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15 August 2004, 21:13
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Devon
Boat name: White Ice
Make: Ranieri
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 115hp
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,015
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Quicksilver 2-4-C PtNo 92-802859Q 1
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05 May 2008, 22:35
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#22
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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Wouldn't it be convenient to have a look to the thermostat as well, maybe clean salt incrustations from body and housing, check to see if opens closes properly, replace if necessary. Had a terrible engine overheat with a relatively new impeller, the problem salt formation and crusts in water passages & thermostat area.
Happy Boating
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05 May 2008, 23:40
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#23
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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A tick to help get impellers into their housings...
Take a large worm drive band clamp and wrap it around all the blades. Don't center the clamp on the blades just barely put it on the top side. As you screw the clamp closed the impeller vanes will contract just a little smaller than the housing. Install the impeller into the housing but just shy of where the clamp will hit the plastic. Remove the clamp now and the vanes will spring into place. Push the impeller the rest of the way into the housing. Ta da.
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06 May 2008, 22:17
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#24
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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If all impeller housings are the same and all impellers rotates clockwise as the engine does, why complicate your existence. Simply slide new impeller down through drive shaft onto lower plate, don't forget to place the locking key, grease impeller blades and impeller case, place housing through drive shaft, while pushing down on top of the blades, rotate drive shaft clockwise, will begin to slip & fit nicely under case, keep turning/pushing housing until well seated on lower plate, torque bolts as specified. Simple & easy going...
Happy Boating
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10 May 2008, 10:35
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#25
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Enfield, Co Meath
Boat name: no name
Make: Zodiac Pro
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki 115
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 120
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Another little tip - at least for some Yamaha outboards - put the engine in reverse before removing the leg - and be sure the gearbox remains in reverse while it's off (or at worst - put it back into reverse before reassembly). Otherwise you'll have a nightmare trying to get your gearlever working again....
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10 May 2008, 19:53
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: SOLD
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 794
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I cant believe that if they have gone though all that work of getting the gearbox off to check the impeller they just don't change it as a matter of course,
Unless of course they tell porky pies
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11 May 2008, 07:30
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#27
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy Smith
I cant believe that if they have gone though all that work of getting the gearbox off to check the impeller they just don't change it as a matter of course,
Unless of course they tell porky pies
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It takes longer in some cases to change the impeller than to drop/replace the gearbox.
I agree though but I guess some don't want the £40 extra on the bill.
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06 December 2008, 18:51
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Sorry if this is a stupid question ~but you should know me by now!~ Do you have to take the impeller housing off to change the gear oil or is there some kind of sump plug type thing?
Thanks
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06 December 2008, 18:56
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#29
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
Do you have to take the impeller housing off to change the gear oil or is there some kind of sump plug type thing?
Thanks
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no you don't need to go near your impellor - two plugs on side of gearbox to do it (top one to let air in/out, the other to let oil in/out).
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06 December 2008, 19:13
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Cheers mate!
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07 December 2008, 11:31
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,645
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Don't know why the impeller isn't changed as a matter of course during a routine service.
If the engine has been used a lot during the season I would replace as a matter of course. On the other hand I hardly used my boat last year apart from a fortnight of solid boating and 2-3 day trips. That said I'm confident it will do another season before replacing. At the very most - I won't allow it to go past two years. Part only costs £20.
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03 March 2009, 08:04
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#32
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Knutsford
Boat name: Red Jelly
Make: Narwhall 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: 1998 Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 71
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Best place to buy the impeller kit and quiksilver lubircant (preferably online)?
Thanks
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03 March 2009, 08:05
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#33
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Knutsford
Boat name: Red Jelly
Make: Narwhall 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: 1998 Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 71
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sorry, forgot to subscribe
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03 March 2009, 08:14
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#34
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Knutsford
Boat name: Red Jelly
Make: Narwhall 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: 1998 Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 71
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sorry again,
im about to try and do it to a 4stroke, will it be any different ?
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04 March 2009, 16:47
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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