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21 April 2011, 12:12
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bursledon
Boat name: Mustard
Make: Ribeye 785
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yamaha 200/Merc 6
MMSI: 235068693
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 618
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Joining VHF coax.
Hi,
As an interim solution, I need to splice a new piece of coax to my existing run.
It will eventually all be replaced.
Is it better to do a soldered joint sealed with heat shrink or to use two pl259 plugs? Which gives the lowest loss?
Thanks!
__________________
Tony
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21 April 2011, 17:05
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Noise will be the big issue. VHF's can be sensitive to picking up noise from ignitions, and fishfinders.
As far as I know, you'll have an unshielded section if you use a standard "twist-and-solder" splice, which will be susceptible to interference (both coming and going.) There are ways around that (wrapping the insulated center conductor join with foil that shorts to the shield, etc.)
I would say that using a connector that preserves the shielding would be better - either PL-259/SO-239, or, alternatively, BNC connectors would be a good short term choice.
That said, if it's short term, a solder splice is cheaper, faster, and a lot easier.
jky
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21 April 2011, 17:24
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: t/t
Make: Honda
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 269
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2 * PL259 connectors with joining connector
on ebay will cost you about £2 company called Rocket Radio in Letchworth
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21 April 2011, 19:50
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#4
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlT
2 * PL259 connectors with joining connector
on ebay will cost you about £2 company called Rocket Radio in Letchworth
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That is how I would do it too
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A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
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21 April 2011, 21:01
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: east cowes
Make: academic
Length: no boat
Engine: fresh air
MMSI: N/A
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 543
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There is no need to have an unshielded section.
Strip back the outer sheath on each piece by two inches.
Pull the screen back over the outer sheath.
Shorten each inner core by about an inch.
Strip back a bit of insulation on each inner core, solder together and insulate.
Now pull the screen over the joint, overlap and solder a piece.
Now insulate the whole joint.
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21 April 2011, 22:27
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Sea Quest
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 150hp Mag3
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 49
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soldering will be a much better permanent fix, providing both core and briad are insulated from each other properly. connnectors will add a lot more noise as well as other problems in the future.
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21 April 2011, 23:03
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Archangel
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: ETec 225
MMSI: 235063789
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlT
2 * PL259 connectors with joining connector
on ebay will cost you about £2 company called Rocket Radio in Letchworth
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Agreed. It's how I've done it on my boat; all covered in Sikaflex to keep out da h2o.
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22 April 2011, 07:18
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,047
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It is horses for courses I would say. If you go down the solder route then it is up to you to do a really proper job, done well it will be better than a pair of plugs; done badly and you are introducing a potential fault.
I have used PL259s mid cable run before and while they probably do reduce performance, I have never been able to detect it.
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22 April 2011, 07:38
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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there is another way, ave a look on shakespear airiel website, there is a coax connector, you just push the coax in the fittingfrom both end, a bit like plumbing pushfit connectors
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22 April 2011, 08:01
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
there is another way, ave a look on shakespear airiel website, there is a coax connector, you just push the coax in the fittingfrom both end, a bit like plumbing pushfit connectors
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http://www.shakespeare-marine.com/co...ck=PL-258-CP-G
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22 April 2011, 08:36
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bursledon
Boat name: Mustard
Make: Ribeye 785
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yamaha 200/Merc 6
MMSI: 235068693
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 618
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Brilliant, thanks.
I think I will follow my instincts and solder it! Load of self adhesive heat shrink and it should last a few weeks.
__________________
Tony
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