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Old 30 June 2011, 10:09   #1
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Nav lights problem

i wired up my lights on the RIB this was hand wired i.e. individual resistors and LEDs on the panel. It worked ok.

I then replaced the switches with a commercial panel made by Blue Sea Systems that had the LEDs built in. They also have circuit breakers.

Oddly there are a lot less wires but it does not work. Anyone come across this before?

Thanks

Gary
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Old 30 June 2011, 12:27   #2
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You've run a negative wire to the panel have you so that the LED's are properly in the circuit.
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Old 30 June 2011, 13:13   #3
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You've run a negative wire to the panel have you so that the LED's are properly in the circuit.
Yes wired that in. The actual result was that the LEDs dont light up AND the main lights don't go on either.

As if the circuit breakers are not passing current. Next thing to do will be to put a meter on it.
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Old 30 June 2011, 13:42   #4
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Dodgy switch or breaker I 'spose
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Old 30 June 2011, 14:06   #5
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Quote:
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Yes wired that in. The actual result was that the LEDs dont light up AND the main lights don't go on either.

As if the circuit breakers are not passing current. Next thing to do will be to put a meter on it.
Hmmm, are you saying that the actual result was nothing working AFTER you ran the negative up there OR did nothing ever work? If "after", it's not designed to switch on the negative side is it?
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Old 30 June 2011, 14:24   #6
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it's not designed to switch on the negative side is it?
Nope obviously not - but you need a negative up there for the LED's to work. They need to be parallel to the nav lights not in series otherwise they'd cause a voltage drop. The nav light switch only obviously needs to be single pole switching the live.
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Old 30 June 2011, 14:50   #7
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Errm.... "Obviously not" - why so? My boat is switched on the negative side....... I have a certain amount of experience with electrics as an ex marine engineer.
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:05   #8
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The negative feed is a very thin wire for the LEDs it goes off to the Negative distribution at the same point as the actual lights.

The fused (+)ve feed is commoned across the breakers. There are 3 breakers on this unit (small with some sort of mechanical switch on the face plate)

The (+)ve feed from each breaker is wired to a corresponding switch, which each has its own (+) output to the lights. [Each switch has a common (-)ve feed for the LEDs.

The lights worked with the old config (home soldered) of switches and LED's All worked ok.

The new unit has 5 wires. I/C (+)ve feed commoned across the breakers.
(-)ve for the LED's and 3 switched (+)ve output.

Now Nothing works at all.

On the panel each breaker (of 3) has a rubber cap covered flicky thing. It is not totally obvious whether this should work or whether some sort of proding with the finger activates it.
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:15   #9
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OK Gary, can you try linking a piece of cable across the breaker taking it out of the circuit and see if that works? Next try the switch for the circuit. If neither help then try bridging from the input to one breaker across to the output of it's switch. That last one should obviously work. In this manner you should be able to tell if it's one or both of those components or a different wiring issue. The final question is regarding the rubber covered items of course........ Resets?
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:25   #10
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Errm.... "Obviously not" - why so?
Simply because Gary has confirmed that he needed to provide a negative for the LED's and the BlueSea units are designed/wired up to switch the positive otherwise you would be reverse biasing the LED's.
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:26   #11
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Ok so I see from Gary's description. Not familiar with that particular unit. Can you answer his query regarding the purpose of those rubber items then?
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:36   #12
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I don't know what they are, but as you also thought, my best guess is that they are the reset button for the breaker.

This is the panel I presume
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Old 30 June 2011, 15:59   #13
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I don't know what they are, but as you also thought, my best guess is that they are the reset button for the breaker.

This is the panel I presume
Yes thats it (although mine is a 3 way with the switches working left to right)

Shorting the breaker is probably a valid test. (after testing with meter)

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Old 30 June 2011, 21:27   #14
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Well good luck Gary!
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