Ribcraft 4.8m commercial

[spartacus]

Just picked up my new Ribcraft 4.8m commercial at the weekend. Now starts the task of fitting her out. I'm powering her with a mint 2006 Tohatsu 60hp 2-stroke. My question is regards the electrics. Does anyone have a basic diagram for wiring electrics?

I want to keep it relatively basic. The Tohatsu is an electric start engine and the 12v battery will be secured in the console. Electrics, I'm adding...

1/ Perko light pole (mounted on stern)
2/ Tohatsu analogue tacho
3/ Plastimo 75 illuminated compass
4/ Anchor locker light

The Garmin GPS and VHF will be hand-held with marine mounts, so no need for electric supply.

I know the battery needs a cut off switch and a switch panel with inline fuses (4-6 switches) would give me the adaptability if I need to further electrics in due course.

[jyasaki]

Motor gets wired directly to battery (through an isolator switch, if desired.)

I would run Buss lines to a couple of distribution panels, and tap the power and grounds for the lights and such from there (otherwise, you get too many wires coming into the battery.) The positive signals should go through a fused switch panel, then out to the accessory. The grounds get tied directly to the ground buss bar.


Just looked at your list: No running lights? Or did you miss them?

You can get a 3-way rocker switch for Anchor Light/Off/Anchor+Side lights, which will eliminate one switch from the panel. The Compass light can be wired in with the running lights (unless you have a need for a heading while not moving.) Same with the tach. Always good to have a couple of empty switches, as you always need to add other accessories later.

Use decent quality tinned copper wire, and make sure you waterproof the connectors (I like the adhesive lined shrink tubing fittings, but YMMV.)

jky

[spartacus]

Thanks for that jyasaki.

I forgot to mention running lights. Not sure where to place them - I assume either side of the console. Not planning on putting an A-frame on, as I'm limited by height regards storage, although I know there are tiltable A-frames on the market. It's all money. Spent a small fortune getting this far, and I reckon it will be another few hundred pounds to finish the job. Perko do some very nice nav lights - just gotta watch I don't turn her into a T-bird complete with white-wall tyres!

[Downhilldai]

Personal choice, but I don't like the combined switch & fuse panels. I prefer a fusebox inside the console (dry) and a separate bank of switches mounted on the console face. My choice would be a six way Blue Sea fusebox with negative bus and Carling rocker switches, mounted in a small panel. All these are available from www.asap-supplies.com.

For the anchor locker, you could use a small, battery powered LED light - saves running a separate cable and won't kill the battery if/when you leave it switched on You can get self adhesive ones for a pound or two. I've got one inside the console and it does a fine job.

You should have your all round white light on the boat's centreline and 1m above the sidelights, which is difficult to achieve without an A-Frame.

Use an isolator, as jky recommended - best to also have this inside the console, 'cos they don't like getting wet.

[spartacus]

Cheers Downhilldai - all valid points. Keep you posted regards the build.

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Personal choice, but I don't like the combined switch & fuse panels. I prefer a fusebox inside the console (dry) and a separate bank of switches mounted on the console face. My choice would be a six way Blue Sea fusebox with negative bus and Carling rocker switches, mounted in a small panel. All these are available from www.asap-supplies.com.

For the anchor locker, you could use a small, battery powered LED light - saves running a separate cable and won't kill the battery if/when you leave it switched on You can get self adhesive ones for a pound or two. I've got one inside the console and it does a fine job.

You should have your all round white light on the boat's centreline and 1m above the sidelights, which is difficult to achieve without an A-Frame.

Use an isolator, as jky recommended - best to also have this inside the console, 'cos they don't like getting wet.