Rib Rewire

Willfrench · 04 April 2021, 21:52

Hi guys,

New to the forum, and just wanted to see if anyone could help. I’m also new to wiring!

The boat I have is a yam 480 that has been bodged to the extreme wiring wise. I want to start again with it all...

The negative currently comes off the engine to the battery, but there also another negative going directly to the battery switch. Then there is a live straight from the battery up to the switch.

Then there is only what can be described as a complete mess up to the switch panel. I want to make it all safe and add a domestic battery. So I just wondered if anyone had a basic wiring diagram on where to start, and some basic principles... oh and the engine is a yam 50 carburettor model.

Also have a quick question on a couple of things on the boat, I have a stray tube coming up from the leg, but can’t seem to upload the images. And also a wire out of the control box, with green black yellow and red wires. Any help would be much appreciated!

HDAV · 04 April 2021, 22:01

Welcome how are you accessing the forum? That may answer image issues

The wires from control may be for features you don’t have, power trim/tilt?

Quite a few online guides you want to add second battery? lol for guides on wiring dual batts also what’s on the switch panel? Where is it fused?

Images would help.....

Willfrench · 04 April 2021, 22:15

Through my phone and when I try to upload the images it says not valid file.

I do have power trim tilt which all works fine, no display that I can see, that’s of any use at least so maybe it’s that?

I’ve just found a page on the blue seas site so I think I may be mainly sorted on that. So I guess my post has migrated to what these wires and the tube are, I’ll try and upload from a computer tomorrow. One thing I’m slightly confused on, is why I have two earths coming from the engine...

Iron Dials · 04 April 2021, 22:53

Hi Will,

I used Bluesea products ( https://www.bluesea.com/systems ) and website for planning.
12Voltplanet for wiring and connector supplies, I over engineered.

Daunting but not rocket science, and nobody wants a self-induced electrical fire, so take your time in the planning phase. Lots of help here too.

I had approached a respected “marine electrician “ who stated that he just put 30amp fuses in everything. Thanked him politely and never contacted him again.

It all worked out with Bluesea website circuit plans and google, but I’m a bit obsessive.

If it’s not your thing just make sure you find a contractor who understands ohms law and fire at sea...

HDAV · 04 April 2021, 23:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iron Dials

I had approached a respected “marine electrician “ who stated that he just put 30amp fuses in everything. Thanked him politely and never contacted him again..

As long as the cable was rated for the current I don’t see the issue

As for 2 earths..... 2 -ve isn’t unusual they all connect together so sometimes easier to take 2 from a good sized lug than try and connect them all to the battery post

Iron Dials · 04 April 2021, 23:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDAV

As long as the cable was rated for the current I don’t see the issue

I think rated to 30 amps was the issue.

Current that blows what should be 5A fuse can heat up a metal box electronics quite a lot by the time a 30A fuse blows, but each to their own.

Having bought a piece of electrical misadventure it makes no sense to knowingly pay someone to do it wrong a second time.

jakew009 · 04 April 2021, 23:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iron Dials

I think rated to 30 amps was the issue.

Current that blows what should be 5A fuse can heat up a metal box electronics quite a lot by the time a 30A fuse blows, but each to their own.

Having bought a piece of electrical misadventure it makes no sense to knowingly pay someone to do it wrong a second time.

It appears to me there is a hell of a lot of shocking wiring jobs done by so called professionals in the marine industry.

spartacus · 05 April 2021, 08:51

Quote:

Also have a quick question on a couple of things on the boat, I have a stray tube coming up from the leg, but can’t seem to upload the images. And also a wire out of the control box, with green black yellow and red wires. Any help would be much appreciated!

The tube will be outboard pitot pick-up for speedometer. Notoriously unreliable. Forget it and get a hand-held GPS and console mount.

The wires, suspect for tachometer (unless one is already fitted) if it's off the control box. Again an important bit of kit to see the rpm on your engine and to make sure you're running the right prop, tick-over idle speed, etc.

Ribtecer · 05 April 2021, 09:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Again an important bit of kit to see the rpm on your engine and to make sure you're running the right prop, tick-over idle speed, etc.

This may be a daft question Spartacus, but how can you tell from a tacho whether you have the right or wrong prop?

Many thanks.

Pikey Dave · 05 April 2021, 10:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ribtecer

This may be a daft question Spartacus, but how can you tell from a tacho whether you have the right or wrong prop?

Many thanks.

Because only by using a tachometer can you tell if the prop is the correct pitch. Your engine will have a sweet spot Wide Open Throttle (WOT) Rev range, normally between 5600-6300rpm depending on engine make/model. If you are under revving at WOT, you are overpropped I.e. the prop pitch is to high. If you are over revving at WOT, or hitting the Rev limiter, then you’re under propped, I.e the prop pitch is too low.
Only by using a tacho can you determine what’s what.

Iankristy · 05 April 2021, 18:55

[ATTACH]136874
This was posted on Ribnet recently and seems to me a good starting point [emoji106]