Yamaha 60 HP Remote Installation

Locozodiac · 13 December 2009, 20:15

Hi all,

Was wondering if any one out there has experience installing a 2 strokes, Yamaha 60 HP long shaft on a rib. Plan placing a central console NFS T-11 Telefelx system (Pic 1), at the end of the cable there's a metal shaft, been recommended to buy clevis kit (pic 2) or transom support kit (pic 3) that also includes the clevis kit as in pic 2.

1-The tramson support kit includes :Teleflex Outboard Clamp Block, Support Tube, and the Clevis Kit. Bolts to the inside of your transom and provides an anchoring point for the steering cable.

2-Does this model still uses the L link arm kit (pic 4) ? no more, uses the support tube ? (pic 3)

3-Which kit model will be needed to secure cable shaft to engine 2 or 3 ? Can someone supply proper pics to see transom/engine connecting details. Thanks in advance for any usefull visual tech information.

Happy Boating

Poly · 14 December 2009, 00:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Hello Inflatable John

A big favor if possible, see you have a rib, need to install a Yamaha 60 HP engine on a 530 rib, would it be possible to post some pics of the hardware needed from remote steering cable shaft to engine. That is pics shot from seat towards transom, if close ups, the better. Do you need to use a transom cable holder ? Seems you are using one. Thanks

Happy Sibbing

Loco, I have essentially the same rig as John (same engine different carbs) on a different hull. I rigged it myself - so it may not be correct - but the steering has been trouble free for 3+ years. My steering cable (its the type with a long plastic screw inside it) runs from the console to the transom, where the bar feeds through the tilt tube of the engine. The end of the extending bar it then connected via a L shaped rod (approx 1/2" diam, roughly 12" long? - like your photo 4) to the front of the engine. [This is all from memory so I may have details wrong]. The cable is however not supported anywhere else on the transom (only by the tilt tube). It may be good practice to do so - but my steering/engine were not supplied with any such supports or instructions.

I assume a 60HP would be the same.

I'm not sure when I'll next be down at the boat but I can get a photo if it help in a week or two.

9D280 · 14 December 2009, 15:38

Loco,

You shouldn't need any form of transom kit for a 60. Unless it's built pre about 1975, the engine end of the cable should go through the engine tilt tube (usually insert it from the starboard side to have the "business end " of the cable poking out to port), then screw the big nut on the cable to the starboard side of the engine onto the thread on the tilt tube, and job done.

You'll then need a "Pic4" link arm (or a variation on that with some more bends) to connect the end of the cable to the engine tiller arm. (not the "hand tiller -there will be abracket with a threaded hole just under the front of the cowl. It may even poke out a bit.

Those transom kits are usuallt sold for older engines where the tilt tube is solid, or rudders for inboard engines. I have a Johnson 25Hp (1972) that could not be connected the way I described above. - it was designed for wire rope steering!

Locozodiac · 14 December 2009, 16:54

Thanks Polwart & 9D280

The engine is a brand new 2009 model, will check engine kit to see included hardware. In a central console, the drive cable that comes from the stering wheel/console must pass sideways (right side) or under console & seat towards transom ? What cable slack engine/transom should be propper ? Has anyone used Teleflex Red Jacket that are far steering superior to standard cables ?

Happy Boating

Poly · 14 December 2009, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

The engine is a brand new 2009 model, will check engine kit to see included hardware. In a central console, the drive cable that comes from the stering wheel/console must pass sideways (right side) or under console & seat towards transom ?

I think that depends on what works for you with cables/trip hazards space for feet, jockey seat or bench seat etc.

Quote:

What cable slack engine/transom should be propper ?

not sure what the you mean. I think the suggestion when I bought mine was an extra ft for the corners.

walruz · 14 December 2009, 22:23

When I redid the cable and engine on my 5.4 I needed a 14 foot cable.

Hope that helps give you an idea.

Ian

PS I don't have any of those additional bracing jobs you are looking at and it is turning the 90 I have without any probs.

9D280 · 15 December 2009, 13:57

Loco, where it comes out the console is, as Pol says, down to the shape of your boat. Mine comes out the rear Stbd corner at 45degrees, runs along under the toob & curls up round to the engine.

No need for a huge amount of slack, as the sheath (outside wall) of the cable is stationary, and fixed to the engine. the bit that moves runs inside.

Throttle / gear cables will need some slack, as they move Port - starboard with the engine.

If you don't have an underfloor duct for your cables, get some flexi trunking (One brand over here is called Copex, not sure about your local market brands) - then use cable ties to fix it to the steering cable & it keeps the whole lot as one neat "twin tube" run to the engine.

Locozodiac · 15 December 2009, 16:16

Thanks mates for the input, rib is a 4.30 metre, so a 14" engine and steering cables will fit nicely, hope so, fingers crossed.

Happy Boating

walruz · 15 December 2009, 17:29

I recon you'll probably be at least a foot long but it will give you more to play with to try different routes.

Ian

9D280 · 16 December 2009, 09:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Thanks mates for the input, rib is a 4.30 metre, so a 14" engine and steering cables will fit nicely, hope so, fingers crossed.

Happy Boating

Why not just measure it? - Got to be better than guessing!!!!

(remember to take a nice curve up to the engine - they don't like 90 degree bends!)

Locozodiac · 16 December 2009, 17:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

Why not just measure it? - Got to be better than guessing!!!!

(remember to take a nice curve up to the engine - they don't like 90 degree bends!)

Thanks 9D280,
The issue is, the rib has not arrived yet, it's still inside container cruising the Pacific Ocean, want to gain some days before it reaches, importing all parts needed like steering system & wheel, cables, instruments etc, the factory has recommended 14" cable for steering engine, will asume it's same lenght for engine box control, correct ?

One tech issue, has anybody installed a electric sensor on top of a standard fuel vented cap, Yamaha 6.5 gallon tank f ? This rib has not an internat fuel tank, so engine tank will be used, asking this because Yamaha fuel cap does not have a gasoline level indicator as Tohatsu and other brands does, incredible but true!!

Happy Boating

Poly · 16 December 2009, 17:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

will asume it's same lenght for engine box control, correct ?

i'm not certain but suspect my throttle and gear cables are shorter than steering?

Quote:

One tech issue, has anybody installed a electric sensor on top of a standard fuel vented cap, Yamaha 6.5 gallon tank f ? This rib has not an internat fuel tank, so engine tank will be used, asking this because Yamaha fuel cap does not have a gasoline level indicator as Tohatsu and other brands does, incredible but true!!

Not done that. Have a Yamaha OEM tank which does have the mechanical tank level (or did till it fell to pieces) assume you can get replacements or that one standard place makes them all so others will fit.

9D280 · 17 December 2009, 10:53

Throttle / gears cables either slightly shorter (no need to turn through 90 degrees at >2 foot radius) or slightly longer if you use a "coil".

As for the tank - the easiest way is to look! Most plastic tanks you'd be surprised how easy it is to see how much is in there...... Also once you get the feel for your boat, you;ll jknow roughly when it's likely to run out. The mechanical guages are useless anyway - they usually have an accuracy of about +/- half a tank! As far as I'm concerned they're just another potential leak source.

Locozodiac · 17 December 2009, 18:13

Seems will have to waiit for the sib to arrive, to order correct lenght cables, Yamaha control box comes with standard 13" lenght that might fit well, but better don't guess.

About internal fuel gauges, must say that Tohatsu's 6.5 gal tanks are very precise, the minimum readible scale will be 1/2 gallon. On my tank have poured one gallon at a time and marked that needle scale position with nail paint up to 6 gallon. So, now have 6 gallon marked positions that are very accurate, don't like guessing how much gas is on tank, as all cruises are not the same, usually don't carry spare gas containers, just full tank 6 gallon outings.

Happy Boating

Locozodiac · 17 December 2009, 18:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

When I redid the cable and engine on my 5.4 I needed a 14 foot cable.

Hope that helps give you an idea.

Ian

PS I don't have any of those additional bracing jobs you are looking at and it is turning the 90 I have without any probs.

Ian, were those 14" cables for steering control and engine box control ? or just for engine control on that SR 5.40 rib ? advise.

walruz · 18 December 2009, 06:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Ian, were those 14" cables for steering control and engine box control ? or just for engine control on that SR 5.40 rib ? advise.

I used the cables that came with the engine and didn't actually measure them. I remember the steering cable as I measured first time at 11 feet and got it badly wrong! Ah you live and learn. I recon it will be about the same as I use 5m (15 foot roughly) battery cables so as to give me about 1/2 m to play with.

Ian

9D280 · 18 December 2009, 11:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

About internal fuel gauges, must say that Tohatsu's 6.5 gal tanks are very precise, the minimum readible scale will be 1/2 gallon. On my tank have poured one gallon at a time and marked that needle scale position with nail paint up to 6 gallon.

Which works well on the flat floor in your garage, but when you are bouncing & rolling in the waves, I can assure you the gauge becomes almost pointless.......Unless you are very good at estimating averages!

Electric fuel gauges (on your console) have a ridiculous amount of damping built in.

But. like I always say, if it works for you.......

Locozodiac · 18 December 2009, 14:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

Which works well on the flat floor in your garage, but when you are bouncing & rolling in the waves, I can assure you the gauge becomes almost pointless.......Unless you are very good at estimating averages!

Good point, in reality we have completely cruising evironment differences, that's why is called Pacific Ocean, where I boat max 15 knots and plain, sometimes, rare brreezy whitecapping choppy seas, just slow down. In summer can light a match in middle of ocean. From experience you can tell distance/throttle/weight/fuel consumption without reading fuel gauges that can be very erratic. Having the cap marked with 1 gallon increments is very useful for exact refill amounts with no deck spills whatsoever.

Note: When you have a complete stop can read fuel gauge properly "Thumbs Up"

Happy Boating