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Old 30 May 2013, 23:37   #21
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Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
The box will always be in the same direction relative to the boat no matter which side it's mounted.
Aye .. just meant the cable hatch isn't visible on lhs mount and handle therefor can't be on same side so didn't understand the pic

.... Anyways keen to hear the outcome fellas
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Old 31 May 2013, 04:02   #22
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Your problem is inside the control box. The lower lever(1st) picture has 3 teeth on it that works from the main gear handle. They are not engaged correctly, badly worn or the plastic bush is missing. Take to bits and have a look.
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Old 31 May 2013, 07:04   #23
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The neutral lock works when the handle is flipped over (the box is designed to be reversible). I had two of these on my last rib bolted together with one flipped acting as one unit on twins.

Best way I found to sort out problems with cables is to remove the ends from the engine side and then watch how the bare ends move relative to the engine levers. With the ends removed you can't overstress the box or engine levers. Once you are sure you have the cables the right way around and moving in the right manner you can then get the ends on right. I always found that there was never as much screwed into the ends as there should be for comfort.

Are you in Aberdeenshire?

Richard
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Old 31 May 2013, 08:52   #24
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just north of Aberdeen at ellon everyone seems to be saying something different i guess its hard when they can not see it there self .
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Old 31 May 2013, 09:02   #25
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Hi Richard i was hoping i did not have to change the box back around as it did not work any better when on the other side and everything seems to be working well to do with the box anyway are you close to me or in town . Lawrence
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Old 31 May 2013, 09:15   #26
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I'm going to try & write this as simply as possible as earthdog has already said we have confused him. Hopefully this will summarise the techy advice above in followable steps.

The guys are saying your cable connectors look like the box is in "full throttle forward", even though the lever is in the neutral position.

So, follow this step by step:

With the control box "as is", disconnect the cables at one end. (this will take the engine out the equation, doesn't matter which end you disconnect)

Tests:
1) With the lever in Neutral position, can you engage F & R without lifting the red catch?

If Yes, when you moved the lever across from the other side, there is a white plastic "half moon" with a notch that lives under the lever, held in by 2 coutersunk screws. That should have gone too - move it now!

If no, you know Neutral position on the box is allegedly where it should be.


2) With the lever in neutral position , can you lift the fast idle lever and (pull the deadman before you try this one) - will the engine starter turn on the key with the shift lever in neutral?


If yes to both, then there is something likely wrongly assembled inside the box. Post back as that will take a bit of explaining. (but as you presumbaly haven't taken the innards apart I doublt this will be a "yes")

If no to either (more likely both), then unscrew the lever, move it 90 degrees (to WOT F or R, my money is on F), screw it on & pull it back to neutral. (If it doesn't go back to neutral, put it on the other way).

Try test 2 again. Once you get the fast idle lever working & starter turning with the lever in neutral position, re- connect the cables & if it all seems to work properly-ish, fine tune the cables as you have been.


It's the thing with those boxes that the lever can be mounted at 90 degree incrememnts relative to the gubbins inside the box. I have an old 1960s Teleflex control that you could put the lever on upside down if you wanted! Idea being you could mount it with the cables coming out vertically & still have a "conventional " lever position.
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Old 31 May 2013, 09:50   #27
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Its a yes to all of that and starter turning when in neutral, and no i have not had the innards apart . would it help to take a new pick of inside when in neutral , will go take one just now .
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Old 31 May 2013, 10:49   #28
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Yamaha control box problem

this what it looks like well in neutral.Click image for larger version

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Old 31 May 2013, 12:25   #29
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OK, when you push it into F & R, one of those levers will follow it (i.e move forwards & backwards). The other should then move to open the throttle.

Now, the puzzling thing is that one of them is hard against the end of the slot, and I think Yam throttles are pull to open?

It's been a while since I had mine apart, but can anyone remember if these are "reversible"? (although if you haven't pulled the mechanism to bits it's unlikely that it will have changed on it's own!)

Although something isn't right if it worked OK over the other side of the console.....



If we can't figure this out this afternoon I'll go home tonight & take mine to bits for a comparison.
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Old 31 May 2013, 13:17   #30
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Yamaha control box problem

Sorry if i misled you, but it has never worked with me, i got it second-hand to go with this outboard and no matter what side i have had it on it has not made any difference.
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Old 31 May 2013, 13:22   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthdog1970 View Post
this what it looks like well in neutral.Attachment 80801
That's correct, I've found the manual for the controls and it's in front of me.
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Old 31 May 2013, 14:33   #32
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Lawrence, I have sent a pm.

I'm just up the road from you.

Richard
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Old 31 May 2013, 14:52   #33
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Sorry if i misled you, but it has never worked with me, i got it second-hand to go with this outboard and no matter what side i have had it on it has not made any difference.
No misled, my misunderstanding.

So, Nos has just proved it looks OK.

What happens when you push the lever? What moves where? (or not, as the case may be!)


I have the nagging feeling you may be about to find out what the inside of a control box look like.... There are plenty of little plastic bushes in there. Once they all wear things don't quite travel as far as they should.

Mine was as loose as a <comparison removed to prevent bilging> , but a set of replacement bushes (about a fiver or so about 5 years ago?) later and it's as good as new.

Best go find a screwdriver, a digital camera & a big sheet of paper / card to lay the bits out on - it's an intersting jigsaw puzzle in there..... (But not too bad if you are methodical & careful when you dismantle it)
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Old 31 May 2013, 15:09   #34
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I'll attach the whole reassembly instructions for the 703, you'll probably need them.


<erm...actually, it'll take me a day to do that, so here's an exploded diagramme instead.
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Old 31 May 2013, 15:20   #35
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Also park right outside Mackay marine (yammy dealer) every morning.

This might help. Nice pics.

Yamaha 703 Control- converting pull to push

The fact that you're reading this is probably because you find yourself in the same boat (wow-bad pun) as me; having a Yamaha 703 that moves the throttle the wrong direction! I bought a new Yamaha 4 stroke outboard to replace my older 2 stroke Yamaha and figured that since I stayed with the same brand, everything would all plug and play together nicely. Unfortunately, somewhere in Yamaha outboard evolution, they decided that their engine throttles should move in the opposite direction of how they used to; the carb linkage on my new outboard is pushed by the cable to open the throttle while on my older Yamaha, the cable pulled the throttle open. And that's how my 703 control worked.

Okay, we've figured that much out. But the 703 is used everywhere and has been for years; it must be a simple switch inside the 703 control to use it either way, push or pull, right? Nope.

The Yamaha 703 is MADE either way, the only outside difference being a sticker on the bottom that says either "PUSH THROTTLE" or "PULL THROTTLE". I never saw the sticker until I read about it online and bent over to look for it.
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Old 31 May 2013, 15:29   #36
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That would be very good if you could do that, thanks and yes I think maybe I will need them I have had a look in before but did not know what I was looking for.
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Old 31 May 2013, 17:21   #37
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Looking at this I think I have found my problem, my throttle at the outboard end, is pull and my remote is set to push, I guess that would explain why when the throttle cable is attached at the outboard end the lever has to be forward to get the cable end on at controller and then pull back to move the throttle and obviously this will just not work with the gears, I now do not know if I am happy or sad.
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Old 31 May 2013, 17:29   #38
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At least you know what the problem is.

I think the pull 703 boxes aren't very common so you're probably better off fixing the one you have.
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Old 31 May 2013, 17:33   #39
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Am thinking about having a go at converting it.
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Old 31 May 2013, 20:34   #40
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New ball game that it turns out the control box never did work. post# 35 is what you have to do but it still will not work until you flip the free acceleration disc. Surprised it doesn't mention it. Remember your dicking about with the throttle here so be very careful when you rivet together...
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