Starting problems ( again ! )

PeterM · 25 February 2009, 12:21

So - having put the boat in Monday it starts fine , yesterday not a chance . New batteries still have no affect .

So electrician pitches up - & there is 5v (!) drop between batteries (and gauges) & the engine! No wonder it wont bloody go ! Everything looks OK on the outside - charged batteries & Volts display OK, switches good & clean, new terminals etc.

So the cables are now being pulled out of the runs & replaced in the next few days.

I'm assuming there must be a break' kink of some kind in there to cause this - any other ideas ?

Am I right in thinking that the cables that carry the ' full 'ampage to the starter dont run into the ignition switch/ key ? - this just has the low V circuit that throws the relay to fire up the main starting circuit ? On this basis changing the cables between battery & engine should be simple ? ( simple as possible any way after pulling them under the deck ? )

Avocet · 25 February 2009, 12:28

Sorry to hear of your problems.

The popular fault at the moment (with Suzuki 250s anyway) is corrosion in the connection block by which the cables connect to the engine. It would be worth checking the voltage either side of the connection block to see if that is where the drop is.

bedajim · 25 February 2009, 13:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackroady

So - having put the boat in Monday it starts fine , yesterday not a chance . New batteries still have no affect .

So electrician pitches up - & there is 5v (!) drop between batteries (and gauges) & the engine! No wonder it wont bloody go ! Everything looks OK on the outside - charged batteries & Volts display OK, switches good & clean, new terminals etc.

So the cables are now being pulled out of the runs & replaced in the next few days.

I'm assuming there must be a break' kink of some kind in there to cause this - any other ideas ?

Am I right in thinking that the cables that carry the ' full 'ampage to the starter dont run into the ignition switch/ key ? - this just has the low V circuit that throws the relay to fire up the main starting circuit ? On this basis changing the cables between battery & engine should be simple ? ( simple as possible any way after pulling them under the deck ? )

Can you not put the battery on a set of jump leads to the motor terminals and then try it to bypass the existing cables before you rip it apart or make up a new set of leads and try them before fitting ?

I got my tinned cable from these people they will also supply the ends but you can buy them from most wholesalers who normally have the crimp tools to hire or borrow

http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/Ancho...htm?P1354-S39-

When fitted I'd spray this over the contacts to protect them(I use it on most electrical bits on the rib)

servisol plastic seal 60

http://www.kaisertech.co.uk/acatalog...ating_476.html

Jim

PeterM · 25 February 2009, 13:19

Cheers Jim - essentially thats what has been done to check - there is a definate drop between one end of the cable the other. Something has to be wrong under the floor , but I'm hoping that it really is just a case of pulling out a couple of large wires - making up new ones & pull them back & connetn the new ones.

Anything to cause that much drop I think must be pretty obvious. Still I'm just paying someone else to do it so hey its only money

I'd rather do it this way & get it fixed & sorted now rather than on a glorious day in the summer - hopefully the instrument wiring etc can be left in sutu ( unless its all been bound together ) .

Just praying its as simple as I can see it should be - There are almost too many 'things' going on for me to be able to fix or even undertsand on a modern engine - especially an opti ! Std 4 stroke I can cope with ( just) - they are like cars really just with block turned 90' ( in my simple mind anyway)

Pete

jyasaki · 25 February 2009, 16:35

It's not, as far as I know, all that common for large gauge cable to develop breaks.

Personally, I would suspect the connectors, starting at where the cables bolt to the batteries and motors, then the crimp connections themselves.

A bit of poking around with a meter should locate the problem pretty quickly.

jky

biffer · 25 February 2009, 17:48

take the battery leads of the outboard terminals and connect the battery with jump leads and see if it starts, if it doesn't check the loom plug, get someone to turn the key and hold, you twist the loom plug slightly, see what happens

Dirk Diggler · 25 February 2009, 18:10

Assuming you have a kill switch, which type is it. If it's the cheap "red plastic key" type, then that could be your problem.

PeterM · 25 February 2009, 19:44

The 2 blue sea switches have been replaced , as have the batteries ( squadron 85AH - crap by all accounts ? ) , as has the cabling - hey presto fine.

Switches seem to be fine - so I now have 2 spare isolater switches .

You can see corrosion on the old cables up to a foot down the insualtion ! ( cut it off to see )

See what happens in the next few days .

Erin · 27 February 2009, 16:16

Once you have crimps on the ends of your new cables, either wrap the joint in self-amalgamating tape or adhesive lined heatshrink to keep out the moisture in the future.

JABS · 27 February 2009, 16:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackroady

The 2 blue sea switches have been replaced , as have the batteries ( squadron 85AH - crap by all accounts ? ) , as has the cabling - hey presto fine.

Switches seem to be fine - so I now have 2 spare isolater switches .

You can see corrosion on the old cables up to a foot down the insualtion ! ( cut it off to see )

See what happens in the next few days .

And you have that Pelican feeling??

A big bill in front of you??

PeterM · 27 February 2009, 17:00

Yep - eating a lot of fish also .

Has been sat for 3 days now so will see if it goes tomorrow morning !