Electrical components for re-wire

arn.george · 08 February 2005, 20:08

I am looking at re-wiring my rib from battery to switchpanel/ fuse box to gps / radio/ lights etc. Looking for a supplier of bus bars/ fuseboxes etc. Have looked at Index marine but not too impressed by prices and components.
Does anyone have any recommendations and possible wiring diagrams.

Chrisallse - I was impressed by your re-wire - where did you source components?

ashbypower · 08 February 2005, 21:14

Try RS Comps http://rswww.com I sourced most of mine from them. Next day service. I pupose made my own fuse box using their compnents.

Good luck with the task.

Brian

Swifty · 08 February 2005, 22:07

Avoid anything 'marine' its ghastly and over priced. I now source from RS as mentioned, farnell components www.farnell.com or rapid www.rapidelectronics.co.uk
In particular look for anything rated IP65 or better. IP65 is waterproof but only against spray, IP66 is completely waterproof and IP67 is rated for immersion. All the switches on my boat are IP67 and have not given me one ounce of trouble.

If you are really serious I can take some pictures, let me know.

arn.george · 08 February 2005, 22:16

If not too much trouble some pics would be great to get an idea of layout.
Thanks again

Cookee · 09 February 2005, 08:58

Make sure you use tinned wire rather than the plain copper - it just turns black. For ring terminals etc and heatshrink use the type that has glue built into it as it seals everything better.

Swifty · 09 February 2005, 20:31

Here is my fusebox. You can see the 6.0mm wires coming in on the right. The breakers are 5amp with one at 15 amp for the accessory socket on the dash. The glands are all water proof and I use a rubber insulated cable as opposed to PVC which tends to go hard and brittle. The 4 output cables go upto the switches which are double pole IP67 types. The equipment (lights, bilge, echo etc) are wired directly to the back of the switch.

For next refit I intend to enclose the back of the switches and run everything to a large waterproof distribution board.

For the bilge pump and stern light I use a multicore cable. At the stern the cable then enters a waterproof???? box where it splits out to the stern light and the bilge pump. The box sprung a leak after I removed the wire from the top gland and thought tightening it down would seal it. This box was put in in a bit of a hurry and is on my immediate list of jobs to replace. I do not normally use choc block but like I said, it was a bodge to get it afloat. But just goes to show why we should use top grade kit. I have ordered some mini terminal blocks which should be fitted soon.

As you can see I use waterproof connectors for the forward light mast and glands on the lights.

Hope that gives you some ideas.

arn.george · 09 February 2005, 21:27

Swifty,
Thank you for that - as you say it goes to prove the importance of top notch gear. I have done a botch to get afloat but I am wanting to do a proper job before the start of the "proper" season.
Much appreicated photos - thanks again

Rogue Wave · 09 February 2005, 23:05

If you want top Grade marine components the try Aquafax in Hamble and look through their range of ver sussed products. Keep the wiring simple avoid MCB's if you can and get Fuses instead they have a longer sea life.

Tinned wire is essential for longevity. Ou of interest what impressed you about Chrisalse's rewire apart from the fantastic neatness

arn.george · 10 February 2005, 07:52

As you say, amazing neatness avoiding tangling wires and easily accessible and well labelled for future reference.
Thanks for info

SDGANDER · 10 February 2005, 12:09

Only problem with RS is you have to have an account with them... to get it you ll need proof of trading.

Else try any local electrical supplies store, eg. SETS, QVS,etc. as most will sell across the trade counter to the public and you have the advantage of browsing their catalogues to compare prices.

SDG

ashbypower · 10 February 2005, 12:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDGANDER

Only problem with RS is you have to have an account with them... to get it you ll need proof of trading.

Else try any local electrical supplies store, eg. SETS, QVS,etc. as most will sell across the trade counter to the public and you have the advantage of browsing their catalogues to compare prices.

SDG

Not strictly true anymore. You can open an account online and pay online without proof of trading. Good quality gear and IMHO fairly priced.

Also try to avoid using muliticore cable. If you use Twin for each circuit should a problem arise with it you only have to replace one circuit supply cable.

Don't forget to leave a "Pull through" in the trunking to aid future work.

Regards

Brian

Swifty · 10 February 2005, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDGANDER

Only problem with RS is you have to have an account with them... to get it you ll need proof of trading.

If anyone has a problem buying, then I am quite happy to order on my account, providing they pay me first!

Tim M · 10 February 2005, 19:57

arn.george:

You're in Norfolk.....I strongly recommend Briand Ward Marine at Brundall. They are very friendly and very competative. Tell them Tim Meo sent you (they might give me a discount one day

)

arn.george · 10 February 2005, 22:34

Cheers tim
We must do that skeggy trip soon

Alex

Rogue Wave · 11 February 2005, 04:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by arn.george

As you say, amazing neatness avoiding tangling wires and easily accessible and well labelled for future reference.
Thanks for info

http://www.aquafax.co.uk/pdfs/08a_cat.pdf

This is the download for the best marine components I have come accross, The Blue sea System stuff is very good. If Dirk Diggler or Jelly tell you that there are better then listen to them cos they know about this stuff.

I don't actually believe that RS components are the de facto source for Marine electrical components, also having been a customer for over thirty years I don't think they are that reasonably priced, availability and delivery is good with them however and it is difficult to fault the service!

Now having hacked off the RS brigade I am gonna risk a Ribsters Fatwa and mention my concerns over Chrissalse's wiring job.

They are to do with how you sort out a wiring failure at Sea, I think that the neatness and the cable tie looming will make it very awkward to trace a faulty cable through the loom and a very destructive process to replace it.

SO I would suggest that if you were emulating this sort of implementation you use Velcro cable fasteners instead of tie wraps and I would some sort of cable Ident to make it easy to trace cables as they pass through bulkheads and floors etc ( The latter may already be in place)

arn.george · 11 February 2005, 07:52

Now having hacked off the RS brigade I am gonna risk a Ribsters Fatwa and mention my concerns over Chrissalse's wiring job.

They are to do with how you sort out a wiring failure at Sea, I think that the neatness and the cable tie looming will make it very awkward to trace a faulty cable through the loom and a very destructive process to replace it.

I agree with the fact of being able to identify and trace a cable easily, hence wanting to keep cables tidy and labelled at fusebox. Essential to be able to access cables/fuses and junction boxes at all times. Thanks again for all the info.

Jizm · 12 February 2005, 20:51

I used these switches when rewiring my rib. the components of the switch can be changed individually, ie actuator, mounting, and contact block. They can also be tailored to suit your needs, ie normally open, closed, combination of N/C or N/O, lever switch, key switch, momentary pushbutton etc. They can be used for igntion, lights, horn anything, and all interchangable. Easy to fit in a 22mm round hole, no jigsaws or filing involved. There are membranes availble to take them from IP65 to IP66 and I have never had an an ounce of trouble with them. A bit dear I know but you get what you pay for as they say.
regards
Jizm

Rogue Wave · 13 February 2005, 19:42

go on spoil us give us a link

The Garfish · 13 February 2005, 20:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

go on spoil us give us a link

connsidder yorselv spoyled

chrisallse · 13 February 2005, 23:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by arn.george

I am looking at re-wiring my rib from battery to switchpanel/ fuse box to gps / radio/ lights etc. Looking for a supplier of bus bars/ fuseboxes etc. Have looked at Index marine but not too impressed by prices and components.
Does anyone have any recommendations and possible wiring diagrams.

Chrisallse - I was impressed by your re-wire - where did you source components?

Thanks arn.george, sorry i didnt reply earlier, only just seen your post.
Most of the bits are either RS or Merlin. Nothing suitable for a boat will be cheap but you won't beat these companies for service especially RS and you dont need an acount you can pay on line for next day delivery, if you do need an account they also have provision for this even if you are not trade. Have been dealing with RS for nearly 40 years, great service and products.
Dont agree with Rogue about tidy cables, if its wired correctly you wont get faults in the cable runs. I have a circuit diagram and there are spare ways in the loom so it would be simple to repair a fault should one occur. It is important to use good tinned cable in marine applications, all of the connections are soldered to the lugs rather than crimped and then sleeved with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. All the cables run in Flexi conduits.

Chris

http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread....=wiring+update