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Old 15 August 2004, 21:13   #21
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Quicksilver 2-4-C PtNo 92-802859Q 1
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Old 05 May 2008, 22:35   #22
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Wouldn't it be convenient to have a look to the thermostat as well, maybe clean salt incrustations from body and housing, check to see if opens closes properly, replace if necessary. Had a terrible engine overheat with a relatively new impeller, the problem salt formation and crusts in water passages & thermostat area.

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Old 05 May 2008, 23:40   #23
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A tick to help get impellers into their housings...

Take a large worm drive band clamp and wrap it around all the blades. Don't center the clamp on the blades just barely put it on the top side. As you screw the clamp closed the impeller vanes will contract just a little smaller than the housing. Install the impeller into the housing but just shy of where the clamp will hit the plastic. Remove the clamp now and the vanes will spring into place. Push the impeller the rest of the way into the housing. Ta da.
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Old 06 May 2008, 22:17   #24
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If all impeller housings are the same and all impellers rotates clockwise as the engine does, why complicate your existence. Simply slide new impeller down through drive shaft onto lower plate, don't forget to place the locking key, grease impeller blades and impeller case, place housing through drive shaft, while pushing down on top of the blades, rotate drive shaft clockwise, will begin to slip & fit nicely under case, keep turning/pushing housing until well seated on lower plate, torque bolts as specified. Simple & easy going...

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Old 10 May 2008, 10:35   #25
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Another little tip - at least for some Yamaha outboards - put the engine in reverse before removing the leg - and be sure the gearbox remains in reverse while it's off (or at worst - put it back into reverse before reassembly). Otherwise you'll have a nightmare trying to get your gearlever working again....
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Old 10 May 2008, 19:53   #26
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I cant believe that if they have gone though all that work of getting the gearbox off to check the impeller they just don't change it as a matter of course,
Unless of course they tell porky pies
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Old 11 May 2008, 07:30   #27
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I cant believe that if they have gone though all that work of getting the gearbox off to check the impeller they just don't change it as a matter of course,
Unless of course they tell porky pies
It takes longer in some cases to change the impeller than to drop/replace the gearbox.

I agree though but I guess some don't want the £40 extra on the bill.
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Old 06 December 2008, 18:51   #28
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Sorry if this is a stupid question ~but you should know me by now!~ Do you have to take the impeller housing off to change the gear oil or is there some kind of sump plug type thing?
Thanks
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Old 06 December 2008, 18:56   #29
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Do you have to take the impeller housing off to change the gear oil or is there some kind of sump plug type thing?
Thanks
no you don't need to go near your impellor - two plugs on side of gearbox to do it (top one to let air in/out, the other to let oil in/out).
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Old 06 December 2008, 19:13   #30
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Cheers mate!
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Old 07 December 2008, 11:31   #31
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Don't know why the impeller isn't changed as a matter of course during a routine service.

If the engine has been used a lot during the season I would replace as a matter of course. On the other hand I hardly used my boat last year apart from a fortnight of solid boating and 2-3 day trips. That said I'm confident it will do another season before replacing. At the very most - I won't allow it to go past two years. Part only costs £20.
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Old 03 March 2009, 08:04   #32
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Best place to buy the impeller kit and quiksilver lubircant (preferably online)?

Thanks
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Old 03 March 2009, 08:05   #33
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sorry, forgot to subscribe
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Old 03 March 2009, 08:14   #34
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sorry again,

im about to try and do it to a 4stroke, will it be any different ?
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Old 04 March 2009, 16:47   #35
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http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_t...All-Categories

Any good?
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