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11 July 2004, 18:27
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Rewire update
I have most of the wiring in place, fitted a fuel gauge, Radio etc. Just going to start the final and most fiddly bit, the termination to the new terminal/fuse board. Still a bit to do.
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11 July 2004, 19:35
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Zulu
Make: Humber oceanpro
Length: 5m +
Engine: 75 Etec
MMSI: 235016713
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 168
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Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass
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11 July 2004, 19:56
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#3
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Member
Country: Other
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 344
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whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where
is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!
and not a wire in sight all infra red
p
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11 July 2004, 20:59
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arn.george
Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass
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Not much room to put things, if i have a problem i might fit a fluxgate in the bottom of the console.
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11 July 2004, 21:01
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackeen
whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where
is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!
and not a wire in sight all infra red
p
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The sink is at the rear as for the wheel, i have a secret device to keep my hands warm......called willowkis
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11 July 2004, 21:50
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?
Is that a new steering wheel too?
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JW.
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11 July 2004, 21:56
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#7
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RIBnet supporter
Country: Iceland
Town: Reykjavik
Boat name: Cheesee
Make: Seaquel 600 XS
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 275 Verado
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,959
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Wow Chris this is neat how you haf fit all in, an surely you will not be out of communications. What a woman Willowkis if she can keep your warm in the winter time, Steinunn will freeze me for sure
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11 July 2004, 22:24
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?
Is that a new steering wheel too?
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Thanks, yes they are IP67 so are the leds and S/Steel they have a silicone rubber seal at the base of the toggle..not cheap but good quality. the previous switches had rubber covers over the toggles but they seem to perish in no time. the LEDS have an O ring seal behind the flange. The steering wheel is original.
I wil post some pics of the wiring when its complete, i have wired discreet circuits to each load, both neg and pos, so that i wont have groups of things fail if i lose an earth. I have put an extra Auto bilge pump(there are now three) with the ability to switch all on or just the Auto for when its left unattended.
All the connector blocks and fuse blocks are marine with S/steel components, I decided on fuses as i thought they may be more reliable given the pounding a hull gets.
All the connections are soldered to tinned eyed connectors and then sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. in line connections to cables are soldered, sleeved and then wrapped in self amalgamating tape rather than using crimp connectors.
I am going to use one battery for starting and one for the equipment with a DC to DC charger, the equipment supply will be fused at the battery and then again in the console. (the existing wiring was a liability, they had used a piece of three core mains cable from the battery to the console without a sign of a fuse)
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11 July 2004, 22:34
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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It sounds good. I certainly go along with the discreet circuit principle.
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JW.
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12 July 2004, 10:13
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Saltash, Cornwall
Make: Rib less:-(
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 693
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Hi Chrisallse
Question why have you gone down the route of soldering?
In PBO and other publications you see 'experts' saying not to solder but to use crimps as the flux in the solder can eat the metal away.
On ships you need to fit multistrand wire so when vibration finally causes a strand to break you dont get an open circuit.
When you solder you create a single strand, though crimping must do the same.
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James
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12 July 2004, 12:43
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jelly
Hi Chrisallse
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James
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Makes sense to me ....Thanks!
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Here it comes again, I don't stand a chance
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12 July 2004, 20:27
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jelly
Hi Chrisallse
Question why have you gone down the route of soldering?
In PBO and other publications you see 'experts' saying not to solder but to use crimps as the flux in the solder can eat the metal away.
On ships you need to fit multistrand wire so when vibration finally causes a strand to break you dont get an open circuit.
When you solder you create a single strand, though crimping must do the same.
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James
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Hi James,
Dont like crimps find them unreliable particularly on plain copper wire as the wire wicks up the salt laden moisture...if you cut an old cable back a metre the copper will be black. dont understand why the flux in good quality solder would "eat the metal" as every piece of electronis equipment on a boat has solder connections....its not as if you use Bakers Fluid for electrical work.
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17 July 2004, 19:39
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Still going
here are a few pics of the rewire, view inside the console of the main panel and the rear of the Switch panel..........ever wished you hadn't started something?
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17 July 2004, 20:16
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Chris, you've switched both the +ve and -ve supply?
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JW.
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17 July 2004, 20:18
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham, Berkshire
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115 hp Mariner Four
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Chris, you've switched both the +ve and -ve supply?
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Is there a problem with that? It looks like spaghetti junction to me...
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17 July 2004, 20:20
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Yes, everything has a completely separate supply with DP switches.
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17 July 2004, 20:24
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willowkis
Is there a problem with that? It looks like spaghetti junction to me...
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Sorry Willow, I was just askin'.
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JW.
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17 July 2004, 20:26
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham, Berkshire
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115 hp Mariner Four
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Sorry Willow, I was just askin'.
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Oooh you've got me wrong....... I thought there may have been a problem?
Kim
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17 July 2004, 20:40
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Nah, I thought maybe there was an anti-earthloop strategy, or somethin'.
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JW.
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19 July 2004, 16:42
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Margate / Ramsgate
Boat name: Bumbl
Make: Scorpion
Length: 8m +
Engine: Yanmar diesel
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,837
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Is the 601 new? I (may) be wrong but i seam to remember you can't connect the 'command mic' to the front socket of this radio... only the supplied standard speaker mic.
Also have you rigged up the hailer output to a loudspeaker - the auto foghorn is very good.
Superb work BTW. Been there, done that and i know how long it all takes. It's also very comforting, however, to be at sea knowing you wired it yourself!!!
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