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02 May 2012, 20:06
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Orkney
Boat name: Skylark
Make: Bombard 500
Length: 5m +
Engine: 60hp Yamaha outboard
MMSI: 235091893
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 416
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Bilge pump on transom advice please
Hi there
Any recommendations please for the best make, setup, or pitfalls for putting a bilge pump on the transom of my Bombard 5m RIB to avoid having to remove and replace the bungs to drain manually when running?
For example:
Best makes of pump?
Mounting?
Fully auto, separate float switch, or wholly manual on/off switch?
Happy for any suppliers to PM me too.
Many thanks
Steve
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02 May 2012, 20:18
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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A 1000gph Rule pump minus the water sensing periodic spin feature
electronic float switch with manual override
mounted on the floor
smooth bore hose over the transom
Although honestly you may want to consider adding an elephant trunk instead, handles way more water than a bilge pump ever could.
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03 May 2012, 09:03
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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..and make sure the pipe outlet doesn't dump the water straight into your elephant trunk!
I've got to second Captain Jack on the trunk. Trunks also have the advantage of not needing a working battery, switch, sensor......
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03 May 2012, 09:22
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Orkney
Boat name: Skylark
Make: Bombard 500
Length: 5m +
Engine: 60hp Yamaha outboard
MMSI: 235091893
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 416
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Hello
Thanks for the comments.
I can quite understand the suggestions about the trunk, but - unless I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting - I'm after a way of removing a relatively modest amount of splash over water without having to leave - or reach back from - the helm in the middle of the boat. This is especially so when planing single handed; I feel it safer to keep looking forward.
There are already two large bungs that will empty the water when at speed if removed, I'm just after avoiding turning around to fiddle with them.
The water removal is not critical as there is the manual option, so a lack of electrical power, while not great, is not really of a concern for the pump.
And for around £50, a pump system seems an affordable "luxury" :o) Or maybe people find they are more trouble than they are worth?
So any more specific suggestions on the pump type, fitting etc very welcome.
As ever many thanks for your help
Best wishes
Steve
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03 May 2012, 10:07
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Agreed you need trunks to remove water in a hurry when swamped.
If planing in choppy water as you say, these should be open anyway, ready for the worst.
However a float switch pump, located at the rear needs to be in a well, otherwise the boat will be full of a lot of water before it can work.
If you don't have a well, don't bother. If you do, then ideal. We have one to remove rainwater when on the mooring, plus also the water that builds as skiers get in and out.
It may as well be on a full auto. However if on a mooring/pontoon rather than trailer and you only have one battery or no isolator on two, if the float switch sticks (which they do if full of rubbish) the battery will discharge.
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03 May 2012, 10:15
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copinsay
Hello
Thanks for the comments.
I can quite understand the suggestions about the trunk, but - unless I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting - I'm after a way of removing a relatively modest amount of splash over water without having to leave - or reach back from - the helm in the middle of the boat. This is especially so when planing single handed; I feel it safer to keep looking forward.
There are already two large bungs that will empty the water when at speed if removed, I'm just after avoiding turning around to fiddle with them.
The water removal is not critical as there is the manual option, so a lack of electrical power, while not great, is not really of a concern for the pump.
And for around £50, a pump system seems an affordable "luxury" :o) Or maybe people find they are more trouble than they are worth?
So any more specific suggestions on the pump type, fitting etc very welcome.
As ever many thanks for your help
Best wishes
Steve
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I also recommend a Rule 1000 manual (i.e not automatic) switched pump. I've only used the elephant trunk once, when the boat was flooded in a viscious overfall. Mine was fitted from new with a couple of self tappers. I've since added another similar pump and separate float switch to clear rain water when the boat is on a mooring. I stuck that on with Sikaflex. No problems with it coming unstuck after two seasons and better than putting screws in.
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03 May 2012, 10:35
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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I fitted a rule one to my SR4 for the same reason as you, just wanted to get rid of water from the deck that collects with people getting in & out + if it rains, I have not had to use the trunk on any of my ribs yet in 10 + years of ribbing! (Must try harder!)
Also doing a lot in harbour with a mile or so to get out the trunk is not much use getting rid of water at 6 to 8 knots.
I do not have a well but have put the pump in the corner & all the water runes to the back anyway & you can soon lean over to one side to get the water running in to it.
I have just sikaflex it to the floor & have a on of stitch, works for me & I did the same to my Osprey Viper too!
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03 May 2012, 12:19
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Devon
Make: Ribtec 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 89
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make sure if u mount one in the transom sump that the float switch is not in one of the corners ,it will register water when there is nothing to pump if it's not dead level on the trailer or ground.
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03 May 2012, 13:50
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hearne
I have not had to use the trunk on any of my ribs yet in 10 + years of ribbing!
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You're not doing it right......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Copinsay
I'm after a way of removing a relatively modest amount of splash over water without having to leave - or reach back from - the helm in the middle of the boat. This is especially so when planing single handed; I feel it safer to keep looking forward.
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I have twin trunks - both workable without taking the other hand off the wheel. Instead of the silly wee bit of string and a jam cleat on the transom, replace the stupid wee bit of string with a decent length of 6mm braid, lead it forward (granted I have the advantage of 6 handholds that I can "duct" it through) then use a simple stainless hook & a suitably positioned loop. Unhook - trunks down. Grab hook, pull & hook to loop - trunks up.
I had to put a bit of bungee to yank the rope back through the handholds and make sure the trunks go down when required, but it's not difficult to remote operate them.
On a similar theme I have an emergency release line on my tow bridle. That line is grabbable all the way down the hull.
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03 May 2012, 14:14
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: NW& wherever the boat is!
Boat name: depends on m'mood!
Make: Humbers/15-24m cats
Length: 6m +
Engine: etec130/big volvos
MMSI: many and various
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,816
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extra long shaft o/b and a bilge pump, and we no longer have to use the elephant trunk - a flick of the switch and its gone....however the trunk is there in case of a swamping and the need to remove a lotta water in a short time but thats only gonna work if we can get forward speed. Dead in the water the trunk is just gonna let water in and you need to close it and use a pump, even if the most efficient form of bilge pump is indeed a bucket in the hands of a very frightened man
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03 May 2012, 14:22
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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I just bought a Johnson pump-it's got a removable and replaceable motor/impeller cartridge. Can't comment on how good it is as a pump as I haven't used it yet, but if it does go wrong you don't have to unscrew and renew everything.
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03 May 2012, 17:15
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
I just bought a Johnson pump-it's got a removable and replaceable motor/impeller cartridge. Can't comment on how good it is as a pump as I haven't used it yet, but if it does go wrong you don't have to unscrew and renew everything.
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The only thing I would say nos is every Johnson pump I've ever used has packed up. Even when only weeks old!
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13 May 2012, 13:36
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Orkney
Boat name: Skylark
Make: Bombard 500
Length: 5m +
Engine: 60hp Yamaha outboard
MMSI: 235091893
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 416
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Hello All
Many thanks for all the advice on this.
I now have a Rule pump, as like Nick said, this is for small amounts when pottering about, rather than being swamped, and also often at speeds which would not evacuate via the bungs/trunks etc
It's also been a great insight into the different views on trunk use, and expectations about how much water people expect to take in as a "real" ribber :o)
As ever, really helpful advice with a good dollop of humour too.
Best wishes and thanks
Steve
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13 May 2012, 19:39
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Inverness
Boat name: none
Make: none
Engine: none
MMSI: none
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,908
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I have a Rule auto sensing one which is switched on when we start the OB and switched off when we stop the OB.
It senses every two minutes or so and runs until empty, it is now 4 years old and I don't ever use the trunk either.
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13 May 2012, 19:57
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Orkney
Boat name: Skylark
Make: Bombard 500
Length: 5m +
Engine: 60hp Yamaha outboard
MMSI: 235091893
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 416
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Thanks - nice to know I don't need to get too hung up on not getting my trunk out
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13 May 2012, 22:13
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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I have a Rule 1100 with float switch which is on all the time on mooring and when OB on. Normally I do not use my two trunks but have thought about it in heavy seas a couple of times. I must say If its really bad I have them ready to deploy because if you do stuff or fill by any means it is the only way you will get her dry again.
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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