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30 June 2011, 10:09
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: York
Boat name: Sugar Free
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 119
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Nav lights problem
i wired up my lights on the RIB this was hand wired i.e. individual resistors and LEDs on the panel. It worked ok.
I then replaced the switches with a commercial panel made by Blue Sea Systems that had the LEDs built in. They also have circuit breakers.
Oddly there are a lot less wires but it does not work. Anyone come across this before?
Thanks
Gary
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30 June 2011, 12:27
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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You've run a negative wire to the panel have you so that the LED's are properly in the circuit.
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30 June 2011, 13:13
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: York
Boat name: Sugar Free
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin
You've run a negative wire to the panel have you so that the LED's are properly in the circuit.
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Yes wired that in. The actual result was that the LEDs dont light up AND the main lights don't go on either.
As if the circuit breakers are not passing current. Next thing to do will be to put a meter on it.
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30 June 2011, 13:42
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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Dodgy switch or breaker I 'spose
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30 June 2011, 14:06
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#5
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Rosas
Boat name: Conqueror
Make: Valiant
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard 150hp Merc
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryC
Yes wired that in. The actual result was that the LEDs dont light up AND the main lights don't go on either.
As if the circuit breakers are not passing current. Next thing to do will be to put a meter on it.
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Hmmm, are you saying that the actual result was nothing working AFTER you ran the negative up there OR did nothing ever work? If "after", it's not designed to switch on the negative side is it?
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30 June 2011, 14:24
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Courageous
it's not designed to switch on the negative side is it?
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Nope obviously not - but you need a negative up there for the LED's to work. They need to be parallel to the nav lights not in series otherwise they'd cause a voltage drop. The nav light switch only obviously needs to be single pole switching the live.
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30 June 2011, 14:50
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#7
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Rosas
Boat name: Conqueror
Make: Valiant
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard 150hp Merc
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 549
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Errm.... "Obviously not" - why so? My boat is switched on the negative side....... I have a certain amount of experience with electrics as an ex marine engineer.
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30 June 2011, 15:05
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: York
Boat name: Sugar Free
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 119
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The negative feed is a very thin wire for the LEDs it goes off to the Negative distribution at the same point as the actual lights.
The fused (+)ve feed is commoned across the breakers. There are 3 breakers on this unit (small with some sort of mechanical switch on the face plate)
The (+)ve feed from each breaker is wired to a corresponding switch, which each has its own (+) output to the lights. [Each switch has a common (-)ve feed for the LEDs.
The lights worked with the old config (home soldered) of switches and LED's All worked ok.
The new unit has 5 wires. I/C (+)ve feed commoned across the breakers.
(-)ve for the LED's and 3 switched (+)ve output.
Now Nothing works at all.
On the panel each breaker (of 3) has a rubber cap covered flicky thing. It is not totally obvious whether this should work or whether some sort of proding with the finger activates it.
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30 June 2011, 15:15
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#9
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Rosas
Boat name: Conqueror
Make: Valiant
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard 150hp Merc
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 549
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OK Gary, can you try linking a piece of cable across the breaker taking it out of the circuit and see if that works? Next try the switch for the circuit. If neither help then try bridging from the input to one breaker across to the output of it's switch. That last one should obviously work. In this manner you should be able to tell if it's one or both of those components or a different wiring issue. The final question is regarding the rubber covered items of course........ Resets?
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30 June 2011, 15:25
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Courageous
Errm.... "Obviously not" - why so?
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Simply because Gary has confirmed that he needed to provide a negative for the LED's and the BlueSea units are designed/wired up to switch the positive otherwise you would be reverse biasing the LED's.
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30 June 2011, 15:26
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#11
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Rosas
Boat name: Conqueror
Make: Valiant
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard 150hp Merc
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 549
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Ok so I see from Gary's description. Not familiar with that particular unit. Can you answer his query regarding the purpose of those rubber items then?
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30 June 2011, 15:36
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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I don't know what they are, but as you also thought, my best guess is that they are the reset button for the breaker.
This is the panel I presume
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30 June 2011, 15:59
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: York
Boat name: Sugar Free
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin
I don't know what they are, but as you also thought, my best guess is that they are the reset button for the breaker.
This is the panel I presume
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Yes thats it (although mine is a 3 way with the switches working left to right)
Shorting the breaker is probably a valid test. (after testing with meter)
Thanks
Gary
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30 June 2011, 21:27
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#14
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Rosas
Boat name: Conqueror
Make: Valiant
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard 150hp Merc
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 549
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Well good luck Gary!
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