I am going to rewire my rib and planning on replacing the isolator and installing an 8 way fuse box with negative bus. Question is can you get an isolator that will still supply power to the bilge pump when it is switch off or will the bilge pump need to be wired straight back to the battery wit h an inline fuse? Planning on putting in an on - off - (on) switch for the bilge pump!!
I am going to rewire my rib and planning on replacing the isolator and installing an 8 way fuse box with negative bus. Question is can you get an isolator that will still supply power to the bilge pump when it is switch off or will the bilge pump need to be wired straight back to the battery wit h an inline fuse? Planning on putting in an on - off - (on) switch for the bilge pump!!
Normal practice is to wire the bilge pump from the incoming side of the isolator via a fuse.
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I am going to rewire my rib and planning on replacing the isolator and installing an 8 way fuse box with negative bus. Question is can you get an isolator that will still supply power to the bilge pump when it is switch off or will the bilge pump need to be wired straight back to the battery wit h an inline fuse? Planning on putting in an on - off - (on) switch for the bilge pump!!
It also still needs power to it hence PD's solution of wiring to the battery side of the isolator.
I have two powered bilge pumps - one large one that is wired to the isolated side of the isolator. It's either on or off. I then have the smallest auto Rule pump that is wired to the battery side of the isolator with a switch that is either auto or off.
It's wired to the leisure battery so even if I accidentally leave it on, I'll still be able to start the engine.
The BlueSea website is quite good for wiring ideas (and kit).
BLACK PIG
Piglet
thanks.
Tickler
