Strange one this. A few weeks ago I posted a problem with the PTT on my Tohatsu 60hp. It works perfectly on the trim switch on the outboard, but the down switch on the remote was a hit or a miss the last time I was out, so I took a closer look today.
I dismantled the remote and disconnected all wiring. The micro switch is a sealed unit, so if it is the switch, then it will need to be a replacement part, rather than trying to fix it. I've reinstalled the wiring exactly (using the wiring guide from the manual), but, now I've no power to the outboard.
The battery has been on a trickle charge and has a healthy 13v when I checked with the multi-meter.
When you press the ignition switch key - you should hear the choke solenoid - but nothing. I tried to start the engine, again absolutely no power. Is there any way to check the stop switch on the remote with a multimeter - so I can rule this out? It's a sealed unit too - so no chance to take a closer look.
The only other thing it could be is the ignition module on the remote. Again - is there any way to test?
The engine has an inline 20amp fuse - but it's fine.
Stop switch won't normally kill everything - only kills the spark - so PTT, choke and even starter will operate Start in gear microswitch will stop the starter but I wouldn't have thought it was wired to anything else (but I don't know for sure).
Does your remote have a big plug half way along the loom? If so I'd be inclined to open that up and then with wiring diagram make sure each switch is doing what you would expect.
Do you have power at the starter motor's power lug? That's usually where the battery connects to, and the 12V feeds out from there. If not, jumper cables from the battery to the starter motor would be a good place to start.
Might check the kill switch too (more than one person has been stymied by that one.)
Not to be insinuating anything, but the problem seemed to start on disassembly and reassembly. Double-check against the manual, then try to trace the actual wires to their destinations and make sure your connections *should* be the same as the manual.
Does your remote have a big plug half way along the loom? If so I'd be inclined to open that up and then with wiring diagram make sure each switch is doing what you would expect.
Thanks for the reply. It does (located at the engine end). I've disconnected with wiring loom at this point, cleaned the connecting pins and clipped it back together.
Start in gear microswitch was new before the summer holidays.
Do you have power at the starter motor's power lug? That's usually where the battery connects to, and the 12V feeds out from there. If not, jumper cables from the battery to the starter motor would be a good place to start.
Thank you - I'll check this. Starter motor was new a couple of months ago.
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Might check the kill switch too (more than one person has been stymied by that one.)
But how do you check - it's a sealed unit?
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Not to be insinuating anything, but the problem seemed to start on disassembly and reassembly. Double-check against the manual, then try to trace the actual wires to their destinations and make sure your connections *should* be the same as the manual.
I know - that's what I thought, but I double-checked it. I suspect there's something a miss with the loom, or possibly at the engine end - before the power comes back to the remote. I found this on Youtube - so it might be worth having a look at the wiring on the engine.
Thanks for the reply. It does (located at the engine end). I've disconnected with wiring loom at this point, cleaned the connecting pins and clipped it back together.
Start in gear microswitch was new before the summer holidays.
Ok, presumably the wiring diagram shows which pin each wire goes to? Then I would by testing resistance between the ground side and each switch and ensuring it is doing what you expect. I'd also check that the wires on the engines side which should be putting out 12V are at the plug. Personally I can't help thinking its a fuse issue. The only time I've seen a totally dead engine with a good battery and good connections was a fuse.
Stupid question time... ...and I really hope you will forgive my if this is insulting... but you did test the fuse that is actually in the line and not a spare mounted close by (mine has a spare in a little holder I assume others do).
If that is the case what is the voltage between the fuse connection and ground. I assume your wiring is such that it goes through the fuse before the remotes, in which case that would be a good place to check that power SHOULD be getting out to the remotes.
Do you have power at the starter motor's power lug? That's usually where the battery connects to, and the 12V feeds out from there. If not, jumper cables from the battery to the starter motor would be a good place to start.
Just connected the starter motor straight to the battery - fires into life.
Stupid question time... ...and I really hope you will forgive my if this is insulting... but you did test the fuse that is actually in the line and not a spare mounted close by (mine has a spare in a little holder I assume others do).
Replaced it with brand new 20amp fuses straight from the box. There's no spare on a Twatsoo - I keep my spares with my emergency tool kit.
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If that is the case what is the voltage between the fuse connection and ground.
Next on my list. Two glasses of Pinot Grigio later and it's a job for tomorrow. Thanks for help.
Got up bright and early and investigated the electrical problem. Checked continuity as suggested by Polwart on each wire with a multimeter. No signal on the red and white wires. Can't explain why, as I was out 4 or 5 weeks ago, and the only trouble was the PTT. Complete pain in the a**e, as I've had to haul the electrics through the umbilical, lift the rubber grommet at the transom end where it all comes out, etc. There was water on the wiring too, which kind of cancels out my fix, of splicing the wiring to trace the fault.
Even with a rubber grommet/trunk at the transom end - water is getting in? I don't think this is responsible though. The wiring is 2005 (same as engine and showing signs of corrosion in some places). No doubt Tohatsu will charge an arm and a leg. I could probably make a loom myself. I've ordered wiring before when repairing a lightboard, so could do the same thing. I suspect the wiring might have been damaged when it was 'hauled' through the trunking, although given the condition at various points - better to have happened now, rather than 5 miles offshore.
Hopefully this is the cause. Keep you posted on progress.
Don't wish to hijack this thread, but seemed the logical place to post my question. Returned to RIB this afternoon after a brief stop in Cowes. Went to start motor and just got the beep of the 'in gear' warning. Throttle was positioned in neutral. Played around for a bit (shifting in and out of gear) but no joy. Fortunately friends were also in Cowes and towed us back to Warsash. Am presuming it's the neutral safety switch that's failed. Helpfully, the wiring diagram in the user manual shows that there is such a switch but not where it's located. Before I start stripping the control box, can anyone confirm it is likely to be there or will it be at the motor end of the shift cable? It's an 18hp Tohatsu 4-stroke. Cheers!
Before I start stripping the control box, can anyone confirm it is likely to be there or will it be at the motor end of the shift cable? It's an 18hp Tohatsu 4-stroke.Cheers!
On a 2-stroke, the micro-switch is in the throttle control box. I assume a 4-stroke will be exactly the same. Tohatsu sell them as a replacement part £15-20 if memory serves me + £5 minimum shipping charge.
Another long shot - have you checked the state of your battery main isolator? Those things are remarkably not resistant to water. I had a pull start moment on my old Suz when the switch packed up. One new switch later & all was good.
I now carry a 3" jumper & the old connector nuts from the old switch in the tool box to allow a fast reconnect in case it happens again)
Thanks guys. Definitely not still in gear, and not the battery isolator as still power to the control box (hence beep) and other electrics.
Called RibShop this morning and they also suspect the neutral microswitch. They've ordered one and expect to have it in tomorrow. Cost, just £12, and yes it is fitted in the control box.
All I have to do now is decide whether to fit it myself or let RibShop do it. Apparently it means taking off the main cover and being very careful not to dislodge any of the cams. I'm reasonably DIY savvy but does anyone have any hints or tips before I get the screwdriver out?
All I have to do now is decide whether to fit it myself or let RibShop do it. Apparently it means taking off the main cover and being very careful not to dislodge any of the cams. I'm reasonably DIY savvy but does anyone have any hints or tips before I get the screwdriver out?
Straight-forward to replace. Good opportunity to grease the mechanism within the throttle housing anyway. Plunger switch is held in place with a couple of philips screws. Take note of the three connecting wires before hauling anything off.
Also if you can, remove the box from the side of the console & lay it flat before you undo the screws - stops bits of mechanism dropping out when you take the lid off! Not that I have any experience of this scenario ....
Jumping back to the battery switch corrosion, the issue is only seen on high current draw. I'll bore you with ohms law of things in series if you want, but suffice to say the resistive contacts don't nick as much of the overall available voltage when the current is low. E.G. you might hear the choke solenoid go "click" but then try to crank & nothing happens as the starter pulls the best part of 40A. Remember a PT motor can drink a fair amount of juice as well...... Poking it with a multimeter will be at almost zero current.
New neutral switch can't be a bad thing either way.
I always take a picture wit the mobile phone of any parts I'm about to take apart , cause someone always comes in and disturbs ya and a minute later forgotton where that wire/part went !!!
Sula
