main wiring loom too long

henryfreston · 07 May 2014, 21:40

The main wiring loom running from the control box to my outboard is far too long, I was just going to loop it up and cable tie it to the inside of the console but to be honest i would rather have it nice and neat.

Obviously it is a very vital cable so i am conscious that buggering it up would not be very smart.

What methods have other people used to shorten it? I was thing insulated butt connectors for individual wires then waterproof with glue lined shrink tube?

Oh and also what do you use to seal the trunk that contains all wires and cables where it meets the control box (don't want water running down it)

Henry

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2014, 21:51

Dont shorten it. Cable tie it up. If you cut it, you'll introduce a potential fail point.

henryfreston · 07 May 2014, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Dont shorten it. Cable tie it up. If you cut it, you'll introduce a potential fail point.

ok thanks

the only other thing i just thought was you could remove the plug from the end, shorten it, then re-attach the plug?

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2014, 21:58

Nope, leave it alone. The best original loom is an unmodified loom. Do anything to it and you'll get water tracking up the cables.

henryfreston · 07 May 2014, 22:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Nope, leave it alone. The best original loom is an unmodified loom. Do anything to it and you'll get water tracking up the cables.

cable ties it is

think i'm going to have to replace the loom from the trim send to the gauge, it is only working intermittently and has electrical tape left right and center. I presume it has some water in it.

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2014, 22:08

If it's only working intermittently I'd check the power feed and earth on the gauge 1st.

henryfreston · 07 May 2014, 22:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

If it's only working intermittently I'd check the power feed and earth on the gauge 1st.

right will give it a go when im down next in a couple of weeks with the plan to tiding everything up!

one quick question- is flowcoat ok to fill in gel coat chips on the chines?

sorry for question bombardment

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2014, 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by henryfreston

right will give it a go when im down next in a couple of weeks with the plan to tiding everything up!

one quick question- is flowcoat ok to fill in gel coat chips on the chines?

Yes, it's fine if they arent too deep. You know how to polish it etc so they don't show?

henryfreston · 07 May 2014, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Yes, it's fine if they arent too deep. You know how to polish it etc so they don't show?

not really, first time doing it. Well my first attempt failed because it didn't adhere to the gel coat? But then stupidly i didn't prepare the area with sanding etc.

So i presume you:

key area with around 240? grit
apply blob of flow
sand down the grades of sand paper until you get to 1200 grit, then polish?

Cheers

Nos4r2 · 07 May 2014, 23:46

Pretty much, but degrease with acetone or MEK or similar before you sand and again before you apply the gelcoat/flowcoat.

WEAR RUBBER GLOVES (not the blue mechanics ones as MEK and acetone dissolve them.
If they start to wrinkle like crazy, they're letting solvent through. Change them immediately.I use the black heavy duty Tesco ones-they don't seem to be destroyed by MEK)

If you're bothered about exact colour matching , 1200 grit and polish the area round the ding before you start sanding inside the ding.

You may find that you need to build it up with a couple of coats of gelcoat then add wax in styrene to the last coat to make it go off properly if it's a large chip.

Farecla Profile 300 is very very good for the polishing stage-you only need the one polish rather than going up in grades.

henryfreston · 08 May 2014, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Pretty much, but degrease with acetone or MEK or similar before you sand and again before you apply the gelcoat/flowcoat.

WEAR RUBBER GLOVES (not the blue mechanics ones as MEK and acetone dissolve them.
If they start to wrinkle like crazy, they're letting solvent through. Change them immediately.I use the black heavy duty Tesco ones-they don't seem to be destroyed by MEK)

If you're bothered about exact colour matching , 1200 grit and polish the area round the ding before you start sanding inside the ding.

You may find that you need to build it up with a couple of coats of gelcoat then add wax in styrene to the last coat to make it go off properly if it's a large chip.

Farecla Profile 300 is very very good for the polishing stage-you only need the one polish rather than going up in grades.

ok thanks for the advice! will give it a crack and hope it works out a bit better this time.