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26 February 2011, 22:53
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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Anyone used BEP Switch Panels
I´m looking for a switch panel for my rib rather than a series of cheap toggle switches.
It will be for nav lights, etc
I´ve seen this http://www.power-store.com/view-item...d=1016&id=172&
Are these any good?
Thanks
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26 February 2011, 22:55
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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..Also does anyone know where I can find one without paying over 7 quid postage!
Thanks
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27 February 2011, 09:27
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver 1
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Its just a series of cheap toggle switches set in a panel for 33 quid, I'd rather make my own and buy the switches and labels for a lot less.
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27 February 2011, 11:42
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#4
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Must be for a Verado as there's even a switch for the supercharger bottom right
I just had matching rocker switches fitted on mine with the labels on the switch.
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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27 February 2011, 11:43
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini
Its just a series of cheap toggle switches set in a panel for 33 quid, I'd rather make my own and buy the switches and labels for a lot less.
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Me too.
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27 February 2011, 17:42
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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OK thanks for the advice. Back to my orginal plan with the toggle switches then!
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27 February 2011, 17:50
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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You can get Carling rocker switches (which are very nice) for around £4 each and they make a modular mounting panel system which will accommodate any number of switches you care to use for a few quid.
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27 February 2011, 18:24
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
You can get Carling rocker switches (which are very nice) for around £4 each and they make a modular mounting panel system which will accommodate any number of switches you care to use for a few quid.
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I've got 'em on 'Hey Joe' (DHD's reccomend ) They are a proper job.
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27 February 2011, 18:44
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini
Its just a series of cheap toggle switches set in a panel for 33 quid, I'd rather make my own and buy the switches and labels for a lot less.
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Got to say I was thinking the same thing....
some ideas here...
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ches/lever.php
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27 February 2011, 18:58
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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just had a look at them toggle switch's, you must be out of your mind to even think about putting them on a boat
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27 February 2011, 19:36
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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I was only referring to the rubber booted ones and they are only splashproof, same as the original BEP panel, just alot cheaper....
As DHD said Carling are hard to beat and available in a similar configuration, but obviously alot dearer.
http://aquafax.co.uk/html/product_details.asp?ID=10194
Or buy individual carling switches, as many as required of the type needed (off-on, momentary etc) and then get the bezels and legends to suit. I reckon it may still be cheaper than the BEP...
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27 February 2011, 19:53
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: New Milton
Boat name: Jianna
Make: Osprey
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 E-TEC
MMSI: 235076954
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,940
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Electrics and sea water!!
IP 56 = ingress protection first number (5) = protected against dust ingress, some ingress permitted. Second number (6) = protected against strong jets of water, limited ingress permitted. Limited salt water ingress onto electrical contacts not for me!
Agree with Biff.
No experience of Carling switches, I've used Blue Sea which have proved reliable. Blue Sea weather deck switch panels IP67 rated, proof to temporary immersion - as needed on a RIB console (ie no ingress permitted) ~ £100 (money well spent in my book).
Ian
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Ian
Dust creation specialist
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27 February 2011, 19:58
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian M
IP 56 = ingress protection first number (5) = protected against dust ingress, some ingress permitted. Second number (6) = protected against strong jets of water, limited ingress permitted. Limited salt water ingress onto electrical contacts not for me!
Agree with Biff.
For example, Blue Sea weather deck switch panels IP67 rated, proof to temporary immersion - nothing gets in! ~ £100 (money well spent in my book).
Ian
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Agreed, but you should have seen the state of some of the IP68 control gear I used to replace in a factory I worked in, they didn't factor in the cleaning crew that's for sure!!
As a spark by trade I'm also with you but not all boats get used in all weathers so you pay your money and you takes your choice...
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27 February 2011, 21:05
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
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Interestingly, Blue Sea use Carling switches on their Weatherdeck panels with basically the same rubber boot over and rate it at IP67
Personally I think if my switch panel can take being blasted with a jet of water with only "limited ingress", then a bit of spray from the bow is unlikely to cause instant death of my electrics.
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27 February 2011, 21:49
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: New Milton
Boat name: Jianna
Make: Osprey
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 E-TEC
MMSI: 235076954
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,940
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IP Rating
Sorry should have made the definition clearer - what the IP rating refers to are test conditions. These test conditions and test durations will be carefully defined. So the pass criteria for the test is a small amount of dust or water (which ever is being tested at the time) to get past the protection. This is the test conditions, and does not define the extent of ingress when taking loads of green water over the console every day of the week.
Often refer to these as part of the day job. Just getting the anorak now
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Ian
Dust creation specialist
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28 February 2011, 08:40
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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when something fails on a boat i like to take the bit to pieces to see why it failed, the toggle switches, if you can get them undone from the panel are made of ali, brass and steel, problay the worst combination you could have in a salt water world, this may be of interest, the trim switch on a controller handle, sometimes they go slightly loose and notchy, well the switch bit is fine but the spring under the rocker isn't, it's a 50 quid switch that fails for a little spring like the ones they use in ballpoint pens or small brushes from electric drills
you can buy carling's and swop the rockers about, they just pull off so you can change the faces
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28 February 2011, 09:36
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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The Carlings you all refer to are known as V series, but they also make an excellent toggle as well. I've had a few failures with the V series, but I've never had one of their toggles (with a rubber cover) let me down.
Don't buy "v" series from Cquip though, they're cheap chinese copies, although the modular bases that they sell are fine.
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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