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Old 25 September 2017, 12:19   #21
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Oh no!


Lose the straps over the tubes[emoji45]
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Old 25 September 2017, 12:21   #22
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Lose the straps over the tubes[emoji45]
They're gone post tow...
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Old 25 September 2017, 12:22   #23
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They're gone post tow...


[emoji106]phew, don't do it again[emoji6]
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Old 25 September 2017, 13:17   #24
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Ooh dear[emoji848]
waiting for that
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Old 25 September 2017, 13:30   #25
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...and access is a bit of a biatch!
feel your pain never easy i am doing something similar but i will extend all my wires out of the console for ease think about that as you will need to strip the wiring back to make sure it's not goosed.
set a new box up identical take one wire at a time extend fit to new box have an external strap to hold your new box in place then if a fuse blows it's just undo that pull the box out to sort. use spiral wrap to keep all the wires neat, job done.
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Old 25 September 2017, 18:09   #26
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Quote:
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feel your pain never easy i am doing something similar but i will extend all my wires out of the console for ease think about that as you will need to strip the wiring back to make sure it's not goosed.
set a new box up identical take one wire at a time extend fit to new box have an external strap to hold your new box in place then if a fuse blows it's just undo that pull the box out to sort. use spiral wrap to keep all the wires neat, job done.
Sounds like a good methodology. What manuf boxes are you using?
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Old 25 September 2017, 18:49   #27
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Cable id

Looks like proper cable glands to IP66 / IP68 would improve the situation. If you want to put cable numbers on I can send you some gratis have many sitting in the garage from past work projects.

Always worth drawing a diagram and laminating it to keep inside the box.

Would definitely replace the rusting chocolate block terminal strips

Have a fair few terminals / numbers / end feed crimps available if anybody is doing a refurb. Happy to help out as they just take up space in the garage.


PM if anything of interest.


Cheers.


Mike
Rauma Finland/South Manchester a couple of times a month
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Old 25 September 2017, 19:39   #28
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Sounds like a good methodology. What manuf boxes are you using?
Try CEF for boxes I am keeping mine simple not using chock blocks two reasons they corrode & you have to loop when you have a lot of wiring ( more connections to go wrong)best with a buzbar no loops needed and thier brass I will just put mine altogether and solder up as common +ve & -ve with resin caps I just like it simple. OMO
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Old 25 September 2017, 21:08   #29
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Welcome to the forum.

Just on PD's "Ooh dear" - you should tie it down using the loop at the front and from the transom at the back. The tubes don't like having straps over them.

The junction box appears to have a fair amount of home grown electrickery in it. If I were you I'd trace each wire and then make a drawing. You can then assess whether there are spare bits in there and do a neat job of re-wiring it.

https://www.bluesea.com/systems

have a large range of stuff plus the link above takes you to some handy diagrams of typical wiring scenario's.
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Old 25 September 2017, 21:10   #30
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Can anyone ID these mcb's for me?

I use Bluesea components as they are all designed for marine use. A couple of their 12 way fuse blocks with integral bus bar would sort that out nicely. https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover
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Old 25 September 2017, 22:05   #31
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rip the lot out and start again I think +1 for the blue sea stuff try mount the box on a vertical surface as well up of the floor if poss I have some blue sea mcbs going spare if you want them
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Old 03 October 2017, 19:10   #32
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Thanks for your input, everyone! I've spent the last 2 days compiling drawings and ripping it all out!

I've replaced the system, for now, with an automotive-based system and will install an all singing/dancing BlueSeas system over the winter with the RIB at home.

I've run new 2.5mm cables, installed a small automotive 6 way fuse box with LED fuses and tested everything through. I've replaced the high-draw cables, in particular the bilge pump, all the way from the FB to the pump utilising a clear IP68 field JB.

When I started to remove the layers and the mcb mounts I came across this mess:

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Old 03 October 2017, 19:23   #33
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I hope that's not 2.5mm solid strand copper[emoji15]
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Old 03 October 2017, 19:39   #34
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Quote:
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I hope that's not 2.5mm solid strand copper[emoji15]
Hope all you like... [emoji879]

I've been working like an archaeologist uncovering layers of dodgy history.

However, I have grand plans!! [emoji3]
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Old 03 October 2017, 19:48   #35
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Bits and pieces after removal...

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Old 03 October 2017, 19:53   #36
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You'll love this. IP 44 box on inboard side of transom with Nav and running lights wired through it. Had the bilge before I split that out.

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Old 04 October 2017, 11:39   #37
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Circuit Breakers

The circuit breakers are standard, not really for marine use, unless well protected from the elements,and are cheap on line from CPC Farnell.
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