waterproof trailer lights

[BogMonster]

Just been looking through a Northern Tool & Equipment catalogue we just got at work and I spotted some Submersible 3 Function Trailer Lights - rated IP67 which according to this http://www.aceeca.com/policies/ip67_definition.php
is 100% dustproof and immersion in water between 15cm and 1m. They are only £15 each - anybody tried them? Seems like an easy solution if they are any good.

Also just found on their website http://www.northerntooluk.com/produc...partno=127701E

[Poly]

Surely you don't worry about legal technicallities like lights on trailers in the US?

[Cookee]

Originally Posted by Polwart

Surely you don't worry about legal technicallities like lights on trailers in the US?

I think you'll find that the Falkland Islands are still definitely British!

[BogMonster]

Damn, beaten to it by Cookee

You are right, most don't, but I am working on the principle that if I have lights etc, that may stop anybody taking a closer interest in more fundamental design features of my trailer which could be inconvenient

I've also had some problems with idiots overtaking at right-turn junctions etc which have caused some interesting moments.

[bedajim]

Originally Posted by BogMonster

Damn, beaten to it by Cookee

You are right, most don't, but I am working on the principle that if I have lights etc, that may stop anybody taking a closer interest in more fundamental design features of my trailer which could be inconvenient

I've also had some problems with idiots overtaking at right-turn junctions etc which have caused some interesting moments.

Seen them but not tested,

[jyasaki]

Stephen: My experience with trailer lights suggests the following:

Anything that says "Waterproof", isn't.

Anything that says "Submersible", is, but probably will not work afterward.


There shouldn't be all that much problem finding lights; the problem will be getting them to you.

FWIW, prior to installing some sealed LED units on my trailer, I was running some open-bottom, unsealed light fixtures by Sierra; they lasted a surprisingly long time (over 2 years, without maintenance, as I was trying to kill them off to put the LEDs on.) Might have been a mistake, as the LEDs seem more problem prone than the Sierra incandescents.

Whatever you choose to use, seal all wire splices using adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (or paint throroughly with the liquid electrical tape stuff), and give all remainiing exposed metal (bulb bases, bulb sockets, screw terminals, exposed wire conductors, etc) a liberal coating of dielectric grease.

jky

[Aningoul]

i heard that in Australia they make lights for trailors waterprof till to 15 meters under they were presented at the fair from Amsterdam but i did not find an adress for more informations: does somebody here inform us? thank you, scuse me for my bad english linguage and best wishes to you all and yours families for 2008, particularly health but also not much but enough money!!!!

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Aningoul

i heard that in Australia they make lights for trailors waterprof till to 15 meters under they were presented at the fair from Amsterdam but i ..

You may have seen these ?

ARK
http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_it...AbsolutePage=1

or these
SUBMERS A LITE
http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_it...AbsolutePage=1

I have had the first type for 5 years with no problems and a set of the second for 2 years (added to give me dual indicator and tail lights and using brake as fog ....... not needed in Australia !
I only used the second type for size but would say the former are the better design ..... though no problems with these either >>>> so far !!
Just make sure you don't have any cable joins at the rear - terminate in a IP66/7 terminal box on the winch post with a short wanderlead to the tow vehicle and they should be fine.

Jeff

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Cookee

I think you'll find that the Falkland Islands are still definitely British!

oops sorry brain to fingers communication error - i have no idea how I typed "US" - someone must have been distracting me by expecting me to do work when I was in the office!

[Aningoul]

thank you, Jeff, and happy new year and a resplendent health

[Richard Selman]

I have a full set waiting to go on the new trailer once I have lowered the rollers a bit. Dont see why they would not be 100% waterproof - the LED array sits in the lens and the whole lot is sealed in with several millimetres of epoxy with only the wire tails showing. I intend to solder the joints to the main cable, shrink wrap them and seal them in short lengths of plastic tube filled with epoxy.

Main problem is making up decent protection for the lights so I dont hit them with the boat when recovering.

Not cheap but if it means I dont have to keep taking that manky board into the pickup each time I launch then it will be worth it. I have got the tieing down so quick that not having to connect the board and run the cable takes longer than tieing down.

Richard

[Chris]

I like the idea of this however what about the number plate, without the trailer board where will you put this Richard?

[Jeff]

Chris
Something like this ...... I find it so much better (and quicker) not having to remove and store a lighting board ; which someone always manages to run over whilst you are out at sea !
A nice bit of profile cut stainless would have beed nice for the mounting plates but I found some suspension unit mounting plates from Towsure and a bit of 1" box section to hand.
Jeff

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by Richard Selman

Dont see why they would not be 100% waterproof - the LED array sits in the lens and the whole lot is sealed in with several millimetres of epoxy with only the wire tails showing.

That confused me as well. In truth, for that type of LED light, it was not necessarily water intrusion that killed them (as far as I can tell), rather just the electronics going bad.

I have had 3 or 4 types of LED lights on my trailers; post-mortems have shown that some are completely potted as you describe, and some are bare circuit boards. None of the "RF welded and sealed" cases are waterproof for very long.

I intend to solder the joints to the main cable, shrink wrap them and seal them in short lengths of plastic tube filled with epoxy.

Ancor makes an adhesive lined heat shrink tubing that works very well. The lining is essentially hot glue (as in an arts and crafts hot glue gun) which melts and seals everything when you shrink tube on the joint. Pretty handy.


jky

[Nasher]

Jeff

Has Mr traffic plod ever commented on the position of your number plate and Light?

I thought they had to be right at the back of the trailer, ie hanging out behind the engine.

To be fair I don't do quite that myself, as the lightboard is level with the engine gearbox, but your setup leaves a lot of trailer, engine etc behind the lights.

Perhaps an 'expert' can comment as it would be a lot of work to put in if Mr plod made you change it after seeing it for the first time.

Nasher

[bedajim]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Jeff

Has Mr traffic plod ever commented on the position of your number plate and Light?

I thought they had to be right at the back of the trailer, ie hanging out behind the engine.

To be fair I don't do quite that myself, as the lightboard is level with the engine gearbox, but your setup leaves a lot of trailer, engine etc behind the lights.

Perhaps an 'expert' can comment as it would be a lot of work to put in if Mr plod made you change it after seeing it for the first time.

Nasher

They can't read it someeones painted it black


This makes interesting reading

http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/law/dimensions.htm

[Jeff]

Hi Nasher

Never been stopped but I had thought this covered it (from the NTTA):

Marking of rear overhang
Between 1m and 2m, ensure the end is clearly visible by attaching a piece of cloth or similar.
Between 2m and 3.05m, a marker board as defined in the Regulations must be fitted and illuminated at night.

.... but now I have also found this !?!?

The lighting board must be wide enough so the outer edge of the rear lights is within 150mm of the outer edge of the boat. This lighting board should be positioned within 1 metre of the end of the total overhang (which is often the mast), or otherwise the end of the overhang would have to be lit with an addition reflector and red lamp. The lighting board should not be more than 1.5 metres off the ground. The trailer also requires at least two amber reflectors down each side.


The overhang, with engine in tilt position is 1.6m though the transom is
I did originally mount the lights/brackets on the end of the sliding bars that were part of the original lighting board so I could slide in and out - but changed them to fixed mount as it removed all vibration and stopped me having to replace blown bulbs as often.

The good news is I have back up lighting and haven't had an issue with lights-out which would cause our friends in blue to stop me >>>

ANy experts out there .... pls

Jeff

Jeff

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by bedajim

They can't read it someeones painted it black

.... or I could always use dodgy plates

>>> some nice person recently stole the front and rear plates off my car !!!! Sir Plod says it is becoming more common ...... probably someone with a big RIB fuelling up for free


Jeff

[Poly]

does your number plate not need to be lit?

[Richard Selman]

I was intending to use the sliding poles in the ends of the trailer frame just like they are at the moment. Either two separate boards with the no. plate on the starboard side or else I might put a tie bar between them bent down in the middle to allow for the boat to ride over. Spent a lot of time on my back studying the trailer from down low and there seems to be plenty of room.

Also considering hinging the two boards so that they fold flush with the side of the trailer when launching. You could have a thick bungee between them to pull them back into position when towing. This would give them some resistance to being knocked when in position.