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03 January 2013, 17:41
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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I think so! !
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03 January 2013, 18:12
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPR
this is what I was told from zodiac - if on mooring leave back bungs open and it will reach its own level- I got fed up with wet feet ! do fitted bilge pump and carry jump start pack.
S.
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Yes I'll do that in the 3m sib I use as a tender as many do but never tried it with the rib. Has anyone? interesting concept. I always carry bat pack as you never know when you go out to rib there could have been bat failure or a hell of a rain!!
Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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03 January 2013, 21:29
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A1an
I have 3 of the cTek chargers, I use them for the argocats and Polaris, I've got a plug mounted on the dash so that you can just unplug the charger and go. Really easy to use
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Do you have a rcd fitted on your boat
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03 January 2013, 21:49
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Twin 50 Mariners
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jambo
Yes I'll do that in the 3m sib I use as a tender as many do but never tried it with the rib. Has anyone? interesting concept. I always carry bat pack as you never know when you go out to rib there could have been bat failure or a hell of a rain!!
Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
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Not quite the same but when my elephant trunk developed a split while on a choppy mooring the "own level" the boat found was with the water pretty much up to the top of the rear tubes! Battery compartment under aft jockey flooded, fuses rotted, etc. She's twin engined so heavy at the back, but generally, apply the idea with caution I'd say...
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03 January 2013, 21:54
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Winchester
Boat name: The Rubber Duck
Make: Avon 3.10
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 703
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I use these;
Autocare 12v TMX461 Battery Charger High Frequency Maintenance
I have two, one for the boat clipped on with crocodile clips and one wired in to my Defender with a waterproof plug & socket on the drivers foot step.
Don't know much about these Cetek ones, but my two seem fine.
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03 January 2013, 22:10
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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How do you protect your charger from the 220volts .do they still have 3 pin plug or are they hard wired?
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03 January 2013, 22:24
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Winchester
Boat name: The Rubber Duck
Make: Avon 3.10
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 703
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Yes, when new it has a 3 pin 240v plug on one end and crocodile clips on the other, that's how I use the one on the rib, its quick and easy to remove and go.
My landrover has its battery hidden under the passengers seat and is a pain to get at every time I use it (which is not very often, hence the need for the charger), so I have fitted a marine quality socket to the side and plug the charger in to this.
I have worried about a fire, my wiring on my car has another fuse in it, and neither the cables or the charger get anything like warm.
As time goes by I get more and more confident, hope its ok, there is alot of fuel in there...
Ribtecer
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03 January 2013, 22:37
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
Do you have a rcd fitted on your boat
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Sorry, I didn't explain myself very well, the plug on the dash is for the charge side of the charger, it is to save having to use crocodile clips.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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03 January 2013, 22:47
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A1an
Sorry, I didn't explain myself very well, the plug on the dash is for the charge side of the charger, it is to save having to use crocodile clips.
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Now I'm with you (i think)that makes sence,i was just worried about your charge being pluged into a marina's dodgey electric's.(not all marina's have dodgey electric's).some people do crazy things.
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04 January 2013, 07:42
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Portsmouth
Boat name: Cinsirrah III
Make: Oceans
Length: 8m +
Engine: Twin D3 160 Diesels
MMSI: 235089712
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 462
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I have both ctek and optimate 4 charger/conditioners and suggest the optimate to be superior. I have two of each and you can buy spare harnesses. I have fitted to all our farm vehicles and my Rib with twin batteries I leave the optimate on 24/7 and batteries are always 100%. Optimate can be found for around £50 as can the ctek. Hope this helps. As for shore power am just about to add to a new RIB.
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04 January 2013, 07:48
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Portsmouth
Boat name: Cinsirrah III
Make: Oceans
Length: 8m +
Engine: Twin D3 160 Diesels
MMSI: 235089712
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 462
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