Yamaha 4AC servicing

[Chris]

I have just swapped my 4AC Short for a 4AC long. The long is in nearly as good condition except for some patches of corrosion that suggest it has seen some salt water.

It runs well although is has a slightly funny spot when you throttle up at idle it tends to stall if you twist the throttle to fast. The guy I bought it from said he had cleaned some gummy depostis out of the carb after a long period of storage so I suspect he may have missed a bit, other than this it runs fine. Is there anything else that could cause this?

I have taken the dremel to the corroded areas and removed the paint back to bare metal Is it possible to touch up these areas without the engine looking like a patchework quilt?

Can you get the same Yamaha metallic blue paint?

What do you use to prime the areas with?

I removed the lower leg today and checked the impellor which looks fine although I will probably replace it anyway. When I removed the 4 bolts that hold the housing on they were a little stubborn and so I cleaned them up and greased them before fitting them again is there any reason why you should not grease bolts before refitting them?

Finally, I was trying to remove one of two bolts that hold the tilt support lever to the engine and it sheared off. What can I do here? Is it possible to remove the sheared piece from the thread?

Thanks.

Chris

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by Chris1573

I have just swapped my 4AC Short for a 4AC long. The long is in nearly as good condition except for some patches of corrosion that suggest it has seen some salt water.

It runs well although is has a slightly funny spot when you throttle up at idle it tends to stall if you twist the throttle to fast. The guy I bought it from said he had cleaned some gummy depostis out of the carb after a long period of storage so I suspect he may have missed a bit, other than this it runs fine. Is there anything else that could cause this?

It's probably crud in the carb like he suggests. Give it a good strip/clean out with Quicksilver Powertune (it gets crud out very well) and blow all the jets/passages through with an airline.

Originally Posted by Chris1573

I have taken the dremel to the corroded areas and removed the paint back to bare metal Is it possible to touch up these areas without the engine looking like a patchework quilt?

Can you get the same Yamaha metallic blue paint?

What do you use to prime the areas with?

Go to a spray shop and ask them where to find the best place to get an aerosol custom mixed. An etching primer is probabyl the best to prime with.

Originally Posted by Chris1573

I removed the lower leg today and checked the impellor which looks fine although I will probably replace it anyway. When I removed the 4 bolts that hold the housing on they were a little stubborn and so I cleaned them up and greased them before fitting them again is there any reason why you should not grease bolts before refitting them?

No-greasing them with waterproof grease and plenty of it is the best thing you can do.

Originally Posted by Chris1573

Finally, I was trying to remove one of two bolts that hold the tilt support lever to the engine and it sheared off. What can I do here? Is it possible to remove the sheared piece from the thread?

That's the hardest part. Is there anything to get purchase on with anything? Is the other bolt out?
Whatever you do DON'T use an Easy-out. They are useless-You'll end up with a broken easy-out in there which won't drill out and the threads will have expanded on the seized bolt so it'll never come out. If you want it removed bring it up and leave it here for a few days-if I can't get it out then the chances are no-one can.I have a shelf in the garage with nothing on but goodies for undoing seized/sheared stuff.