Ribtec 535 rewire

[HMJB]

Hi

I have an old Ribtec 535 and want to install some simple electrics.

There were the remnants of some old wiring for nav lights, which I have removed, which run to a switch in the console. I will replace this with a new switch.

The engine and taco are wired in, but nothing else.

All I want to install are new nav lights and a fish finder.

Wandered if anyone had a supplier they would recommend?

Also any pointers to a basic wiring diagram online that I could use. Have watched a few YouTube videos, but not found any diagrams.

Thanks

Hartley

[spartacus]

Can't offer any advice on a wiring diagram, however I'm sure others will be able to help.

In terms of suppliers and tools, then this is what I'd be buying. For switches, then Carling switches are excellent. For wiring, then go for tinned cable throughout. For fuse box and a battery isolator, then Blue Sea are quality bits of kit. Get a crimping tool, self amalgamating tape, heat shrink and a soldering iron. Other sundries such as LED bulbs would be the way to go instead of filament fir the navigation lights. Rubber grommets are also useful if feeding into A-Frame to avoid chaffing.

Any new holes you cut in the console, then seal with Sikaflex 291. Any excess can be cleaned off with white spirit.

Good luck!

[HMJB]

Thanks Spartacus, much appreciated.

Will have a look at those suppliers - just need to work out how to put it all together! Sure I will.....

[kalin]

I think this will be helpful: https://www.bluesea.com/systems

[HMJB]

Thanks Kalin - that's perfect - explains a lot.

[GuyC]

12v Planet are good for cable and terminals etc
Kojaycat are also popular

LED nav lights, whilst expensive, are very good.
I'm partial to Bluesea stuff
12V Planet do two and three core tinned cable.

I ran a round three core cable from the console to a small Index Marine junction box on the A-frame. From the junction box I ran three lengths of round two core cable to the port light, stbd light and all round white light.

The two core has a positive and negative. The three core is port and stbd light, all round white light and negative. You can then use the all round white light as an anchor light separate to the nav lights.

The Bluesea website has some useful info on it. The instructions for the fuse boxes and switches are often accompanied by little wiring diagrams. I've used their ST Blade fuse blocks and Weatherdeck switches.

I'd recommend using tinned cable and heat shrink adhesive lined terminals.

Having suggested you go and spend a small fortune on Bluesea stuff, you can do something similar on a minimal budget. A couple of in line fuses and a couple of waterproof rocker switches from 12V Planet would get you to a similar position. I'd still recommend tinned cable as replacing lengths of cable is a pain in the arse.

[AaronW]

• Keep it as simple as possible.
• Simple = More Reliable = Easier to Service
• Take care you do the fusing correctly.
• Terminal Blocks or Bus bars make connecting up so much easier.
• There are plenty of online guides.https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/

[jakew009]

If you literally just want a plotter and a set of nav lights...

[Searider]

I fitted one of these when I rewired my RIB: https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover

Isolator switch by the battery.
Positive and negative run to the fuse block above in the console.
Switches on the console between the fuse block and equipment.
Made things very simple.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jakew009

If you literally just want a plotter and a set of nav lights...

Personally I’d want an isolator in there, as close to the battery +ve as possible. I’d also fit a fused +ve battery terminal clamp like this:-

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/batte...ube-fuses.html

[HMJB]

Hi All - thanks, really helpful.

Jake - thanks for the diagram.

Having thought about it and as I really only want nav lights and fish finder, I think something along the lines of Jake's diagram, with maybe an isolator and fused +ve added in will be a) about my level of competence! & b) be all I really need.

Thanks again

[jakew009]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Personally I’d want an isolator in there, as close to the battery +ve as possible. I’d also fit a fused +ve battery terminal clamp like this:-

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/batte...ube-fuses.html

Agree, but if the distance between the fuse and the battery was kept to just a few inches, the actual 'risk' is pretty low to non existent

Maybe one of those combined isolator / battery terminals would be a good option.

[Donie]

I’m doing a similar job on my Zodiac at the moment. It had a set of Carling switches and a holder in the dash so I replaced the switch units.
I was going to use a 4 way switch panel with a usb plug like this Products — Connexwire but it wouldn’t fit where I needed it to go.
I would suggest adding a USB socket and A cigarette Lighter socket. Great for charging stuff.
I used Ancor tinned wire and a Bluesea negative bus bar and isolator.
Try this link to a photo I took from a PBO Project Book of a wiring diagram. https://i.postimg.cc/zBh8jPBj/B882-C...-AD93-CE89.jpg

[HDAV]

Do yourself a favour fit 6/8 way panel with resettable fuses that way you can have nav lights and fish finder, but you have spare ways at the console for (usb outlets, vhf, bilge pump etc)

A bit of forward planning will make life much easier in future

This looks a handy little unit https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Force-...l-and-Horn/94H

[jakew009]

Originally Posted by HDAV

Do yourself a favour fit 6/8 way panel with resettable fuses that way you can have nav lights and fish finder, but you have spare ways at the console for (usb outlets, vhf, bilge pump etc)

A bit of forward planning will make life much easier in future

This looks a handy little unit https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Force-...l-and-Horn/94H

I’m not sure how well something like that would hold up on a rib. Looks more designed for inside a cabin of a yacht.

I’d avoid resettable circuit breakers for exactly that reason. Fuses are cheap and reliable and easily sourced / swapped in an emergency.
And there’s no reason for any of the fuses to ever blow. If they blow more than once in a blue moon in a fault situation, there’s something wrong with your wiring.

I also don’t necessarily agree with the advice to fit a fuse box. A lot of the cheap fuse boxes are nasty and not marine rated at all with crappy spade terminals. There’s nothing wrong with 4 or even 6 inline fuses coming off the battery or isolator terminal if done neatly.

[HDAV]

Was an example of a small panel not a recommendation to use

I’ve never blow a fuse while underway, but certainly wouldn’t want to try and replace one in anything but ideal conditions ie on dry land......once you add 2 extra connections to the battery lug it’s going to start getting cramped much better to fit a small multi-way even if fitted close to battery rather than helm the combined switch panel fuse holder can be a neat solution and plenty out on the market but I would take extra waterproofing precautions, often glanding is the hardest bit to get right

[GuyC]

That's one of the interesting bits of our hobby. There are any number of ways to skin the cat dependent on budget, technical competence and attitude to risk. Whilst I'm not sure I'd agree with all the options presented, most of them would work.