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05 February 2017, 21:43
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Mariner 40 hp not charging battery
I installed a split charge relay today only to find out my outboard doesent seen to be giving out as much volts as id like it to (electric start)
When the engines off my battery is at 12.6 and with on around 12.8 revving
I'm testing on muffs does that matter, someone said it may be because it's not on load but that just sounds weird..
I'm thinking my outboard should be giving out more volts than it is, so there's obviously a problem somewhere any help would be appreciated
Thanks
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05 February 2017, 23:51
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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I have a Yamaha 40hp and they made early mariner engines if your engine is an older model in a book I have all I can find it the coil resistance which is 0.23-0.33 ohms now the wires from the coil should go through a RR rectifier regulator, on the wires coming from the lighting coil to the reg unit if you unplug these and check the voltage coming out put your meter on AC and run the engine now you can get anywhere up to 40 volts so don't set meter to low if you get a decent reading 15+ volts then hook it up again check the voltage directly out of the regulator as you may have poor connection but my guess is a duff regulator
Just out of interest is it a twin two stroke
Stewart
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06 February 2017, 00:05
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Thanks il look into it, my engine is a 2 cylinder 2 stroke yeah
Thanks
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06 February 2017, 00:18
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Need anymore info just shout
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06 February 2017, 09:48
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Hi is it safe enough to start to start engine on muffs to test this thanks
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06 February 2017, 14:35
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexryan1984
Hi is it safe enough to start to start engine on muffs to test this thanks
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Hi Alex yeah safe enough to start it and run, just keep an eye on the water outlet that there's good flow , have you got an engine stand for it ?
Stewart
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06 February 2017, 18:34
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexryan1984
I installed a split charge relay today only to find out my outboard doesent seen to be giving out as much volts as id like it to (electric start)
When the engines off my battery is at 12.6 and with on around 12.8 revving
I'm testing on muffs does that matter, someone said it may be because it's not on load but that just sounds weird..
I'm thinking my outboard should be giving out more volts than it is, so there's obviously a problem somewhere any help would be appreciated
Thanks
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Is 12.8 v across the two wires off the flywheel ( not connected to the battery) my new Suzuki is 14.8 max
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06 February 2017, 19:13
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamsbairn
Hi Alex yeah safe enough to start it and run, just keep an eye on the water outlet that there's good flow , have you got an engine stand for it ?
Stewart
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No engine stand it's on the boat
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06 February 2017, 19:15
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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My electrician just tested the volts coming out the battery nothing else
Thanks
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06 February 2017, 22:50
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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You should be getting 13.4 volts approx this it to keep the battery up , a 12v battery is never 12v always higher and gets a higher input this is so that when you go to start the engine there is plenty cranking power for more than one try at starting. You should be getting a lot higher voltage going into the rectifier/regulator so that the out put voltage doesn't wander up and down too much and you get a fairly stable voltage that would be just over 12-12.5v idle and up to 13.5-14v when revd up
What is the reason for the split charger
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06 February 2017, 23:00
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Hi its to charge my leisure battery's I have 2 in Parralel
The electrician said it's charging but not enough to charge my batteries, it was around 12.8 at the highest
The relay doesent kick in till 13.7 I think which I'm not getting anywhere near
Cheers
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06 February 2017, 23:26
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexryan1984
Hi its to charge my leisure battery's I have 2 in Parralel
The electrician said it's charging but not enough to charge my batteries, it was around 12.8 at the highest
The relay doesent kick in till 13.7 I think which I'm not getting anywhere near
Cheers
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You should be get over that, personally I would have just left in parallel without the split charger, but that doesn't help with the low charging output, measure the output to the regulator and see what you get it will be AC volts
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06 February 2017, 23:35
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Yeah I'd like to think I'd get more, the electrician was talking about voltage enhancers etc but if there's a problem and this should be getting more volts I'd rather fix it
Job tommorow is to look to look for things that look like rectifiers/regulators etc
Here's a pic of my engine
https://s27.postimg.org/wiwhk8p6r/IMG_0505.jpg
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07 February 2017, 11:24
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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So what voltage is the charging coil producing disconnected from everything should bE your first test voltage reg could be down, have you tested your batteries to make sure you haven't a cell down or a high resistance connection.
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07 February 2017, 12:44
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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I have tried it with a few batteries, I'm not sure what I'm looking for at the minute all I have is a multimeter is that capable of testing what I need to thanks
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07 February 2017, 13:21
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Here's what I have tried to cover all angles
https://s28.postimg.org/n3q7ual7x/IMG_0511.jpg
https://s29.postimg.org/73xez3juv/IMG_0513.jpg
https://s23.postimg.org/iebg103ij/IMG_0517.jpg
https://s23.postimg.org/xk4wmml2j/IMG_0516.jpg
https://s30.postimg.org/49791eu01/IMG_0515.jpg
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07 February 2017, 13:36
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Disconnect the wires coming from the lighting coil these should be green, then measure the resistance through the coil that's your meter across the green wire with your meter on the lowest setting (prob 200 ohms) and nite the reading it should be low I would say less than two, then check between a green lead and the metal frame (meter set to K ohms) of the engine it should be open circuit. Now put your meter on AC volts and set to prob200 or 600 depending on your meter then start the engine and measure across the green at idle then half throttle then 2/4 then full and see what you get, depending on the readings governs the next move if you have voltage then reconnect the green wires to the rect/reg then two out her wires coming out of the reg disconnect them then start and run the engine and measure across them BUT with your meter on DC for a voltage 20 or next one up and run the engine the same way again
Make sure all the con cations are clean and tight before you start and finish , see how it goes and let us know also post a pic of the regulator and I will try and see if I can source one to suit :-)
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07 February 2017, 13:50
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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Sounds way out my depth, looks like I'll have to get someone to look at it for me
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07 February 2017, 14:12
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexryan1984
Sounds way out my depth, looks like I'll have to get someone to look at it for me ��
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You can do it the green wires from the magneto meter on AC volts run the engine measured what your getting if you got voltage let's us know then we will do next bit
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07 February 2017, 14:35
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 17
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The engine has to be started for this test yeah?its chucking it down at the minute so unable to test it just now, so green to red green/white to black on the meter set to 20 v-
Thanks
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