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Old 05 February 2017, 21:43   #1
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Mariner 40 hp not charging battery

I installed a split charge relay today only to find out my outboard doesent seen to be giving out as much volts as id like it to (electric start)

When the engines off my battery is at 12.6 and with on around 12.8 revving

I'm testing on muffs does that matter, someone said it may be because it's not on load but that just sounds weird..

I'm thinking my outboard should be giving out more volts than it is, so there's obviously a problem somewhere any help would be appreciated

Thanks
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Old 05 February 2017, 23:51   #2
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I have a Yamaha 40hp and they made early mariner engines if your engine is an older model in a book I have all I can find it the coil resistance which is 0.23-0.33 ohms now the wires from the coil should go through a RR rectifier regulator, on the wires coming from the lighting coil to the reg unit if you unplug these and check the voltage coming out put your meter on AC and run the engine now you can get anywhere up to 40 volts so don't set meter to low if you get a decent reading 15+ volts then hook it up again check the voltage directly out of the regulator as you may have poor connection but my guess is a duff regulator
Just out of interest is it a twin two stroke
Stewart
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Old 06 February 2017, 00:05   #3
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Thanks il look into it, my engine is a 2 cylinder 2 stroke yeah


Thanks
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Old 06 February 2017, 00:18   #4
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Need anymore info just shout
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Old 06 February 2017, 09:48   #5
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Hi is it safe enough to start to start engine on muffs to test this thanks
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Old 06 February 2017, 14:35   #6
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Hi is it safe enough to start to start engine on muffs to test this thanks
Hi Alex yeah safe enough to start it and run, just keep an eye on the water outlet that there's good flow , have you got an engine stand for it ?
Stewart
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Old 06 February 2017, 18:34   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexryan1984 View Post
I installed a split charge relay today only to find out my outboard doesent seen to be giving out as much volts as id like it to (electric start)

When the engines off my battery is at 12.6 and with on around 12.8 revving

I'm testing on muffs does that matter, someone said it may be because it's not on load but that just sounds weird..

I'm thinking my outboard should be giving out more volts than it is, so there's obviously a problem somewhere any help would be appreciated

Thanks
Is 12.8 v across the two wires off the flywheel ( not connected to the battery) my new Suzuki is 14.8 max
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Old 06 February 2017, 19:13   #8
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Hi Alex yeah safe enough to start it and run, just keep an eye on the water outlet that there's good flow , have you got an engine stand for it ?
Stewart
No engine stand it's on the boat
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Old 06 February 2017, 19:15   #9
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My electrician just tested the volts coming out the battery nothing else

Thanks
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Old 06 February 2017, 22:50   #10
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You should be getting 13.4 volts approx this it to keep the battery up , a 12v battery is never 12v always higher and gets a higher input this is so that when you go to start the engine there is plenty cranking power for more than one try at starting. You should be getting a lot higher voltage going into the rectifier/regulator so that the out put voltage doesn't wander up and down too much and you get a fairly stable voltage that would be just over 12-12.5v idle and up to 13.5-14v when revd up
What is the reason for the split charger
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Old 06 February 2017, 23:00   #11
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Hi its to charge my leisure battery's I have 2 in Parralel

The electrician said it's charging but not enough to charge my batteries, it was around 12.8 at the highest

The relay doesent kick in till 13.7 I think which I'm not getting anywhere near

Cheers
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Old 06 February 2017, 23:26   #12
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Hi its to charge my leisure battery's I have 2 in Parralel

The electrician said it's charging but not enough to charge my batteries, it was around 12.8 at the highest

The relay doesent kick in till 13.7 I think which I'm not getting anywhere near

Cheers
You should be get over that, personally I would have just left in parallel without the split charger, but that doesn't help with the low charging output, measure the output to the regulator and see what you get it will be AC volts
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Old 06 February 2017, 23:35   #13
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Yeah I'd like to think I'd get more, the electrician was talking about voltage enhancers etc but if there's a problem and this should be getting more volts I'd rather fix it

Job tommorow is to look to look for things that look like rectifiers/regulators etc

Here's a pic of my engine

https://s27.postimg.org/wiwhk8p6r/IMG_0505.jpg
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Old 07 February 2017, 11:24   #14
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So what voltage is the charging coil producing disconnected from everything should bE your first test voltage reg could be down, have you tested your batteries to make sure you haven't a cell down or a high resistance connection.
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Old 07 February 2017, 12:44   #15
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I have tried it with a few batteries, I'm not sure what I'm looking for at the minute all I have is a multimeter is that capable of testing what I need to thanks
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Old 07 February 2017, 13:21   #16
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Here's what I have tried to cover all angles


https://s28.postimg.org/n3q7ual7x/IMG_0511.jpg

https://s29.postimg.org/73xez3juv/IMG_0513.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/iebg103ij/IMG_0517.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/xk4wmml2j/IMG_0516.jpg

https://s30.postimg.org/49791eu01/IMG_0515.jpg
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Old 07 February 2017, 13:36   #17
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Disconnect the wires coming from the lighting coil these should be green, then measure the resistance through the coil that's your meter across the green wire with your meter on the lowest setting (prob 200 ohms) and nite the reading it should be low I would say less than two, then check between a green lead and the metal frame (meter set to K ohms) of the engine it should be open circuit. Now put your meter on AC volts and set to prob200 or 600 depending on your meter then start the engine and measure across the green at idle then half throttle then 2/4 then full and see what you get, depending on the readings governs the next move if you have voltage then reconnect the green wires to the rect/reg then two out her wires coming out of the reg disconnect them then start and run the engine and measure across them BUT with your meter on DC for a voltage 20 or next one up and run the engine the same way again
Make sure all the con cations are clean and tight before you start and finish , see how it goes and let us know also post a pic of the regulator and I will try and see if I can source one to suit :-)
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Old 07 February 2017, 13:50   #18
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Sounds way out my depth, looks like I'll have to get someone to look at it for me ��
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Old 07 February 2017, 14:12   #19
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Sounds way out my depth, looks like I'll have to get someone to look at it for me ��
You can do it the green wires from the magneto meter on AC volts run the engine measured what your getting if you got voltage let's us know then we will do next bit
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Old 07 February 2017, 14:35   #20
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The engine has to be started for this test yeah?its chucking it down at the minute so unable to test it just now, so green to red green/white to black on the meter set to 20 v-

Thanks
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