Help needed! Dead engine electrics. - Page 2

Bucksribster · 22 April 2013, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by simsy

12.6 when not running is fairly well fully charged I.e 100% is 12.65 volts....

So maybe I will not have to buy new batteries :-)

Davie · 23 April 2013, 07:31

The main cable from the battery to the engine will be rotten. Get a pair of jumpleads and double up from your own battery direct to the starter relay and earth.

yam man · 23 April 2013, 08:15

battery shows 12.6 volts still needs to be load tested

Portholme · 28 April 2013, 09:00

I have an f100 too and had the same fuse blow when I got mine. When I bought it I knew it needed a new voltage regulator as that was goosed. Replaced that but the fuse still blew. Technician I used told me that the 30a fuse can only protect the engine from faults in the 703. Changed the whole wiring loom for the 703 and the 703 itself and hey presto it fixed itself.

You may have a similar problem

Bucksribster · 28 April 2013, 23:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Portholme

I have an f100 too and had the same fuse blow when I got mine. When I bought it I knew it needed a new voltage regulator as that was goosed. Replaced that but the fuse still blew. Technician I used told me that the 30a fuse can only protect the engine from faults in the 703. Changed the whole wiring loom for the 703 and the 703 itself and hey presto it fixed itself.

You may have a similar problem

Thanks for this. Did the fuse blow immediately for you? Having replaced the fuse, everything works, and I started the engine on the muff, and everything seems to be ok except this weird problem with the engine tilt. I have put a spare fuse in there in case.....

Replacing the 703 sounds expensive and difficult :-(

Portholme · 03 May 2013, 18:45

the fuse didnt blow immediately but i started getting weird electrical issues. whole dashboard went blank on a really lumpy ride, even though the engine was running. stopped to recover the boat and it blew and would not restart. i put a spare in and got it going.

the guy who replaced the 703 charged me about £250 for a brand new one fitted but the piece of mind is massive as i just didnt now what was going to happen next when out at sea.

Chris · 03 May 2013, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

That would be a last resort, as you'll need to bleed it afterwards which seems to take forever to purge air.

The fact other electrics are out suggests a damaged or dirty connection.

Could be corroded internal wiring. A multimeter on continuity setting will confirm. First steps are to clean all connections including bullet connectors.

The manual bypass does not let air in.

Bucksribster · 06 May 2013, 15:59

Just as an update, I took the boat down to the solent yesterday, and had a great time. The only downside was the continuing problem with the trim / tilt. It was a little embarrassing at Priory Bay when I could not tilt the engine for about 5 mins when coming in. I have had another look today, and cannot fathom it at all. It will tilt fine for about three quarters of one full down or up movement. Then it slows and slows and then finally stops. Then it is dead for about 5 mins, when it will work again for another movement, and so on.

During the dead period, the engine will turn over on the starter, so I think the main wiring to / from the battery is fine, as I am sure the starter takes more power than the trim / tilt.

The relays seem to click, and so I suspect there is something wrong with the trim motor. When I put my hand on it, it is quite warm to the touch. is this normal? Could it be that heat causes the case to expand, and this takes the brushes out of contact, or something similar?

Nos4r2 · 06 May 2013, 19:34

Nope, i suspect you need to get your trim motor off and have a look at the brushes/internal contacts. If it's getting hot, there's a high resistance somewhere.

spartacus · 06 May 2013, 22:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Nope, i suspect you need to get your trim motor off and have a look at the brushes/internal contacts. If it's getting hot, there's a high resistance somewhere.

Agree with Nos4r2. Strip the motor out as recommended and look at the carbon brushes. There are rubber 'o' rings that seal the unit, so prudent to order these too, as the existing ones may be leaking or are simply squashed and won't offer long term reliability. Also look at the condition of the wiring to the relays. You'll need the correct specification hydraulic mineral fluid to top up afterwards. The system will need purged of air afterwards.

Bucksribster · 06 May 2013, 23:44

Thanks for this. It looks like you need to take the whole PTT unit off to get to the motor bolts. Is there a video or instructions anywhere on this?

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2013, 00:21

You're better off taking the the whole unit off anyway-it'll be far easier to work on on a bench.

Get a manual. Don't even open it without one.

spartacus · 07 May 2013, 00:27

They're relatively simple bits of kit. There will be a (+tive) and (-tive) feed from the solenoids to the pump. Disconnect battery before working on it.

Manually release the valve to release hydraulic pressure and raise the outboard leg. The pump itself can be split into two halves. Normally held together with 10mm bolts, possibly 3-4 bolts around the circumference. Undo the bolts. Using a rubber mallet (don't use a hammer or it will end in tears) and knock around the trim pump to break vacuum seal. The top half of the pump contains the magnet so use a little force to separate. Once off you can get into the guts of the pump. I suspect Yamaha will probably sell pump kits including carbon brushes, 'o' rings and any other hardware required.

Check conditions of the carbon bushes. You can use a little brake cleaner on it if it looks dirty. If in doubt - post pictures so we can take a look. I've done this job on a Tohatsu, but they don't sell kits, so I overhauled mine.

Bucksribster · 07 May 2013, 10:45

Thanks guys. Where might I get a manual from? Are they available on line?

Bucksribster · 24 May 2013, 18:05

Well I have paid out a small fortune, but the T&T works again

I attach a photo of the horribly corroded one taken off. Surprising it worked at all really.

Yamaha do sell just the housing, and this is what was replaced. The price of this was bad enough, but what really got me was the price of the tiny sealing ring you can see in the photo. Any guesses.....?

EIGHTEEN QUID! I could not believe it.

It would make me think twice about buying a Yamaha again, or are all the rest just as bad?

Nos4r2 · 24 May 2013, 18:12

It's all expensive. Some not as expensive as Yamaha, but then Yamaha do make pretty good motors.

I wouldn't let Yamaha spares prices put you off them.

Bern Hanreck · 24 May 2013, 18:46

I've had my share of similar PTT problems with my Yamaha . It was suggested to me that I should always try to wash down with fresh water as I'm flushing the engine after use . It's hard to resist giving the unit a squirt of WD40 but I'm guessing that not be the seal's best friend ?

Nos4r2 · 24 May 2013, 18:49

I'm surprised you haven't got the whole lot coated in QS Corrosion Guard or an equivalent.

All my motors have a thick layer over the saddle/PTT etc.