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14 August 2007, 07:57
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#1
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Member
Country: Greece
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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yamaha 90 prop
Good morning all
I have an inflatable boat (5meters long, 400 kgs weight) with a 90 yamaha two stroke outboard (model 2004). All together (boat and engine weight around 550 or a bit more kgs). The boatīs deadrise is about 22 degrees.
The current prop is the original 17inch aluminum and the boat is doing in WOT 5300 rpm with the boat loaded with 1 person and 100 liters of fuel (the engineīs recomendation is between 4500-5500 which means Iīm good right?) at this rpm the boats speed is at 35 knts.....with the tank half full and 1 person on board Iīm doing 5400 and 36 knts.
At 3700 rpmīs Iīm getting 22 knts
At 4100 rpmīs Iīm getting 25-26 knts
At 4500 rpmīs Iīm getting 29 knts
I was thinking about a 3 blade 17inch stainless one. Do you have any suggestions?
The goal would be better overall performance (not specifically top end speed.....though I wouldnīt mind better speeds through the rpm range but not in expense of handling because sometimes I come across rough weather conditions).
The boatīs use is mainly for weekend fishing excursions with friends.
I could probably send a photo of the transom with the engine mounted so you could get a better idea.
Thank you in advance for your time.
Moiras Nick
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14 August 2007, 09:06
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#2
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Member
Country: Germany
Town: Germany
Boat name: Shibumi
Make: Brig Eagle 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 47
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Hi Nick,
in an older german boat magazine there was a test of exactly this motor (I have the 85 Enduro version).
They tested the motor on a Sessa sport boat with nearly the same weight like your Rib. The interesting fact on this test was, that they compared the original aluminium prop with a stainless one.
I have to look for the exact size in the evening. But I remember that the stainless prop was not so much better in performance than the aluminium one.
A little better acceleration, a little less fuel consumption and a little more top speed, but not significant. Therefore I decided to keep my aluminium prop in use.
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14 August 2007, 09:26
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#3
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Member
Country: Greece
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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Thank you very much idrian. I would be very much interested for the test results.
Iīm not interested in any drastic results....
Iīm working the boat a lot (around 160 hours annually) and the aluminum propellers loose their characteristics quickly. I have two and I change them (and repair the changed one).
Mabe this would change with a stainless.
thanks again for your time
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14 August 2007, 13:29
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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I have a rebuilt Yammy 90 (1991) on my 5.4 SR.
Have both 17" and 19" props. Don't have a rev counter (YET!) and with a baby on the way probably not too soon . But with the 17 I get about 34.5 knotts by GPS and with the 19" I get 36.5.
I just use standard Yam Aluminium props as too many rocks around here to hit and if you do so with Aluminium it's a chipped or broken prop, with a stainless prop it's a broken lower gearbox at least.
Ian
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14 August 2007, 18:08
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#5
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Member
Country: Germany
Town: Germany
Boat name: Shibumi
Make: Brig Eagle 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 47
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So Nick,
here are the results of the test. The boat was a Sessa Key Light 18 with a weight of 480 kg (only the boat).
The test says nothing about the pitch of both propellers, only the diameter of 17"
Hope, that helps
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15 August 2007, 09:30
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#6
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Member
Country: Greece
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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Thank you very much Idrian....
the testīs results are really equall between the 2.
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15 August 2007, 10:29
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester, Oxford
Boat name: mach1
Make: avon SR5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp yamaha
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
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Hi nmoiras
When i was running the original 17" blade with my set up (which seems similar) i was getting similar figures.
I changed after a lot of thought to a 17" Stainless Titan prop, the prop has much better grip which is better for the routh stuff, a larger surface area on the blades which helps acceleration and i improved my top end performance from 36kts to 39kts but my revs droped to 5000-5100 which is still within yam's recomended.
hope that helps.
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15 August 2007, 10:49
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#8
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Member
Country: Germany
Town: Germany
Boat name: Shibumi
Make: Brig Eagle 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 47
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Hi Ian,
did you notice any chance with regard to fuel consumption with the Titan prop?
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15 August 2007, 11:13
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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I've just upped my prop on the K series 85 yam from a 17" standard yam prop to a 19" pitch Michigan Wheel. It's noticeably cheaper to run and my cruising speed is up and feels more comfortable. Max revs have dropped from 5300 2 up to 5000 (max being 5500 on my engine)
It does seem to cavitate a bit easier at higher trim settings though-I'm seriously thinking about dropping the engine down a hole.
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16 August 2007, 23:37
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idrian
The test says nothing about the pitch of both propellers, only the diameter of 17"
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17" diameter sounds a little large. I think the Yam 90 has a smallish gearcase (assuming it's the same gearcase as the F115 - 4.25"?), so a 14" diameter is the largest it'll take.
I would assume the 17" is pitch on the two props. The differences come from different blade shapes and cupping and stiffer/thinner blades and such.
Just as an aside.
jky
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17 August 2007, 08:57
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#11
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Member
Country: Germany
Town: Germany
Boat name: Shibumi
Make: Brig Eagle 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 47
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You're right. My fault. 17" inch diameter is definitely a little to large :-)
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20 August 2007, 13:59
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester, Oxford
Boat name: mach1
Make: avon SR5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp yamaha
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 177
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NOS4r2 mine cavitates rather too easily as well, i have a weight balance issue on mine.
are you on the lowest hole already, or do you intend to take a chunk out of top of the transom to lower outboard???
keep us posted it seems to be an issue on the searider!
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20 August 2007, 16:59
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#13
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian mcconnell
NOS4r2 mine cavitates rather too easily as well, i have a weight balance issue on mine.
are you on the lowest hole already, or do you intend to take a chunk out of top of the transom to lower outboard???
keep us posted it seems to be an issue on the searider!
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I'm on one hole up from the lowest. I think I should be Ok once I drop it that extra bit.
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20 August 2007, 18:12
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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I run mine on the lowest setting. I would NOT take anything off the transom.
No slippage or cavitation problems, BUT, I probably get a lower top speed. Also my hull is flooding while I believe (and stand ready to be corrected) that you have yours plugged up NOS.
Ian
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20 August 2007, 18:24
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#15
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walruz
I run mine on the lowest setting. I would NOT take anything off the transom.
No slippage or cavitation problems, BUT, I probably get a lower top speed. Also my hull is flooding while I believe (and stand ready to be corrected) that you have yours plugged up NOS.
Ian
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Mine is sealed. I'm only on the hole position I'm on because that's where it was when I bought it. My cav plate is about 5mm above the bottom of the transom.
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20 August 2007, 19:10
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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Thing is it only makes a difference on the hole shot as once on the plane it doesn't matter. I haven't measured where I am against the keel as Freedom won't see her trailer until at least October .
Ian
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20 August 2007, 21:53
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#17
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walruz
Thing is it only makes a difference on the hole shot as once on the plane it doesn't matter. I haven't measured where I am against the keel as Freedom won't see her trailer until at least October .
Ian
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Yep. I think I prefer the sealed hull in rough weather though-holeshot in bad seas can be quite important which is why I set up the flap on the flooding hull on my old sr4.
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