means having to lift the enginge off, resikaflex etc so a pain in the ass really.

Ian

neilda · 16 February 2010, 10:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradosh

this is the 12v cig socket were the corrosion was causing all my problems between the main battery and the engine.

job done

I have the same boat - a 2009 model. I don't think it features a 12V power socket, unless I've missed it somewhere....

PeterM · 16 February 2010, 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Have to say I don't like that set-up. There's an unnecessary break in the main battery leads to the motor, just to run a 12v socket, which doesn't even have any fuse protection.

Easily sorted though.

Have to agree - why have it so low on hull and break the main cables ! I'd remove it ( or at least disconnect it ) , and if you really want need one -stick it on the console with its own power and fuse...........

9D280 · 16 February 2010, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

have uninterupted leads to your battery from the engine

An isolator / fuse might not be a daft "break".......

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

Have to say I don't like that set-up. There's an unnecessary break in the main battery leads to the motor, just to run a 12v socket, which doesn't even have any fuse protection.

I'll second that. f you really need power, use a watertight IP rated thing (Bulgin Buccaneer type idea), then, if you really need to occasionally plug a ciggy lighter plug in, use a short adaptor lead that can be kept in the relative dry of your seat and brought out as & when required.

bradosh · 16 February 2010, 18:01

i had the offer to take the 12v socket out. then the leads crimpted together with hydrolics and then potted in resin.
this method is how cables are sealed underground in water.
but now i have found the problem simple maintence will be required to stop the leads from corrosion.
i might have a fuse fitted though

Jizm · 17 February 2010, 11:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradosh

i had the offer to take the 12v socket out. then the leads crimpted together with hydrolics and then potted in resin.
this method is how cables are sealed underground in water.
but now i have found the problem simple maintence will be required to stop the leads from corrosion.
i might have a fuse fitted though

I would

Simple enclosed inline automotive one will be fine.

Downhilldai · 17 February 2010, 12:08

Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Audio-Acce...item3efce4d8f3

Jizm · 22 February 2010, 18:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Audio-Acce...item3efce4d8f3

Just the job, cheap as chips...

Rigaud · 05 March 2010, 21:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

I am by no means an expert but all advice I have seen says have uninterupted leads to your battery from the engine then take off all other leads from there. And, I am in the middle of replacing battery leads and battery as I went the cheaper (in the short run) option of using car battery leads (DON'T DO IT). This for me means having to lift the enginge off, resikaflex etc so a pain in the ass really.

Ian

Exactly, all outboards wire harness main positive and negative leads are ready from the factory to be connected straight on the battery terminals. Someone did something they shouldn't ever do and quite dangerous.