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01 March 2011, 17:58
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe
Boat name: Mistofelees
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp ficht
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 8
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console "repair"
I wish to replace the fishfinder and GPS in the rib, from separate fishfinder and GPS to a 2-in-1 job. The annoying thing with this is that I would have a cut out fro the console where the other unit would have been. Is it possible to fill the hole in somehow?
Perhaps fibre glassing from behind and gel coating on the top?
Thanks.
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01 March 2011, 18:03
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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I'd go for a well made/fitted stainless cover plate. Other instruments or switches could be fitted in the plate.
A GRP job would always be visible and could look a mess.
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01 March 2011, 18:22
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,047
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A repair to fill the hole is possible, but as Mollers says it might be a lot easier and effective just to make a plate. It depends if you want a super-smart remodel or a working re-jig.
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01 March 2011, 18:48
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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this is a matt carbon dash we did in a marlin
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01 March 2011, 18:55
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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Sweet Biffer. I wish I could afford to commision such good work.
Ian
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01 March 2011, 19:44
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,920
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I had exactly the same issue when I replaced the systems in my console.
The main face was full of odd holes that didn't fit any of the new gear, so my answer, like Biffs, was to cover over all the existing holes with a piece of new material, and in effect start with a clean sheet.
I've actually done this twice over the last few years as I was never really happy with the cut edge on my first attempt.
I found an off-cut of Black Plastic at a sign makers that has a nice leather style embossed finish, cut it to size, screwed it down onto some sealant and cut the new holes through the new 'dashboard insert' and the original face of the console.
It's obviously not pretty from behind, but looks good from the front.
Best of all it cost me just a couple of quid for the off-cut that I've now got two inserts from.
The stainless Box section along the top edge has been added more recently, firstly to hold the front edge down more securely so the rain doesn't go down the back, and secondly as I have another project in mind that will use it as a mount.
Nasher.
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01 March 2011, 23:47
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Boat name: Sweet Chilli
Make: Ribcraft 585/Wetline
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 90HP Yam 4HP
MMSI: 235084532
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 161
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I had the same problem with my Ribcraft 585 as it was littered with holes. I made a top and bottom panel to form a sandwich which I sikaflex'd in place. I also made a adaptor plate for the the radio and the compass. I do have the advantage of a sheetmetal laser at hand. The couple of photo's are midway through the refit. If I can help let me know.
Ps Salcombe is one of the best boating locations in the uk.
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Is it Friday yet????
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01 March 2011, 23:53
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Northumberland
Boat name: Dr Doof
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 125hp
MMSI: 235082981
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 297
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That looks very smart. Impressive.
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02 March 2011, 12:18
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Boat name: Vixen
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki OB 175
MMSI: 235071839
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,624
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I'd go the stainless route, draw it out and take it to a stainless fabricator and get it laser cut. If you really want to be anal you could even have it laser marked at a sign place that does this, you could then mark all the switch legends etc direct into the metal.
Might avoid the mirror polish look and go for light sandblast say wi prune pips or something.
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New boat is here, very happy!
Simon
www.luec.org
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02 March 2011, 13:36
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Boat name: Sweet Chilli
Make: Ribcraft 585/Wetline
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 90HP Yam 4HP
MMSI: 235084532
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon B
I'd go the stainless route, draw it out and take it to a stainless fabricator and get it laser cut. If you really want to be anal you could even have it laser marked at a sign place that does this, you could then mark all the switch legends etc direct into the metal.
Might avoid the mirror polish look and go for light sandblast say wi prune pips or something.
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Polished stainless means you can check you hair whilst underway. All I need now is hair
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Is it Friday yet????
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02 March 2011, 13:41
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Had the same issue on my refurb, fitted a stainless plate for the extra gauges and switches etc over a large hole.
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02 March 2011, 16:46
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burtox
Polished stainless means you can check you hair whilst underway. All I need now is hair
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02 March 2011, 17:00
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burtox
Polished stainless means you can check you hair whilst underway. All I need now is hair
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also means when the sun's out you can't see where you're going
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02 March 2011, 19:08
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
also means when the sun's out you can't see where you're going
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Powder coated aluminium might be a better option, save you a fortune in jigsaw blades too if you're diy'ing it
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02 March 2011, 19:32
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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We also used (brushed) stainless steel for the new top mount control and steering boss when we repowered, but also used some white plastic (not perspex....this stuff was weather resistant etc) for covering the old holes (stereo and different vHF) where we remounted a new vHF....Sikaflex and allen key domes stainless bolts to fix....Found a guy online who cut /drilled the perspex to order (to accept the vHF) and posted through all for less than £10!!.....MUCH cheaper /easier than buying a large sheet
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03 March 2011, 18:54
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe
Boat name: Mistofelees
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp ficht
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 8
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Thanks for the advice.
The plate sounds like a good option to keep the console looking neat. Also does anyone have any experience with the garmin 551s? or have any other similar plotters that they could recommend?
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