Batteries

[Nasher]

Talk to me about batteries.

I need two new batteries for my Rib.

The 225 Optimax apparently requires a 1000MCA (@770CCA) battery to start it, and at this point I could if required swap out the two separate battery boxes for larger, smaller, or oddly shaped ones.

I don’t need a specific ‘house’ leisure battery as I don’t have any power use when the engine isn’t running.
I do often turn the Nav gear on before launching and starting the engine to start Satellite acquisition, but that’s about it.
So two Starter Batteries gives me cranking power and redundancy protection if one ends up flat.

It suits me to run a very simple battery management system/regime using an Off/1/2/Both selector switch.
I select Batt 1 to start the engine for a trip out, then Batt 2 for the return trip.
That way both get used and recharged.

In the past I’ve always just used car batteries, often from Halfords, and pick what they have in stock with a larger CCA that will fit the box.
I then completely disconnect them before a winter layup and hope for the best come Spring.

The above has worked very well for Years and Years, I’ve always got at least 4 or 5 years from a battery, which I’m not going to complain about.
I’ve never had to remove batteries from the boat to charge them or indeed use any form of charging apart from running the engine in normal use.

But of course there is so much new battery technology I ought to consider it, even old hat now AGM, although that new tech normally comes at a cost.

Anyone got any real gems of recommendations without just splashing out silly amounts of money for the sake of it?

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Talk to me about batteries.



I need two new batteries for my Rib.



The 225 Optimax apparently requires a 1000MCA (@770CCA) battery to start it, and at this point I could if required swap out the two separate battery boxes for larger, smaller, or oddly shaped ones.



I don’t need a specific ‘house’ leisure battery as I don’t have any power use when the engine isn’t running.

I do often turn the Nav gear on before launching and starting the engine to start Satellite acquisition, but that’s about it.

So two Starter Batteries gives me cranking power and redundancy protection if one ends up flat.



It suits me to run a very simple battery management system/regime using an Off/1/2/Both selector switch.

I select Batt 1 to start the engine for a trip out, then Batt 2 for the return trip.

That way both get used and recharged.



In the past I’ve always just used car batteries, often from Halfords, and pick what they have in stock with a larger CCA that will fit the box.

I then completely disconnect them before a winter layup and hope for the best come Spring.



The above has worked very well for Years and Years, I’ve always got at least 4 or 5 years from a battery, which I’m not going to complain about.

I’ve never had to remove batteries from the boat to charge them or indeed use any form of charging apart from running the engine in normal use.



But of course there is so much new battery technology I ought to consider it, even old hat now AGM, although that new tech normally comes at a cost.



Anyone got any real gems of recommendations without just splashing out silly amounts of money for the sake of it?

Stick to your current set up, works for me too

[Matt]

I agree. I remember when the 200xs motors came out, a few people tried messing around with battery setups to reduce weight on their race boats and it wasn't always successful; the motor would sometimes not start (despite apparently cranking fast) or go into guardian mode. So a a good, strong, "normal" battery is the way to go IMVHO.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Talk to me about batteries.



I need two new batteries for my Rib.



The 225 Optimax apparently requires a 1000MCA (@770CCA) battery to start it, and at this point I could if required swap out the two separate battery boxes for larger, smaller, or oddly shaped ones.



I don’t need a specific ‘house’ leisure battery as I don’t have any power use when the engine isn’t running.

I do often turn the Nav gear on before launching and starting the engine to start Satellite acquisition, but that’s about it.

So two Starter Batteries gives me cranking power and redundancy protection if one ends up flat.



It suits me to run a very simple battery management system/regime using an Off/1/2/Both selector switch.

I select Batt 1 to start the engine for a trip out, then Batt 2 for the return trip.

That way both get used and recharged.



In the past I’ve always just used car batteries, often from Halfords, and pick what they have in stock with a larger CCA that will fit the box.

I then completely disconnect them before a winter layup and hope for the best come Spring.



The above has worked very well for Years and Years, I’ve always got at least 4 or 5 years from a battery, which I’m not going to complain about.

I’ve never had to remove batteries from the boat to charge them or indeed use any form of charging apart from running the engine in normal use.



But of course there is so much new battery technology I ought to consider it, even old hat now AGM, although that new tech normally comes at a cost.



Anyone got any real gems of recommendations without just splashing out silly amounts of money for the sake of it?

I might be tempted to stick a VSR between them, then if you forget to change over, they both get a charge.

[Peter_C]

I would not use an old skool full flood battery anymore. AGM's carry way more power and the cost for upgrade is minimal. They also last longer which offsets cost.

When I had multiple batteries it was rigged up with an isolator/combiner from Hellroaring for completely automatic charging and separation. Disconnect the batteries if storing for long periods time.

[telecast]

Sorry to butt in but is the charge rate for AGM’s the same as for old skool batteries?

I have been wondering about making the change but mostly because of how much the boat would tip if left in a drying harbour.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by telecast

Sorry to butt in but is the charge rate for AGM’s the same as for old skool batteries?

I have been wondering about making the change but mostly because of how much the boat would tip if left in a drying harbour.

AGM requires a higher absorption voltage than a flooded cell to ensure 100% charge. Not a problem for a modern charging system, but not advisable to mix battery types. Otherwise you risk overcharging one & undercharging the other. If you have a single battery, no problem which type you choose. If you have multiple batteries, it’s strongly advised to have the same type.

[Peter_C]

AGM's do not like a high voltage. 13.7-14.3v is good for both flooded cells and AGM's. Anything over 15 volts will cook an AGM and shorten the life substantially. The only time voltage is a problem is when a voltage regulator is crappy. AGM's will take over double the amperage though while charging, and per size carry a higher Ah rating.

Personally I have been done with wet cell batteries for over a decade.

[Nasher]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'm partial to simple old technology, but always open to be persuaded that newer tech will serve me better.

One big thing that this thread has made me think about is how 'modern' the charging output from my 2005 Opti 225 is, and if it's even compatible with say AGM technology.
One thing I'll have to do is have a look at the specs etc and work out if I want to risk it.

To me a 2005 Opti is a big leap tech wise from anything I've had before, but is of course quite old tech now to everyone else.

[Matt]

Yeah, the opti has what is pretty much a conventional alternator with bridge rectifiers and regulators - it'll be fine. I ran my old (2006) 200xs on an AGM battery. Bit of a waste of money, but it did the job just fine.

[neil.mccrirrick]

If it helps I’m running an optima blue top starting battery with a 1100amh leasuire battery as house with a blue sea converter to control voltage and charging.

Been on the boat 5 years plus now no problems

Boat is on a pontoon 8 months of the year.

[neil.mccrirrick]

Optimax 2001 225hp

[fastasfox]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Talk to me about batteries.

I need two new batteries for my Rib.

The 225 Optimax apparently requires a 1000MCA (@770CCA) battery to start it, and at this point I could if required swap out the two separate battery boxes for larger, smaller, or oddly shaped ones.

I don’t need a specific ‘house’ leisure battery as I don’t have any power use when the engine isn’t running.
I do often turn the Nav gear on before launching and starting the engine to start Satellite acquisition, but that’s about it.
So two Starter Batteries gives me cranking power and redundancy protection if one ends up flat.

It suits me to run a very simple battery management system/regime using an Off/1/2/Both selector switch.
I select Batt 1 to start the engine for a trip out, then Batt 2 for the return trip.
That way both get used and recharged.

In the past I’ve always just used car batteries, often from Halfords, and pick what they have in stock with a larger CCA that will fit the box.
I then completely disconnect them before a winter layup and hope for the best come Spring.

The above has worked very well for Years and Years, I’ve always got at least 4 or 5 years from a battery, which I’m not going to complain about.
I’ve never had to remove batteries from the boat to charge them or indeed use any form of charging apart from running the engine in normal use.

But of course there is so much new battery technology I ought to consider it, even old hat now AGM, although that new tech normally comes at a cost.

Anyone got any real gems of recommendations without just splashing out silly amounts of money for the sake of it?

Just with regard to switching from one battery to another, I was wondering why you couldn't wire the pair in parrel and as such both batteries would charge and discharge at the same rate?

I run a solo optimax but I'm only running a 75hp and have just the plotter vhf. I do carry an 18v drill battery that will crank the motor...just a one hit kind of a deal...after that the pull cord and then my trustee 3hp Johnson.

[Peter_C]

Originally Posted by fastasfox

Just with regard to switching from one battery to another, I was wondering why you couldn't wire the pair in parrel and as such both batteries would charge and discharge at the same rate?

If one battery fails, could be a short circuit, it will kill both batteries and you can no longer start the boat. Another scenario is if you accidently leave a load on like a VHF for a week it will kill both batteries instead of just one. Isolating them leaves you with hopefully one good working battery. If the bilge pump is critical that changes everything and requires a low voltage switching device to utilize both batteries.

Originally Posted by fastasfox

I do carry an 18v drill battery that will crank the motor..

Please explain your setup and if you have tested this? Like do you have a voltage regulator, as in voltage converter? I have never seen a converter designed to flow 200amps. Did you install a battery adapter to connect the battery to the boat?

I always figured I can pull start my BF75 as I have pull started a 2 stroke Yamaha 90HP before. Probably should test that theory. A mostly unused pull cord is a pretty reliable starting device.

[fastasfox]

Originally Posted by Peter_C

If one battery fails, could be a short circuit, it will kill both batteries and you can no longer start the boat. Another scenario is if you accidently leave a load on like a VHF for a week it will kill both batteries instead of just one. Isolating them leaves you with hopefully one good working battery. If the bilge pump is critical that changes everything and requires a low voltage switching device to utilize both batteries.

Please explain your setup and if you have tested this? Like do you have a voltage regulator, as in voltage converter? I have never seen a converter designed to flow 200amps. Did you install a battery adapter to connect the battery to the boat?

I always figured I can pull start my BF75 as I have pull started a 2 stroke Yamaha 90HP before. Probably should test that theory. A mostly unused pull cord is a pretty reliable starting device.

There is no set up, just a regular 18v drill battery and two bits of wire. I have two bits of wire from an old motorbike loom, with a couple of spade connectors on one end and a couple of Croc clips on the other. It's like jumping your car and you can jump your car with a drill battery.
Like I stated It's a one hit kind of a deal to be used in an emergency.
I clip the Croc clips onto the starter solenoid and slide the spade connector into the drill battery terminals.
I would love to have a second backup battery but I just don't have room with my setup in the console.

So the 18v drill battery goes into my toolbox with all the other little bits n bobs, you can also use the same two bits of wire to bridge the terminals if your trim packs up....( I once got stuck in Mevagissey harbour because I couldn't trim down).....you live and learn I guess.

Ps have you ever tried to pull start your outboard? I imagine it's difficult.

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick

If it helps I’m running an optima blue top starting battery with a 1100amh leasuire battery as house with a blue sea converter to control voltage and charging.

Been on the boat 5 years plus now no problems

Boat is on a pontoon 8 months of the year.

Thanks Neil.

The Optima Blue top appears to be a good battery, classed as Duel purpose starting and Leisure. And there are lots of great reviews around,
I'm assuming your need for a Leisure type battery stems from the boat being on a Pontoon, probably with an Auto Bilge Pump running.

My boat lives on it's trailer, covered, and with the transom bung removed, so there is no need for an Auto Bilge Pump.

After a bit of research, and my Starting power focus, I settled on the Optima Red top, and have purchased a couple.

[neil.mccrirrick]

Leisure battery runs everything bar start plus trim and tilt.

The blue sea box provides a facility to link both batteries to help start if the start battery fails or is low on power.

I’ve only ever needed that once when it got very cold and I hadn’t started the engine in a month

Good to have the option of what is essentially a spare battery accessed by the turn of the knob imho [emoji106]

[maxg]

definitely keep two batteries that are manually switchable. I do and over a stormy weekend the bilge pump was working over-time on one battery, but still had a good battery to start the engine.

[Iankristy]

Originally Posted by maxg

definitely keep two batteries that are manually switchable. I do and over a stormy weekend the bilge pump was working over-time on one battery, but still had a good battery to start the engine.

Yep, arrived at boat yesterday and a faulty bilge float switch had drained main battery, flick to second battery and off [emoji847]

[Peter_C]

Originally Posted by Iankristy

Yep, arrived at boat yesterday and a faulty bilge float switch had drained main battery, flick to second battery and off [emoji847]

Might be good to install a bilge pump switch that doesn't fail. Those flappy things are garbage.