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12 November 2013, 18:37
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Make: Humber
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 89
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Earthing in rib
I am in process of rewiring my rib can some one tell me how they go about earthing their 12volt system? I was going to run an earth from neg terminal Of battery to a threaded bolt in the grp somewhere dry and out the way.
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12 November 2013, 18:43
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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That will do. You can get bus bars. They make it look tidy. You can get fuse boards with bus bars in them. You are on the right track though
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12 November 2013, 18:50
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Make: Humber
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 89
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Yeah I'm only running lights, bilge pump and maybe 12v charger.
I'm going to use the blue sea systems fuse box with bus bars. Was going to use breakers but think it'll be okay on fuses as it's only 3 basic supplies.
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12 November 2013, 18:51
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
That will do. You can get bus bars. They make it look tidy. You can get fuse boards with bus bars in them. You are on the right track though
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+1 keep the wiring tidy and don't add any joints into loom where you can't get at them in the future, they will always be the ones that give you the problems
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12 November 2013, 19:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Forgive the naive, but why do you need an earth on a 12V plastic boat? Is it to prevent corrosion due to creation of an anode in a +ve to outboard casing short? (only reason I could conceive)
Many thanks
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12 November 2013, 19:43
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzwizz
Forgive the naive, but why do you need an earth on a 12V plastic boat? Is it to prevent corrosion due to creation of an anode in a +ve to outboard casing short? (only reason I could conceive)
Many thanks
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He is looking for a common earth to be used by several electrical items
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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12 November 2013, 19:51
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzwizz
Forgive the naive, but why do you need an earth on a 12V plastic boat? Is it to prevent corrosion due to creation of an anode in a +ve to outboard casing short? (only reason I could conceive) Many thanks
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If you have to ask never do any wiring on a boat
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12 November 2013, 19:54
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Thanks A1an
Is it common practice to Earth 12V systems in RIBs? I'm a little confused as 12V equipment has it's negative already tied to metal casings, unless its a double insulated plastic case where earth is not needed. The negative terminal is already earthing the case. Why is an extra one required. Am I missing something?
Sorry to sound lost ... Fizz
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12 November 2013, 19:55
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salisbury
Boat name: Blue C
Make: XS 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 125hp Opti
MMSI: 235082826/235909566
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,439
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Technically its not an Earth, it's the 12v -ve, not to be confused with a true earth, for shore power.
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12 November 2013, 20:02
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
If you have to ask never do any wiring on a boat
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Red to red, black to black. Plug it in and stand well back!
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12 November 2013, 20:06
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashbypower
Technically its not an Earth, it's the 12v -ve, not to be confused with a true earth, for shore power.
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Thanks, I'm with you now. Confusion over
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12 November 2013, 20:12
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Yep that's about it. To think about it logically
You have black and red on a battery and the same on your electronics. You need to connect them together. If you only connect one side you haven't made the full circle.
If you need to do any wiring draw it out first and get it right in your head before you touch anything. Seriously though in your case I'd get someone else to do it. A loom burn out or a fire will really ruin your day
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12 November 2013, 20:20
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#13
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Member
Country: France
Make: Joker Booat
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 70
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 430
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12 November 2013, 20:20
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
Yep that's about it. To think about it logically
You have black and red on a battery and the same on your electronics. You need to connect them together. If you only connect one side you haven't made the full circle.
If you need to do any wiring draw it out first and get it right in your head before you touch anything. Seriously though in your case I'd get someone else to do it. A loom burn out or a fire will really ruin your day
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I get circuit continuity, what I didn't get was the use of the phrase Earth. An Earth is a way of bonding the potential of metalwork that may come into contact with an electrical circuit. Earths are used in higher potential systems (240V) to protect from live to metalwork short circuits, and also to tie the potential to that of the actual Earth or Ground. (Hence the term) also preventing casing to earth shocks. I couldn't work out why you would want to bond the metalwork on a boat to an Earth potential. What I didn't realise is that the term Earth and negative were being used in juxtaposition. ... Fizz
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12 November 2013, 20:35
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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If you have a faulty earth/ neutral on a boat you will become what is best described as the earth rod or ground and you will get a good shock off it. This usually happens when everything is wet. You seem to know more than the basics you will do fine
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12 November 2013, 20:46
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#16
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzwizz
I get circuit continuity, what I didn't get was the use of the phrase Earth. An Earth is a way of bonding the potential of metalwork that may come into contact with an electrical circuit. Earths are used in higher potential systems (240V) to protect from live to metalwork short circuits, and also to tie the potential to that of the actual Earth or Ground. (Hence the term) also preventing casing to earth shocks. I couldn't work out why you would want to bond the metalwork on a boat to an Earth potential. What I didn't realise is that the term Earth and negative were being used in juxtaposition. ... Fizz
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Its fairly common to bring a bunch of small negative wires back to a common negavtive post or buss bar. That point is then wired to the battery with a single larger cable capable of carrying all those individual currents. The negative post or buss may also be wired to something like the engine block to keep everything at earth potential. The use of single "ground" wires from the negative buss (or post) to the engine and another to the battery avoids multiple wires and circuitous routes so that no current can flow between difference bits of metal which might want to be at different potentials. E.g. the engine block vs the stainless prop shaft. The whole idea being that all currents are carried by wires, not by any metal parts at all.
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12 November 2013, 20:55
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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As clearly stated by others, the term 'earth' is being used generically to mean the negative or 'ground' side of the battery. The reason you can combine the negative wires to a single point or bus is mainly for convenience but also because it is normally the positive side that is fused.
You will sometimes find a genuine earth on a boat which normally comprises of a copper plate on the hull under the waterline. This can be for lightning protection and to improve radio reception on SSB and the like.
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12 November 2013, 21:12
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Actually the OP sounds like he is putting the threaded bolt in the GRP - that does sound like the bolt was going through the skin or something... I can see why Fizz was confused.
As he only had about 3 bits of electrical kit I'm not sure why he feels the need to have a bus-bar in addition to whats already on the fuse...
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12 November 2013, 21:16
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Gemini Waverider 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha 90 2S
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
The whole idea being that all currents are carried by wires, not by any metal parts at all.
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Many thanks for the info. It does strike me though, that the best way to prevent these erroneous currents through metalwork is to keep your 12V circuitry away from it. i.e don't tie your negative to your engine (ground). The minute you do this you have the potential for aberrant circuits running through props/shafts etc. as you've created a path back to negative through the metalwork. Despite peoples belief, current cannot flow from the positive terminal of your battery to the sea. (This only happens with powerstation generated electricity as the powerstation bonds neutral to the ground creating a path back for current through the soil)
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12 November 2013, 21:29
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#20
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzwizz
Many thanks for the info. It does strike me though, that the best way to prevent these erroneous currents through metalwork is to keep your 12V circuitry away from it. i.e don't tie your negative to your engine (ground).
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You don't have a lot of choice about that unfortunately. Battery negatives bolt directly to the powerhead. There's no avoiding it as without the negative bolted to the powerhead, you're not going to be able to generate an HT spark.
It's a good reason to keep an eye on your anodes
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