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24 April 2016, 23:40
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Seil Island
Boat name: Ron Mor
Make: Delta
Length: 5m +
MMSI: 235116643
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 92
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VHF interference
Hi all,
Fitted a new Cobra VHF to the rib into the former VHF switch panel and antenae.
On first test from the boatyard with engine off, the Coastguard and I were crystal clear. Off from the pier with the engine ticking over, noisy and crackly!
Any quick check tests to find the cause?
Any cures?
Could it just be emf interference from the antenae cable being too close to other cables or spare cable being coiled together (as can happen with TV cable and plug cables)?
Cheers Stevie
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25 April 2016, 09:07
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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Did you fit new coaxial cable and solder in the ends of the PL259 connectors? There's no real reason to have the cable coiled. Allow some excess if you ever have to re-solder the ends. Personally I'd cut to size. Try that and see if there's any improvement.
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25 April 2016, 16:37
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Often, it's the VHF cable laying next to the wiring harness that drives your tachometer. Might be able to tell by seeing if the noise varies pitch when revving the motor. Fish finders may cause interference, but it's usually a clicking noise rather than something more like static. Pretty much anything that has a signal with an AC component can cause interference.
As I recall (and some research is probably in order, as my recollection may be faulty), my Digital Antenna instructions had a warning that excess cable should not be neatly coiled. Not sure what they wanted you to do with it though.
Luck;
jky
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25 April 2016, 17:34
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#4
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Not sure what they wanted you to do with it though.
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Hmmm. Whoever wired my last boat could help you there - a totally random fall of cables - tacked down...
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25 April 2016, 17:58
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Hornet
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: O/B 90hp
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 202
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Definitely cut coax to required length. There are all sorts of reasons to avoid coils. Try and route the coax away from other electrical cables.
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25 April 2016, 18:51
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Seil Island
Boat name: Ron Mor
Make: Delta
Length: 5m +
MMSI: 235116643
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 92
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I've cut a metre off the coax and reatted the end.
I'll check the wiring loom to see where the ariel cable lies and make sure the power lines under the console are also clear of the ariel.
Hopefully that clear up the crackling.
Do you reccomend I solder the end of the coax tip? Wasn't in the old set up.
Cheers S
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25 April 2016, 19:49
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevie J
Do you reccomend I solder the end of the coax tip? Wasn't in the old set up.
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Definitely. Think about the vibration on the average RIB. Any stresses on coaxial cable ends could be a possible fault in the making. Takes minutes to do and gives you peace of mind that the connection ends on your cable are nice and secure.
I do the same for battery cables, positive feed to the starter motor, etc.
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28 April 2016, 08:30
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Hornet
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: O/B 90hp
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 202
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Yes, solder tip but be careful to avoid solder blobbing on the outside of the centre contact or you will struggle to get the connector on.
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28 April 2016, 09:24
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Boat name: Salty Cheeks
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20hp 2stroke Mariner
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 485
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Hi
For what it's worth I was told to stay away from Cobra,not a very good brand.
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28 April 2016, 09:49
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave3235
Hi
For what it's worth I was told to stay away from Cobra,not a very good brand.
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Why that then, I remember in the 80's when Cobra was one of the main rigs to have on the CB scene.
Been around a long time,,if they were no good, don't think they would have survived
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28 April 2016, 14:14
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steco1958
Why that then, I remember in the 80's when Cobra was one of the main rigs to have on the CB scene.
Been around a long time,,if they were no good, don't think they would have survived
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Have you got one steco? They have a bit of a rep for building cardboard handhelds
You'd hope the fixed stations would be better?
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28 April 2016, 14:43
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevie J
I'll check the wiring loom to see where the ariel cable lies and make sure the power lines under the console are also clear of the ariel.
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Which Antenna are you using ?
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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02 May 2016, 19:40
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave3235
Hi
For what it's worth I was told to stay away from Cobra,not a very good brand.
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Had one in each of my last three boats.... never had a problem
I've got a dead Icom lying in the garage and another dead Icom in the garage.
What I have found useless is those little rubber aerials
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02 May 2016, 20:21
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#14
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steco1958
Why that then, I remember in the 80's when Cobra was one of the main rigs to have on the CB scene.
Been around a long time,,if they were no good, don't think they would have survived
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As a general rule the electronics themselves work fine. They sell well because they are cheap. They probably do an OK job in the shelter of a yacht cabin. On an open boat where they get constant spray though the reputation (and my experience) is that the casings aren't build as well as the big names in the marine VHF market and so you will inevitably be replacing it at some point. Hopefully the damage comes at a convenient time...
Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Have you got one steco? They have a bit of a rep for building cardboard handhelds
You'd hope the fixed stations would be better?
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My experience with the h/helds was so bad I didn't even consider them for my fixed station. I'm fairly sure that one of our other moderators tried a fixed station that leaked!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango
Had one in each of my last three boats.... never had a problem
I've got a dead Icom lying in the garage and another dead Icom in the garage.
What I have found useless is those little rubber aerials
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Your experience is relatively unusual from what people post here over the years. When people have had issues with SH and Icom they have usually find that they get sorted easily.
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02 May 2016, 21:08
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango
What I have found useless is those little rubber aerials
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Can you trace fault to gubbed antenna? ICOM should be able to supply a replacement.
Miscellaneous - Icom UK
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03 May 2016, 13:11
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
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To clarify. The rubber antenna was one of the after-market things mounted on the "A" frame for a fixed unit. It worked but it's performance was just pi55 poor.
I suspect both the Icoms had a hard life but they were mounted inside cabins on boats I bought and were dead when I got them. One had front panel knob seized solid and the other just doesn't transmit.
I think a big part of reliability issues has to do with installation, and to be fair you won't get away with exposing the back of any fixed set to the elements. I do try to fit them where the front also gets a bit of protection and seal the mounting surface.
The Cobra hand-helds I have are really cheap and nasty but I've had them for years and they still work. I doubt they would survive a ducking but it's better it's than nothing.
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03 May 2016, 19:51
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#17
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Member
Country: Poland
Town: WARSAW
Boat name: T1
Make: HIGHFIELD OM540DL
Length: 5m +
Engine: EVINRUDE 115 HO
MMSI: 261026640
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 612
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Do you have ferrites on radio cables ?
Not sure how much it helps but mine SH have them in standard.
Mount them closest to the radio and secure by tape.
Without tape they will go down.
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08 May 2016, 09:48
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#18
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Ireland , cork
Boat name: liberty
Make: lencraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard yamaha 150
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
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The interference comes to your radio 2 ways , either via the power cable or via the co ax cable
You first need to determine which is the source
switch on the radio with the engine running and with the interference noise on the radio, and disconnect the aerial coax. If the interference stops then the interference is coming via the co ax, if it’s still there its via the power line.
You can eliminate the power line as a source by trying running the radio from a standalone battery separate from the boats battery
You will need to determine the route of the interference by using the above method before you try and eliminate it, otherwise you could be wasting your money going down the wrong route
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