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20 February 2018, 13:42
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Lottie
Make: Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury Optimax 115
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 72
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JB Mounting Methodology Help!
Looking at doing a complete re-wire on my RIB. Everything ordered and doing a proper job on this one. However, the existing JB is on the deck inside the console. I'd like to mount the new JB vertically, up from the floor. However, trying to decide on how to do that... I don't want screwheads on the outside of the console so need a completely internal mount - but, all of the surfaces are curved.
Have any of you made up mounting frames or bonded a sealed ply backing board to the bulkhead/console walls?
Any help welcome! Pics, etc more-so...
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20 February 2018, 19:12
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33JS
Looking at doing a complete re-wire on my RIB. Everything ordered and doing a proper job on this one. However, the existing JB is on the deck inside the console. I'd like to mount the new JB vertically, up from the floor. However, trying to decide on how to do that... I don't want screwheads on the outside of the console so need a completely internal mount - but, all of the surfaces are curved.
Have any of you made up mounting frames or bonded a sealed ply backing board to the bulkhead/console walls?
Any help welcome! Pics, etc more-so...
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Glue it on internally ever build do some good stuff cheaper than sikaflex or use that
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20 February 2018, 19:16
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Lottie
Make: Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury Optimax 115
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
Glue it on internally ever build do some good stuff cheaper than sikaflex or use that
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As simple as that? Doesn't vibration and moisture effects eventually cause the whole lot to come apart? ...always been a mechanical fastener kinda guy...
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20 February 2018, 19:28
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#4
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33JS
...always been a mechanical fastener kinda guy...
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Fingers crossed for your tubes so...
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20 February 2018, 19:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,163
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JB Mounting Methodology Help!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 33JS
As simple as that? Doesn't vibration and moisture effects eventually cause the whole lot to come apart? ...always been a mechanical fastener kinda guy...
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I'm with you on the mechanical fixings, BUT I've been using Stixall at work & I'm very impressed. About £6 a tube.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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20 February 2018, 21:02
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33JS
As simple as that? Doesn't vibration and moisture effects eventually cause the whole lot to come apart? ...always been a mechanical fastener kinda guy...
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The gripping power of this stuff is emence I have done pull off tests at work and achieved 900 psi it's got it's own shock absorption, designed for in water use and it's holding hardly any weight if it falls off clean up and reglue. Do a trial prep a couple of pieces of plastic stick together and pull apart after cure. I was the same always used bolts until I removed my jockey seats and found out the power of this stuff. If you want to remove it like I do stick a block on the side wall and screw to that.
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20 February 2018, 21:07
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
I'm with you on the mechanical fixings, BUT I've been using Stixall at work & I'm very impressed. About £6 a tube.
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Do a trial with it Dave it's certantly strong enough
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20 February 2018, 22:18
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
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You could bond a couple of bevelled hardwood battens on the console and then screw a ply board to that to mount your JB to.
In terms of adhesive, I tend to be a snob and use either Sika 292i or epoxy with microfibres for bonding stuff but as others have indicated there are probably a few similar but cheaper adhesives on the market.
The key (pun intended) to getting a good bond is the preparation of the surface. Sand the surface of the console in way of the battens and then wipe the surfaces with acetone to get rid of dust and any grease.
If done properly, it is a permanent bond which you won't get apart without destroying either the ply or the console.
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20 February 2018, 22:35
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Could glue in a couple of bonded fasteners and use wingnuts to hold the box on. I'm doing something similar in mine currently
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21 February 2018, 13:48
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Lottie
Make: Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury Optimax 115
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 72
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Great suggestions, guys! Thanks so much.
Pics to follow... [emoji106]
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23 February 2018, 08:03
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 82
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Another thumbs up for the adhesive qualities of sika flex, it’s what they use to stick windscreens into cars. It’s also flexible so will absorb vibrations and fully waterproof. Just a bit of a pig to get off in future!! - usually end up shaving it down with a razor blade.
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23 February 2018, 08:06
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Striker
Another thumbs up for the adhesive qualities of sika flex, it’s what they use to stick windscreens into cars. It’s also flexible so will absorb vibrations and fully waterproof. Just a bit of a pig to get off in future!! - usually end up shaving it down with a razor blade.
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sika do sell a product to remove it never used it so no info everbuild do one too i think thats a spray again never used it.
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23 February 2018, 20:58
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
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The Sika remover is for uncured product only - acetone works OK as well. Once it's cured, you can only remove it by mechanical means.
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