sib electronics & electric installation

[jeffstevens763@g]

after my new glassfiber coated plywood dash/bow dodger thread and noticing some doing rewires for next season i thought i would do my installation of the electrics etc for a simple setup which allows for easy access to all components on my sib.
my dash hatch top side isn't very big to mess with wiring so i set it up to remove the acrylic plate with all the electronics on it by just undoing 4 screws.

the wiring itself was a bit untidy but it needs extra wire to be able to come off the dash and sit on the floor or bench seat, my limitations are the bulkhead needs to be strong because it's very light so cutting the whole thing out & fitting everything on the acrylic sheet and just running two wires to the battery isn't an option hence three routes for the wires through the bulkhead, it's not a problem just i have three looms of wire instead of one. i spiral wrapped the looms to give abrasion resistance and keep the wire together & tidy.
all the wiring from the stern runs through black sink waste with 90 degree bends where needed and fixed to my floor side rail, keeps it protected and neat, i shifted my VHF aerial to the stern where it gets less affected by wave action, the blob of black on it is foam with shrink wrap on it which offers wind resistance to help stop whipping for info.
a simple wiring diagram is attached, i have limited my amp rating to 10A with a main fuse on the battery then through the isolator switch to the fuse board. the battery is a 20 amp hour gel battery fastened down with bungee cord easy and quick to take out if needed. the fuse board i got off ebay £22 & is spot on with a -ve bus bar and a twist lock cover standard blade fuses x 6 more than i need.
wiring wise i used crimps with the insulation taken off a shrink wrap threaded over the wire well down then soldered the crimp ensuring it tinned the wire as much as poss then shrink wrapped the terminal. I didn't use tinned wire because i didn't have any plus my radio isn't tinned, it's all in a waterproof hatched compartment & insulated throughout right up to the connectors.if it does get wet the wiring will be the least of my problems but confidant i won't have any issues.

[jeffstevens763@g]

it's not the neatest of installations but i did find when i set my other one up neatly wired with no slack it was a pain when i had a loose conection getting at it especially at sea through the hatch 280 x 320 mm max access.i put a small side hatch in so i can get at the fuse board which saves opening the top hatch if the weather is inclement.

hope that is of use to someone.
cheers

[Bern Hanreck]

Jeff , if you were unlucky enough to suffer an electrical fire at the battery or fusebox , could you grab the extinguisher in a hurry ? Regards Bern .

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Bern Hanreck

Jeff , if you were unlucky enough to suffer an electrical fire at the battery or fusebox , could you grab the extinguisher in a hurry ? Regards Bern .

not the best place Bern i'll give you that but given that i have an isolator and 10 amp fuse in the short +ve leg and spade connectors on the battery that pull off in a jiff plus i have a leatherman with pliers on velcro on the dash face for cutting hot wires,and nothing that will short the terminals out in there floating about my risk assessment is to keep the extinguisher dry away from salt water so it works and part of my boat checks are to lift the lid and have a look for signs of wear/loose connections.
my 4x4 has nothing like the ability to cut the battery off as this set up are we too over causious.
i did try it in a dry bag but they wear through with constant pounding.
have to do some research see if there's a marine grade one that will stand the elements and bolt it external