Yamaha 703 Controls - Switch Push to Pull Throttle

[ncp]

QUESTION: Anyone done it?

He's my old thread:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/sr5-4-mo...cal-63110.html

I was able to buy an almost new 703 off eBay for a great price (now I need to sell the 704 I have). But, I had no idea that at some point in time, Yamaha switched from pull to throttle to push. Of course none of the eBay sellers mentioned which version they are selling. (and I surely didn't know to ask)

Here's the engine:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/might-h...a-62973-2.html

From what I've read, the older engines are pull, the newer ones are push. This is the best info I've found so far:
Yamaha 703 Control- converting pull to push

$50 part seems reasonable to make it work how I need it.

QUESTION: Anyone done the do-it-yourself version they mention at the bottom of the article? Is it easier just to buy the $50 part?

[biffer]

Originally Posted by ncp

QUESTION: Anyone done it?



He's my old thread:

http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/sr5-4-mo...cal-63110.html



I was able to buy an almost new 703 off eBay for a great price (now I need to sell the 704 I have). But, I had no idea that at some point in time, Yamaha switched from pull to throttle to push. Of course none of the eBay sellers mentioned which version they are selling. (and I surely didn't know to ask)



Here's the engine:

http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/might-h...a-62973-2.html



From what I've read, the older engines are pull, the newer ones are push. This is the best info I've found so far:

Yamaha 703 Control- converting pull to push



$50 part seems reasonable to make it work how I need it.



QUESTION: Anyone done the do-it-yourself version they mention at the bottom of the article? Is it easier just to buy the $50 part?

Erm. I don't think you need any parts. You should be able to move the internal bit around to change it.
I think !

[nugent]

Simples

I found this years ago. Can't remember where I found it but it does work. I used a button head bolt and 1/2 nut. And thread lock Worked fine

[ncp]

Thanks you guys.

Nugent, those look like the same pictures that are at the bottom of the 3rd link in my first post.

...I need some additional clarification.

Based on the info from that link, I assumed that I'm going to have to tweak the controls. He said:
" I bought a new Yamaha 4 stroke outboard to replace my older 2 stroke Yamaha and figured that since I stayed with the same brand, everything would all plug and play together nicely. Unfortunately, somewhere in Yamaha outboard evolution, they decided that their engine throttles should move in the opposite direction of how they used to; the carb linkage on my new outboard is pushed by the cable to open the throttle while on my older Yamaha, the cable pulled the throttle open. And that's how my 703 control worked."
Based on his comment I inferred: (a) older two-strokes need a "pull" set of controls and (b) new 4-strokes need a "push" set of controls.

So, the new 703 I got is "push". But, here's how the old set of 704 controls works (which I hadn't checked before):
throttle, idle forward: shift cable pulls in, throttle cable pushes out
throttle, accelerate forward: shift cable pulls in, throttle cable pushes out more
throttle, idle reverse: shift cable pushes out, throttle cable pushes out
throttle, accelerate reverse: cable pushes out, throttle cable pushes out more

It seems that I have "push" controls and they work the 1987 two-stroke Yamaha 90. So, did Yamaha flip flop? Old engines were "push", then they went to "pull", and now the newer four-strokes are back to "push"?????

[nugent]

Yes sir

Simply change that cam over and you are set to,go,,

I did it this way from that link and worked fine for me

[RIB-Teccie]

You can but the part which is less hassle or if you are or know someone who can swap the part around and secure it, either solution is fine. The fly in the ointment is whether the control box will come apart. You will also have to invert the parts which are connected onto the rear of the fast idle lever.

[RIB-Teccie]

If you PM me, I have the push to open part. It's the newest version which is part made from hard plastic, which removes the need for the 3 plastic washers, making the swap easy. If you have your part and the 3 washers, I will swap as all my engines are pull to open.

[ncp]

Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie

If you PM me, I have the push to open part. It's the newest version which is part made from hard plastic, which removes the need for the 3 plastic washers, making the swap easy. If you have your part and the 3 washers, I will swap as all my engines are pull to open.

Thanks for the offer.

What I was saying in my last post was that I think that I'll be okay! I don't have the boat at home to take off the cowling and check though.

[RIB-Teccie]

Ok, if you get stuck, you know where everyone is!!

[Antman_1]

Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie

You will also have to invert the parts which are connected onto the rear of the fast idle lever.

sorry for resurrecting an old thread.

I've recent converted my control box from a pull to a push.

however the fast idle lever doesn't seem to do anything. from what I've read if I lift the lever I can use the selector to up the revs while its warming up without it going into gear?

as I've converted my control box do I need to do anything to the fast idle internals?

I hope this all makes sense

thanks in advance

[Tim M]

No you don't. Chances are you haven't put it back together properly [emoji106]

[Poly]

When u lift the lever do either of the cables move ( you have to lift it quite far). When you put it in gear do both cables move? You can check that without the engine running.

[Davie]

When you change them either way you need to flip the disc on the back of the fast idle lever. Take out the 2 countersunk screws that hold on the fast idle lever, it's the bit with the tapped holes you need to rotate 180 degrees.