Any Way to Identify Transducer? (if you can't find markings)

[ncp]

I've been looking at electronics packages and just realized that there's a transducer installed already in the hull (Willard 7m). If this thing worked, it would save me some time/effort/$$$.

Any way to tell model, brand or whether it will work if I just plug it into a new(er) system? Do transducers usually go bad? Can anyone tell me whether the 3 pins on the connector are pretty standard for number of leads from a transducer?

It's located in a very awkward place between my rear hatch and the engine...

Thanks!

[jyasaki]

Is it epoxied in or siliconed? If the latter, it may be worth pulling it out to get the connections set up and tested.

Poke around on the airmar website, and you'll find that there are a nearly infinite number of connections from a single ducer (depending on model and capabilities); but likely the three connections will be signal+, signal-, and gnd. Assuming you can figure out your depthfinders pinout, you may be able to reuse the existing transducer (has to matcth the expected freq, I think, and be pretty close in expected power output. But I'm not sure on these.)

Airmar pinouts are here:
Airmar Marine Wiring Diagrams

Luck;

jky

[ncp]

I'm guessing epoxy but I'll tug on it. Unfortunately, it's going to take a LOT of contorting to get in there...it's in a very tough spot. Or, at the very least, I'll wiggle myself in there, vacuum/soak up the standing water and see if there are any markings.

Good to know that 3 pins are enough! ...I'm a bit worried that it's pretty old and I don't quite know how NMEA 0183, NMEA 2000, etc. affect how these units "talk" to each other...

I'd like to figure it out somehow so that I don't go order something online, wait for it to arrive, , hook it up, launch the boat, test it, figure out it's wrong...and then start all over!

I'll checkout airmar next.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Is it epoxied in or siliconed? If the latter, it may be worth pulling it out to get the connections set up and tested.

Poke around on the airmar website, and you'll find that there are a nearly infinite number of connections from a single ducer (depending on model and capabilities); but likely the three connections will be signal+, signal-, and gnd. Assuming you can figure out your depthfinders pinout, you may be able to reuse the existing transducer (has to matcth the expected freq, I think, and be pretty close in expected power output. But I'm not sure on these.)

Airmar pinouts are here:
Airmar Marine Wiring Diagrams

Luck;

jky

[ncp]

Wow, there were a lot to look through...

I'm thinking it's a Garmin 6 pin connector and, correctly, I have leads in holes 4/5/6 which correspond to :

Garmin 6 Pin Female Connector 91_848:
http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo...ams/91_848.pdf
But, it says "Icom, Interphase" at the bottom

(4) + depth
(5) - depth
(6) temp

But there's also this one:
http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo...ams/91_840.pdf

(4) + depth
(5) - depth
(6) temp

Thanks, at least this gives me a staring point.

[ncp]

So, I could possibly change brands away from Garmin if I rewired the the end to the correct plug? (and the frequencies are close)

I'm currently in the market for a GPS/Sounder combo but want to make sure it's upgradable to radar...cheapest current Garmin is the 720s/740s at $1,200. Something like a Lowrance HDS-5 is only $600 and can take radar. Everything I've ready says bigger is better on screen size and spend the max money up front instead of wishing for more later.

[jyasaki]

Sounds about right.

AFAIK, pretty much all manufacturers are sourcing their transducers from just a couple of companies (at least, that's what I've heard), so yes, mixing and matching is possible (though this is theoretical; I've never done it.)

Personally, I think if I were in your shoes, I'd go with something like a Lowrance HDS-7 ($1K), the broadband radar ($1.3K), and perhaps the Structure scan unit ($600, if you're diving or fishing.) I'm sure Garmin has a similar setup if you want to go with them.

Transducers are cheap enough ($100 or so) that all the hassle of ID'ing and converting the existing one is probably not worth it. Leave it there, and glue the new one in next to it.

FYI, here's a quick rundown on the NMEA standards:
BOE Marine Buyers Guide


jky