6.3 amp spade fuse

[rigi36]

I can't seem to find a 6.3 Amp spade fuse to go in an inline holder.

All I can find is these: Quick Blow Ceramic Fuse 6.3A 20mm x 5mm 6.3 Amp x 5: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by maxhar

I can't seem to find a 6.3 Amp spade fuse to go in an inline holder.

All I can find is these: Quick Blow Ceramic Fuse 6.3A 20mm x 5mm 6.3 Amp x 5: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

Spade fuse? Try Halfords

Is there a reason it has to be exactly 6.3 amps?

[rigi36]

Hi

The radio originally came with a 6.3A inline fuse.

TBH i'm thinking of just getting:

Inline fuse holder, 5 x 20mm: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Quick Blow Ceramic Fuse 6.3A 20mm x 5mm 6.3 Amp x 5: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

and 1m of Tinned thinwall:
VWP - thinwall cable

Wired straight to the dist block. Have I missed anything obvious?

[Nos4r2]

What's it going in?

[rigi36]

What do you mean? My console?

[martini]

I wouldnt use that fuse holder or that fuse.

Something like this would be much better:

In-Line Waterproof Fuse Holder - FUSH

This one takes standard blade fuses

It doesn't need to be exactly 6.3A, a 5A or even 7.5A would be fine

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by maxhar

What do you mean? My console?

Sorry, moored or trailered and how dry is it inside your console?

[rigi36]

I'd say it is quite dry inside the console. It's a trailered boat so not exposed to any really harsh weather.

Martini, I thought the point of a fuse was to protect the equipment if there was a too high current delivered. I was under the impression that anything above 6.3 amp would damage the radio.

If that's not the case then yes, your link looks a much better option. Thanks.

[martini]

Originally Posted by maxhar

Martini, I thought the point of a fuse was to protect the equipment if there was a too high current delivered. I was under the impression that anything above 6.3 amp would damage the radio.

The equipment will take whatever current it requires. If it malfunctions and creates a short circuit then you'll get excessive current, enough to melt the wires. So the fuse needs to be big enough to carry the normal current being used but small enough to blow before damage is caused to the wiring or anything else in the circuit.

ps that link was just from googling, I'm not endorsing the company. You should get everything you need from your local Halfords/Maplin etc store

[rigi36]

Ok. Thanks for that. I'm going to go for a 5 amp mini spade fuse in a waterproof holder.

Can you confirm that Tinned thinwall cable is ok to complete the circuit on the -ve side?

VWP - thinwall cable

[martini]

Originally Posted by maxhar

Ok. Thanks for that. I'm going to go for a 5 amp mini spade fuse in a waterproof holder.

Can you confirm that Tinned thinwall cable is ok to complete the circuit on the -ve side?

VWP - thinwall cable

The 1.5mm sq should be fine

Don't forget to solder all the connections and use adhesive lined heat shrink

[rigi36]

I'm going to get some japanese bullet connectors as here for the ends.

VWP - non insulated bullet & socket terminals

Thanks for the help

[martini]

Next best thing I spose - stick some vaseline in 'em before you plug them together

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by maxhar

Ok. Thanks for that. I'm going to go for a 5 amp mini spade fuse in a waterproof holder.

Check your VHF's manual, and see what the max current draw is. If it came with a 6.3A fuse, there is a chance that 5A may blow when transmitting on high power. You should probably go a step up rather than down (small chance of exceeding current rating of wiring, but if it handles 6.3A it will most likely handle 7 or 8.)

jky

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by maxhar

Martini, I thought the point of a fuse was to protect the equipment if there was a too high current delivered. I was under the impression that anything above 6.3 amp would damage the radio.

Fuse are to protect cables & circuit devices, not the connected equipment.

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Fuse are to protect cables & circuit devices, not the connected equipment.

That's my take on it too. If your equipment is drawing enough power to blow a fuse that the manufacturer supplied,it's already trashed-but you really don't want a wiring fire.

[ashbypower]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Fuse are to protect cables & circuit devices, not the connected equipment.

Oh Contrae You have never seen a connected equipment burst into flames because of a fault and over rated fuse fitted then
38 Years in the electronice industry and have seen this a hand full of times !!
Oh and a 6.3 amp fuse is a non standard Value so as has been said check total current draw on Max (25w) RF output and go for the closest value higher..

[Pikey Dave]

Fuse size is determined by current rating of cable. The fuse is there to blow (melt) before the cable does. A correctly designed circuit will withstand the potential fault current of the connected load & the fuse will blow before the circuit i.e. wiring catches fire. Thus disconnecting the faulty equipment from the supply. Electronics usually have an internal fuse or protective device e.g a thermal.
I'm sure someone will be along with the popcorn shortly

[ashbypower]

I already have the popcorn and years of experience and therfore have NO nead for explenastion however you ARE missing the point I'm affraid!!

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by ashbypower

I already have the popcorn and years of experience and therfore have NO nead for explenastion however you ARE missing the point I'm affraid!!

So are you saying that each item of electrical equipment should be supplied radially on individual fuses to suit?