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19 May 2016, 17:31
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Isle of Man
Town: Peel, IOM
Length: no boat
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,511
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Liquid Electrical Tape
Anybody used the above stuff?
I am thinking particularly of the spray can variety, but would appreciate any views.
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Brian
"Ribbing-the most expensive way of travelling third class"
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19 May 2016, 19:19
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#2
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 315
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Hi Brian,
I've used this Liquid Electrical Tape - LET
It's closer to liquid tar than anything else. Too early to tell how well it lasts as I rewired during winter.
Most of the fittings I used were heat shrink sealing terminals, crimp them on, apply heat and the collar of the fitting melts and contracts around the wire. I'm much more confident in these than the liquid electrical tape.
Hope this is useful.
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19 May 2016, 20:03
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Potting compound is good from rs supplies mix in the bag and pour best if you have a mould (plastic pipe)
Cheers
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19 May 2016, 20:31
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
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What are you using it for? Spray can doesn't sound like individual wires.
I've used it, it's messy and stinks. uses some -oluene thinner or something, not good in enclosed spaces. I prefer the heat shrink terminals like Iron Dials. Much better and easier in my opinion.
Jason
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19 May 2016, 22:06
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Isle of Man
Town: Peel, IOM
Length: no boat
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,511
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What I am thinking of doing is-
(this is to replace a bilge pump)
Use crimp butt connectors, crimping them, then heat sealing them, then using the liquid electrical tape to double-seal them, and then enclose the bundle of three heat/crimp connectors together in heat-shrink tubing. Then maybe liquid tape that.
Probably my electrical connections will literally live under water.
This should belt-and-braces the connections.
Or......?
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Brian
"Ribbing-the most expensive way of travelling third class"
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19 May 2016, 23:11
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#6
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 315
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You're even more thorough than me!
I used heat shrink butt connectors, individually covered with heat shrink sleeving, seemed more likely to achieve three small seals than one large seal around three butt connectors.
I staggered the joints so that there wasn't a wide point pushing against each other and mechanically weakening the joints.
So far so good (and a lot better than the previous installation)
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19 May 2016, 23:25
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#7
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Kerry
Boat name: Independence
Make: FunYak
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF10
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 123
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Liquid Electrical Tape
Look for self- amalgamating tape, it's like electrical tape but it's thicker rubber type and adheres to itself, becomes like a boot, you can't unwind it off again
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal...tape/?MDR=true
Usually about a fiver for a small roll
Hth
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20 May 2016, 13:32
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
What I am thinking of doing is-
(this is to replace a bilge pump)
Use crimp butt connectors, crimping them, then heat sealing them, then using the liquid electrical tape to double-seal them, and then enclose the bundle of three heat/crimp connectors together in heat-shrink tubing. Then maybe liquid tape that.
Probably my electrical connections will literally live under water.
This should belt-and-braces the connections.
Or......?
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Brian, times have moved on and nowadays there are watertight electrical connectors available which do a super, professional job - no bugring about as we used to do. Here's some advertised on ebay.
Connectors
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JW.
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20 May 2016, 13:35
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Noco
Look for self- amalgamating tape, it's like electrical tape but it's thicker rubber type and adheres to itself, becomes like a boot, you can't unwind it off again
Self Amalgamating Tape : 3M UK & Ireland
Usually about a fiver for a small roll
Hth
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Just for info...self-amalgamating tape amalgamates to itself but it doesn't amalgamate to the surface it is wrapped around so there is no guarantee of watertightness.
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JW.
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20 May 2016, 17:21
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Isle of Man
Town: Peel, IOM
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Posts: 2,511
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Wow, thanks Jeff-just what the doctor ordered-and so have I.
Asked for 1st. Class delivery-should get them Tuesday.
I didn't even know such a product existed!
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Brian
"Ribbing-the most expensive way of travelling third class"
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21 May 2016, 11:19
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
Wow, thanks Jeff-just what the doctor ordered-and so have I.
Asked for 1st. Class delivery-should get them Tuesday.
I didn't even know such a product existed!
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Just a wee follow-up. The terminals are designed to fit into a crimp tool, I've found it fine to close the 'ears' of the bare wire part using the tip of the side cutters, solder the joint and then fold over the strain relief part using pointy pliers. Depending on the diameter of your outer insulator, you may need to clip off a little from the strain relief ears. It sounds fiddly but it's easy once you've done one.
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JW.
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21 May 2016, 12:17
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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"Superseals" are great, but the one place I wouldn't use them is on a bilge pump as they aren't immersion proof, only splash proof.
I use them for control and dash panel connections, can be a pain to fit, and you need to get the right ones for the wire size you're using.
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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21 May 2016, 17:24
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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For amalgamateing you need a primer but potting compound best we use it for our divers hat cameras never fails you can also buy moulds but bit expensive.
Cheers
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21 May 2016, 17:51
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler
..... they aren't immersion proof, only splash proof....
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Dirk, I think you'll find they are IP67 rated which includes immersion between 150mm and 1mtr.
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JW.
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22 May 2016, 16:37
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Dirk, I think you'll find they are IP67 rated which includes immersion between 150mm and 1mtr.
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I think the better quality ones are, as used by Merc etc, but the cheap ones on Ebay are doubtful. Plus, they need to be the correct size for the wire, although a bit of sealant on the grommet/wire would help.
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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22 May 2016, 17:09
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
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Page 3 and page 8..... Download Data sheet
Be careful Dirk, you'll be falling foul of your own tag line!
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JW.
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23 May 2016, 12:17
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#17
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: Black Adder+BabyBlue
Make: Shearwater + Avon
Length: 8m +
Engine: TDi Diesel + Merc 60
MMSI: 235026679
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 980
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I've found these really good for bilge pump wiring. Galactic Mammut .There are three terminals so you can have permanent 12V, switched 12V and Ground (or whatever the wire back to the -ve terminal is called).
The boxes are filled with a sticky gel that is waterproof, but which also is re-workable so if you have a pump failure you can open the box and connect a replacement pump without needing crimp tools or heat gun (like you would with heat shrink connectors).
When you close the box again it is still waterproof (or at least mine was).
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23 May 2016, 16:03
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
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glue lined heat shrink terminals are great and they also add strength to any joints.
Duraseal are the ones we use however they are not the cheapest.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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24 May 2016, 13:53
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Page 3 and page 8..... Download Data sheet
Be careful Dirk, you'll be falling foul of your own tag line!
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your link won't work for me, but I suspect it's along the lines of no sealant...
Superseal 1.5 Series Wire Seal (Wire Size Options)
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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24 May 2016, 15:34
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
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When I saw Dirk Diggler a a poster on a thread about spray insulation tape my mind instantly thought of the Plaster Casters
For my money i'd be using Scotch Weld plotting compost. If its good enough to seal the wires on a Sat Divers Helmet it's good enough for a Bilge Pump.
DP270 Clear and Black Epoxy Potting Compound/Adhesive - 3M - Glue, Adhesives, Applicators | Online Catalog | DigiKey Electronics
As Jeff (not WJ) said you need a mould I always find it a good excuse to buy a Toob of Smarties, best to eat the Smarties before you use the toob as a mould.
Self amalgamating tape is hit and miss as far as I have experienced it
|Dirk stop arguing with WJ or you'll get put into detention ....Again!
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