Battery specs - Page 4

gotchiguy · 26 September 2012, 14:25

Can't seem to find an online stockist for the Blue sea box?

martini · 26 September 2012, 15:23

Aquafax are uk importers so any of their dealers should have them.

I got all mine from the USA

Sent from my portable speaking device using Rib.net

bedajim · 26 September 2012, 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

Can't seem to find an online stockist for the Blue sea box?

JG Technologies Dealer Specialist Marine Electronics

gotchiguy · 26 September 2012, 22:18

Blue sea fuse box and aux charging harness on their way. How about this for MkII wiring?

Erin · 26 September 2012, 22:34

I think I'd rearrange the switch for the house batt, so that when you switch it off it is neither connected to the nav electronics or the aux charging circuit. You want some way to totally isolate the battery from all connections (except bilge) in case it has some kind of serious failure that would risk damaging anything it is connected to. In essence, put the switch into the aux charging line and connected the supply to the bluesea panel from the engine side of said switch.

Nightfisher · 06 November 2012, 07:46

Nifty Schematic. Curious to know your reason for wiring the Ignition Switch through the House Batt v. the Start Batt?

I believe I would have used the same Start Batt for the Ignition Switch, since you have an emergency parallel connect to both batts.

gotchiguy · 06 November 2012, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nightfisher

Nifty Schematic. Curious to know your reason for wiring the Ignition Switch through the House Batt v. the Start Batt?

I believe I would have used the same Start Batt for the Ignition Switch, since you have an emergency parallel connect to both batts.

That has actually been changed to as you suggest!

One hurdle we have found is that of the NMEA 2000 network. As it stands at the moment, it is powered up only when the ignition is turned on, this means instruments etc come on at that time. However, all the new stuff we are adding is going to be on NMEA2000 network so it needs to be powered all the time. The answer as Chris suggests above is a multi engine power cable so that the network is powered on when the ignition is turned on (so you can run engine with instruments but with no electronics battery on, or the other way round.

I will post the final wiring diagram when I finally find it!

Erin · 06 November 2012, 12:34

I think you've got to decide whether you want to have your second battery dedicated as a 'house' battery or just there in reserve if your primary battery fails. If it is the latter, then I wouldn't get too carried away with complicated circuits and just carry some jump leads in case it is ever required to start the engine. If it is the former, then the start battery should only power the engine starting and not supply any juice to any electornics whatsoever. Your nmea etc should be run from the house batt.

gotchiguy · 06 November 2012, 13:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

I think you've got to decide whether you want to have your second battery dedicated as a 'house' battery or just there in reserve if your primary battery fails. If it is the latter, then I wouldn't get too carried away with complicated circuits and just carry some jump leads in case it is ever required to start the engine. If it is the former, then the start battery should only power the engine starting and not supply any juice to any electornics whatsoever. Your nmea etc should be run from the house batt.

The second battery is to be a dedicated house battery, not just lugged around for the sake of it. The final wiring diagram is attached.

With the new system, NMEA2000 becomes very important that it is powered on the whole time, because it will be necessary for DSC, AIS, GPS, transducer etc all the time whereas in the old system it did not. However, the engine instruments are also powered from NMEA 2000 so cannot be run separately with a set up where NMEA power just comes from the house battery. Ie. you couldnt run the engine with instruments but no other electrics. The multi power input cable sorts that problem.

The NMEA2k will usually be powered from the house battery because that will be turned on first, then all the engine instruments will be working fine no problem. If however you wanted engine + instruments but no electronics, you simply fire up the engine and the NMEA gets power from the engine (not from the starting battery) although that is semantics really.

NMEA2k network diagram also attached, however missing AIS and memory module. Shows how important it will be that it is always powered on.

Erin · 06 November 2012, 14:23

You've confused me

. You need to be careful that you don't have two sources of power available to your nmea network otherwise, if you forget to turn one of the switches on/off then there is a risk you might start charging one of your batteries via the nmea backbone which would not be good. You could I suppose have two separate backbones, each powered independantly and just have the data wires connected between the two. This would allow you to have an engine backbone for gauges and a navigation backbone for nav electronics. They could share data but not the power sources.

gotchiguy · 06 November 2012, 14:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

You've confused me

. You need to be careful that you don't have two sources of power available to your nmea network otherwise, if you forget to turn one of the switches on/off then there is a risk you might start charging one of your batteries via the nmea backbone which would not be good. You could I suppose have two separate backbones, each powered independantly and just have the data wires connected between the two. This would allow you to have an engine backbone for gauges and a navigation backbone for nav electronics. They could share data but not the power sources.

Yes, yes, if you had a Suzuki you could do that. Alternatively, as explained above by Chris and then by me, get a multi engine NMEA2000 power cable, no switches involved!

NMEA 2000 question. - Owners Message Board

Erin · 06 November 2012, 15:14

Alright smartarse!

gotchiguy · 06 November 2012, 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

Alright smartarse!

I just find it frustrating when some people are so backwards in technology, like fourstrokes for instance...

gotchiguy · 06 November 2012, 15:34

Back to the original subject however: Would two d31m Optimas be the best bet?

Or one dedicated starting optima 34m and one deep cycle gel battery such as the Lucas 120Ah?

Erin · 06 November 2012, 18:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

, like fourstrokes for instance...

Yeah, but at least they don't crack transoms or break down near Cherbourg

Chris · 06 November 2012, 21:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

Yeah, but at least they don't crack transoms or break down near Cherbourg

I don't think the engine broke the transom it was the nobber with his hand on the throttle that did that.

martini · 06 November 2012, 23:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

Back to the original subject however: Would two d31m Optimas be the best bet?

Or one dedicated starting optima 34m and one deep cycle gel battery such as the Lucas 120Ah?

Forget about deep cycle, gel, maintenance free, marine, etc etc, its all marketing bollix.

Cheap lead acid like what's been around since world war 1 will be fine for a few years then get a new pair. The rest is a lot more money for very little performance improvement.

gotchiguy · 09 April 2013, 16:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

Yeah, but at least they don't crack transoms or break down near Cherbourg

Just discovered the reason why it broke down in Cherbourg.

Anyone with a factory-rigged Osprey please check your oil pipes!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by martini

Forget about deep cycle, gel, maintenance free, marine, etc etc, its all marketing bollix.

Cheap lead acid like what's been around since world war 1 will be fine for a few years then get a new pair. The rest is a lot more money for very little performance improvement.

Apparently the Optimas can't cope with the 55amp output from the etec... they're ok for other brands but etec just puts out too much current.... so we have been advised to go with another brand (not too sure what yet). Although hang on...we're splitting the current to two batteries so perhaps it wouldn't be an issue at all..

chris.moody · 09 April 2013, 16:55

Posted in error in wrong thread

please ignore me.

gotchiguy · 09 April 2013, 17:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris.moody

I bought two of these and it works great as either a leisure battery, or starter battery (and it's cranking a big inboard diesel with no glow plugs).

http://www.tayna.co.uk/Leisure-Battery-Powerline-110-CaravanLeisureMarine-Battery-P7714.html

No connection with Tayna other than being a satisfied customer.

Hmm. Doesn't seem to give a CCA rating on the site

Swiss cheese all filled in...