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30 September 2013, 16:13
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
Length: no boat
MMSI: 235101591
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 732
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Breaking into a wire?
What's the RIBnet approved way of 'breaking into' a wire, i.e., adding a 'tee' or 'wire' into an existing wire?
I wouldn't use sotchloks on a boat (and they are not my favourite things anyway).
Thanks
Hugh
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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30 September 2013, 16:27
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughN
What's the RIBnet approved way of 'breaking into' a wire, i.e., adding a 'tee' or 'wire' into an existing wire?
I wouldn't use sotchloks on a boat (and they are not my favourite things anyway).
Thanks
Hugh
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Can't think of any good use for scotchlocks, other than chucking in the bin safest bet is to cut the cable you want to tee into, bare all three ends, then tin them, slide some heat shrink tubing over one end, then solder all threes ends together, then slide the heat shrink over the joint, heat it up and job done! but if you can, much better to take the new end back to an existing connection, makes a far better job and makes for much easier fault finding in the future
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30 September 2013, 16:38
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Why do you need to "T" into an existing wire at all? What's the source wire and what are the new wires feeding?
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30 September 2013, 17:41
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cheshire
Boat name: Gollione
Make: Avon Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 347
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Joining into the middle of a cable is not the preferred way of creating an additional spur. But if you really have to then as mentioned earlier cut solder and heat shrink (adhesive type is best).
Keeping circuits separate and running from a new point in the distribution is a better way especially where fuses are involved.
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30 September 2013, 18:07
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
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MMSI: 235101591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colcreate
Joining into the middle of a cable is not the preferred way of creating an additional spur. But if you really have to then as mentioned earlier cut solder and heat shrink (adhesive type is best).
Keeping circuits separate and running from a new point in the distribution is a better way especially where fuses are involved.
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The new wire are to tap into the NMEA from the GPS. The wire from the DSC radio hangs temptingly close to a wire passing nearby. To extend that wire to an end would be awkward from a routing point of view. I think this translates as "I am lazy"
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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30 September 2013, 18:09
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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A crimp is also a good way to join your three wires together but only is you have a good crimping tool. You can then slide over your heat shrink for added protection/insulation.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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30 September 2013, 18:14
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughN
The new wire are to tap into the NMEA from the GPS. The wire from the DSC radio hangs temptingly close to a wire passing nearby. To extend that wire to an end would be awkward from a routing point of view. I think this translates as "I am lazy"
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What flavour of NMEA is it? AFAIK you can't just "T" in to a NMEA0183 data cable or N2k for that matter.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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30 September 2013, 18:15
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughN
The new wire are to tap into the NMEA from the GPS. The wire from the DSC radio hangs temptingly close to a wire passing nearby. To extend that wire to an end would be awkward from a routing point of view. I think this translates as "I am lazy"
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sounds like a plan that you may well live to regret in the future, you know you should be doing a proper job and it will be much harder to sort out when its cold, wet and dark
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30 September 2013, 18:17
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
Length: no boat
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
What flavour of NMEA is it? AFAIK you can't just "T" in to a NMEA0183 data cable or N2k for that matter.
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Whatever the spec might say it works in practise! As long as one of the receivers doesn't drag the voltage down it seems OK. Its asynchronous after all and the transmitter doesn't care who is listening.
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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30 September 2013, 18:47
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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I've had to T into 2 cables on the Ballistic.I didn't like doing it, but there wasn't an option apart from sticking busbars in where they weren't practical.
I did it by very carefully removing the insulation from one, twisting the bare end of the other round it as flat as possible and soldering the connection. I covered it with glue lined heatshrink after.
If you use decent glue lined heatshrink it'll take up and seal where the 2 wires exit as well.
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30 September 2013, 18:59
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughN
Whatever the spec might say it works in practise! As long as one of the receivers doesn't drag the voltage down it seems OK. Its asynchronous after all and the transmitter doesn't care who is listening.
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Interesting, what are you actually "T" ing together? GPS/VHF/? I thought you could only have 1 talker & 1 listener per circuit unless you had a multiplexer.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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30 September 2013, 21:15
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
I did it by very carefully removing the insulation from one, twisting the bare end of the other round it as flat as possible and soldering the connection. I covered it with glue lined heatshrink after.
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How did you get heatshrink over a single piece of terminated-at-both-ends wire?
jky
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01 October 2013, 14:42
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincolnshire
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
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Here is a nice description with pics, not from a boaty site but usefull information.
Symon's Electrical 101...
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01 October 2013, 15:10
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hampshire
Boat name: Altea 2
Make: Narwhal
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90 Mariner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
How did you get heatshrink over a single piece of terminated-at-both-ends wire?
jky
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self amalgamating tape would be the way to go in my opinion
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01 October 2013, 20:21
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
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Posts: 732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcervelo
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Thanks!
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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01 October 2013, 20:23
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailer Guy
self amalgamating tape would be the way to go in my opinion
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I'm not taking advice on self-amalgamating tape from someone who probably uses when performing surgical procedures on himself!
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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01 October 2013, 20:25
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Interesting, what are you actually "T" ing together? GPS/VHF/? I thought you could only have 1 talker & 1 listener per circuit unless you had a multiplexer.
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(Sshh! If the boat hears you it will all stop working)
GPS -> VHF + PC + Logger
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"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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01 October 2013, 20:55
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HughN
(Sshh! If the boat hears you it will all stop working)
GPS -> VHF + PC + Logger
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Ahhh! the logger shhhh! Are the VHF/PC & logger just listening or does the VHF output DSC messages?
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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01 October 2013, 21:17
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#19
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
How did you get heatshrink over a single piece of terminated-at-both-ends wire?
jky
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On one,it didn't have a terminal on the end when I broke into it. On the other, the heatshrink fitted over the connector on the end.
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02 October 2013, 05:58
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Ahhh! the logger shhhh! Are the VHF/PC & logger just listening or does the VHF output DSC messages?
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They are all just listeners, which is why it works OK.
__________________
"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
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