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15 November 2014, 10:49
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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Adding a battery to a SIB
I've been thinking about adding a battery to my SIB, it would only be powering a small amplifier and Nav Lights at the most. I have several small 12V Sealed Lead acid batteries (I believe about 7aH) but are these suitable? My outboard has a charging circuit but would I need a rectifier between this and the battery? (It's a Yam 30DMO 1991) If so can anyone recommend something suitable? I would be using a proper waterproof battery box, proper cabling etc
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16 November 2014, 14:42
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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Would you be able to recommend a regulator? I can only find DC DC ones online and I'm assuming a need a AC DC regulator
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16 November 2014, 18:57
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,097
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First you need to know how many wires are needed? I believe most are three wire, but could easily be wrong. Most motorcycles, snowmobiles, and PWC's will use the same type and can probably be utilized. I used one from a Kawasaki motorcycle bought off of Ebay for a killer deal. If I remember correctly it was under $20. Search Ebay for a motorcycle regulator. Typically you can buy a universal regulator for around $75 US. I just had to cut the wiring ends off and find a place to bolt it on. They get very warm/hot depending on how much energy it is producing. It will also need to clear the motor cover.
Either way go and look at your motor to see what it needs, then report back. Some motors even come with the regulator installed.
Technical Article: How a Motorcycle Charging System Works - ElectroSport
You can see my regulator on the left with the cooling fins. the yellow wires are from the stator. (Picture was actually taken to show my awesome on water repair of the broken link that changes timing )
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16 November 2014, 19:43
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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I will go and check the motor out tomorrow, and then let you know!
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16 November 2014, 19:53
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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My motor does have a charging circuit in place bit I haven't found anything online to suggest that it is a DC power source, I will investigate further! I have attached two pictures just showing where the charging socket is, if anyone has the same model (30DMO 6J8) and knows please share!
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22 November 2014, 17:40
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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Had a look at the engine today, and it appears that it has a 2 phase alternator fitted (two leads from the stator) that go into what looks like a regulator rectifier (from what yours looks like) I had the engine idling today and I took a multimeter to the connections inside the black box output thingy (pictured above circled in yellow) which is connected to the regulator rectifier. The reading was about 0.5V... is this normal? Or will it go to 14V when a battery is connected?
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22 November 2014, 20:11
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,097
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It should produce something but may require a battery to energize the circuit first. There is one way to tell. Hook up a battery and measure voltage with it off and running. If it goes up towards 14 volts it is charging.
Does your boat motor have a starter motor?
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22 November 2014, 20:19
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton
Boat name: Warrior
Make: Wetline
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 30HP Autolube
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 116
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The engine is pull start, hence no need for a huge deep cycle battery I will perhaps dig a battery out tomorrow and test it :-)
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29 November 2014, 13:21
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Or get a regulator / rectifier off another outboard.
My Merc has a Honda one as I was toasting batteries with monotonous regularity as the Merc one just rectified....
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29 November 2014, 18:49
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
Or get a regulator / rectifier off another outboard.
My Merc has a Honda one as I was toasting batteries with monotonous regularity as the Merc one just rectified....
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Sure looks like a regulator to me as it has cooling fins. From what I have seen, most rectifiers only are smaller and round with no cooling capabilities as they are not regulating and therefore do not get as hot.
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22 January 2015, 11:16
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#12
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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FYI: Any outboard with a charging circuit should not be Started unless a battery's connected as no-battery hooked up usually means an immediate short in the regulator.
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11 March 2015, 14:30
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hornsea
Boat name: no name
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightfisher
FYI: Any outboard with a charging circuit should not be Started unless a battery's connected as no-battery hooked up usually means an immediate short in the regulator.
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Hi all, I am new to this forum and have just purchased a Honda BF15, manual start outboard, my first motor with a charging circuit.
The above comment has confused me, as my motor has a 12v charging circuit option. I have spoken to my dealer and they have said that no battery needs to be connected to run the engine safely, it is an option, however if a battery is connected ,the manual states not to disconnect a fitted battery cable with the engine running. The Honda manual states that the battery is an optional extra not a required item.
So am I right in understanding, that if I wish to connect a battery for accessories such as lights fishfinder etc, I can charge the battery from the dc output on the motor. However if don't have a battery connected then no harm will come to my motor providing I don't have the cables connected ?
I ve also read that Honda use a unique regulator sensor that only switches on the 12v output from the motor when a slight load is detected ? So I guess with no cables connected the output would be inactive ?
Regards,
DAVE.
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11 March 2015, 15:15
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Jellyworm,
I had the BF20, I ran it for 2 years without a battery connected, never missed a beat, I did subsequently attach a battery and used the electric start, all ok.
To stop any short circuits I got a small block of wood, and screwed the Pos and neg terminal leads and screwed each lead seperately into it.
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11 March 2015, 15:27
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hornsea
Boat name: no name
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 14
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Cheers for that, mine is manual start and I'm just considering whether to rig up a battery to the charging circuit for a couple of accessories, fishfinder, radio and gps. I might just use a standalone battery that I charge off boat.
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11 March 2015, 16:12
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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That sounds good, you shouldn't get any problems, make sure the battery it in a battery box
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10 April 2015, 07:39
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#17
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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Trying to understand if you have a charging cirquit you must also already have the battery leads, don't U? If so, hook it up (any 12 volt auto/marine battery) start it electrically w/a dc volt meter connected at the batter..it should read between 13.4-13.8 volts dc when running. I don't see why you would need a regulator at all?
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