25A 12V Power connector

Nasher · 26 August 2009, 18:07

Anyone know of an easily available 25A 12V power connector that won't cost me an arm and a leg.

Doesn't need to be waterproof, splashproof would be useful, but could make do with it not being.

Ta

Nasher.

codprawn · 26 August 2009, 19:32

For my Land Rover roof mounted spot lights I used a rubber covered 2 pin connector and socket as used on strimmers and lawn mowers etc. Don't know the rating at 12v but pretty big brass pins.

My lamps are 100w each x4 = about 33 amps and it's lasted fine - packed it with silicone grease and no sign of corrosion either!!!

http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-i...nd-Socket.html

B+Q used to sell them.

Oh about £3 - cheap enough?

codprawn · 26 August 2009, 19:46

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=1...bber&_osacat=0

Quite a few on Ebay as well. B+Q used to do black ones if you don't like orange..........

Nasher · 26 August 2009, 21:31

Thanks mate, good call.

It's to create a plug and socket in the console for the 12V pump I have to inflate the smaller Nashers SIB.

It works really well, but I have to unstrap one of the battery boxes and use the large croc clips attached to the pump on the battery terminals.

Thinking about it, I may use a std Euro(PC power) type plug and socket, then I can attach the croc clips to a short length of cable with a socket on the end so I can still use the croc clips on the car battery to blow up the camp beds.

Believe Euro Plugs and sockets are rated at 10A for 240V, so should be OK for 25A at 12V. - Que somebody to explain why not

Nasher

jyasaki · 27 August 2009, 16:28

It's going to see intermittent use, so I wouldn't be too concerned about going over the contacts' ratings.

If it were me, I would connect it and try it, and see if you get a significant temp rise at the contacts. If it's higher than what you get in the wires themselves, another option may be desirable. If not, then I would say it's fine.

jky

doggypaddle · 27 August 2009, 16:51

take a look at the earth pin, its probably bigger and can carry more current than the live and neutral pin. maybe you could parallel connect the live and neutral as one pin to carry double the rating, ie 20 amps,
and use the bigger earth pin as the other pole? just an idea.
the other thing which may be of use is the small golf buggy battery connectors, I only have 200 amp ones of forklifts but invalid carrages and golf buggys use smaller ones.

Simon B · 27 August 2009, 18:02

Have a look at Anderson connectors;

http://www.torberry.co.uk/twopole.php

A lot of recovery companies use them for jump leads

Jono · 27 August 2009, 18:06

Fill yer boots....

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...s/battconn.php

Nasher · 27 August 2009, 18:41

Thanks guys

Jono, I've used Vehicle Wiring products loads of times before when I was building bikes and had forgotten about them.

Ta

Nasher

Avocet · 27 August 2009, 20:12

I'm no electrician, but isn't the voltage irrelevant for the type of connector? It's surely the ampage which dictates the flow and, therefore, the heat generated. Obviously, the ampage will alter depending on the equipment being used and the voltage supply but is it not the case that if a connector is rated for 25A it will power equipment of 6000W at 240V, or 300W at 12V?

Erin · 27 August 2009, 22:42

I think it's the other way around actually. Its power (watts) that determines the capacity, also shown as VA for some reason sometimes. Though I think voltages is relevent in some instances where the contacts are close together and not suitably isolated for high voltage use.

Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did

Nasher · 28 August 2009, 11:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did

Had't thought of that, thanks.
I'd also better go and remove that Bleach from the kitchen that I carefully stored in an Evian bottle

I'm actually going to order battery connectors like Jono suggested from Vehicle Wiring Products, but from an ebay source that are cheaper.

Nasher

doggypaddle · 28 August 2009, 13:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

I think it's the other way around actually. Its power (watts) that determines the capacity, also shown as VA for some reason sometimes. Though I think voltages is relevent in some instances where the contacts are close together and not suitably isolated for high voltage use.

Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did

A very good point! it could be easily done!

VA is for AC circuits that are reactive. volts x amps x power factor.
Volts x amps isnt watts in AC reactive circuits due to phase shift between voltage and current. I will shut up now. its irellavant on a 12 volt circuit and very boring theory

Nasher · 04 October 2009, 19:14

In the end I purchased some 50A Anderson connectors from ebay at £1.85ea.

I decided to have a flying lead with a connector permanently wired in the console, as it could be a useful supply for other things.

Using some 50A cable, I made up the lead shown, which connects direct to one of the battery –ve terminals, and via a fuse block direct to the output from the battery selector switch.
The ‘flying’ end has a length of cord under the braiding, tied to the connector at one end and knotted at the other end. Using some heatshrink and a stainless steel clamp in front of the knot ensures any strain is taken by the cord and not the cables.

All I need to do now is add a clip to hold the loose connector when not in use. Tucking it behind the battery cables will do for now though.

I wanted to still have the option of using the pump to inflate airbeds using the car battery, so cut the cable and inserted two connectors near the crocodile clip end.

Nasher.

Observer · 05 October 2009, 12:34

I don't quite see why you've got this hidden away in the console, which I imagine is not very easily accessible? What about a flush mounted socket on the backward facing side of the console, like this.

Then. instead of having a plug for every appliance you might want to power up, make up a flying lead with the plug at one end and yellow bullet crimps (m/f for polarity) at the other end and the reciprocal on each appliance lead.

Nasher · 05 October 2009, 12:41

That plug and socket looks good, I could have done with your post several weeks ago.

However I did do a bit of research and may have rejected that one on cost.

Budget for this project was sub £10 all in, and that plug and socket is probably a lot more than that.

Thanks anyway.

Nasher.

Downhilldai · 05 October 2009, 13:45

Watch those croc clips don't come into contact with one another when your pump is plugged in.

Nasher · 05 October 2009, 13:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Watch those croc clips don't come into contact with one another when your pump is plugged in.

DHD
The croc clips won't be connected when the pump is plugged in to the boat.
In fact its impossible to do so.
They will only be attached when I want to use the pump off the car battery.

I know what you mean though, I hate jump leads.

Nasher.

Downhilldai · 05 October 2009, 14:10

Ah yes, I see now - you have a separate power source via the crocs. I thought they were running parallel on the same lead as your Anderson connectors.

Observer · 05 October 2009, 16:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

Budget for this project was sub £10 all in, and that plug and socket is probably a lot more than that.

Thanks anyway.

Yep - the plug/socket is £30-£40.