Wiring a RIBcraft 4.8m - Page 2

Downhilldai · 06 May 2011, 12:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

...Proper installation.

Some insulating caps over the +ve terminals would be nice...

Kernow Buoy · 06 May 2011, 13:42

Good luck with the re-wire, I was in the same position as you about 6 months ago, boat needed completely re-doing and I didn't have a clue as to where to start. Thanks to some great advice on here and detailed instructions from DHD all is now done and back on the water. Yes I've made mistakes and done things a bit cack handedly but it all works (at the moment

) and most importantly I know the boat and the electrics very well, if I get a fault amongst the 12V wiring I'm confident of putting it right myself

bedajim · 06 May 2011, 15:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Some insulating caps over the +ve terminals would be nice...

Covers fitted when the sealer is dry

Anyway not my boat anymore but still ok I believe

Mollers · 06 May 2011, 16:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kernow

I was in the same position as you about 6 months ago,the boat needed completely re-doing and I didn't have a clue as to where to start. I've made mistakes and done things a bit cack, If I get a fault amongst the 12V wiring now, I'm f'ked.

Good luck.

Kernow Buoy · 06 May 2011, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Good luck.

Hey at least I didn't get my A frame made up by a trike riding Porn star!

Mollers · 06 May 2011, 16:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kernow

Hey at least I didn't get my A frame made up by a trike riding Porn star!

Did I?!!!

spartacus · 07 May 2011, 10:44

Thanks for all replies, I appreciate it. I finished fitting the fuel trays and have connected up the fuel system last weekend. Shift and gear link cables to fit next and the throttle installation, together with trim and tacho gauges.

Next the electrics. Battery box on order, together with battery isolator, rocker switches, fuse box, bus-bar, etc.

Pics to follow.

spartacus · 15 May 2011, 21:49

If it doesn't rain it pours!

Fed most of the cables through the under-deck trunking for the outboard, throttle, etc. Because the aperture is quite tight (under-deck trunking), I disconnected the throttle wiring to the remote control to haul it through. At some point the start in gear protector (a little electrical switch plunger) in the remote control throttle has taken been damaged when I was putting it all back together. I checked my Tohatsu parts and it doesn't show up. I've emailed Tohatsu UK to see if they can help.

The part is made by Omron in Japan. Part number: 1566RRA

Not holding out much hope. I've rebuilt the part and held it together with epoxy, however I'd rather have a replacement, as these things always niggle me when I'm out. Anyone know of a Tohatsu remote control unit that's being broken for spares?

Is they're a knack to hauling cables through - do you grease them to aid?

The only silver lining was firing the engine up after one and a half years! Bit smokey... but music to me ears.

Pikey Dave · 16 May 2011, 06:41

Omron are a well known switch manf. Try looking on RS or Farnells websites. I find a squirt of silicone spray helps when drawing cables through the trunks, also have somone at the other end feeding the cable into the trunk as you pull.

BumbleAbout · 16 May 2011, 08:41

My old Yamaha control box had a similar broken microswitch and I just replaced it with one of these V3 Style Alarm TamperSwitch : Micro Switches : Maplin £2.99 (you can gently remove the steel arm if that is not required). Farnell or RS will have a wider range of microswitches if the above one is the wrong size though !

spartacus · 16 May 2011, 10:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by BumbleAbout

My old Yamaha control box had a similar broken microswitch and I just replaced it with one of these V3 Style Alarm TamperSwitch : Micro Switches : Maplin £2.99 (you can gently remove the steel arm if that is not required). Farnell or RS will have a wider range of microswitches if the above one is the wrong size though !

Excellent. Gotta be worth it at that price... thank you.

spartacus · 16 May 2011, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Omron are a well known switch manf. Try looking on RS or Farnells websites. I find a squirt of silicone spray helps when drawing cables through the trunks, also have somone at the other end feeding the cable into the trunk as you pull.

Thanks for that. I see RS tools have Omron micro-switches. Quite a selection. I'll probably go for one that has the 4mm travel on the plunger, as it was that part that was failing to make contact properly after it was damaged.

spartacus · 16 May 2011, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Thanks for that. I see RS tools have Omron micro-switches. Quite a selection. I'll probably go for one that has the 4mm travel on the plunger, as it was that part that was failing to make contact properly after it was damaged.

Quick update... Tohatsu got back to me today. Part in stock and can be ordered via main dealer. £10 something plus VAT.

spartacus · 28 May 2011, 18:44

About to fit the Metz antenna. I don't have an A-frame, so was planning to fit if next to the grab handle on the starboard side of the console. Is this location okay, or would you get a Metz rail mount adaptor and get it full height?

Nos4r2 · 29 May 2011, 06:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

About to fit the Metz antenna. I don't have an A-frame, so was planning to fit if next to the grab handle on the starboard side of the console. Is this location okay, or would you get a Metz rail mount adaptor and get it full height?

I'd mount it full height on a lightpole somewhere. It'll annoy you when it wobbles about otherwise.

spartacus · 19 June 2011, 21:16

Finished the boat. Some minor tweaks today including a stainless steel eye for the auxilliary engine when it's in the tilt position (ratchet strap connecting point). Washed it down and took a couple of shots while it's still in pristine condition!

Finished kit includes BlueSea battery isolator, ICOM M411 DSC radio, Twatsoo tacho and trim gauges, Garmin eTrex GPS, Metz VHF antenna, Mariner 4hp auxilliary and Twatsoo 60hp main engine (original cowl was damaged - hence 70hp).

Special thanks to DHS and Downhilldai for invaluable help regards wiring.

Sea trials set next weekend. Better buy a suitable bottle of Cava for the occasion!

pow2gran · 20 June 2011, 19:42

Spartacus

Your rig looks great!

I had it confirmed by the chaps at Tohatsu that no components are required but a mod to the top carb (exactly what I don't know as yet) and adjustment of the throttle linkages is all that is required to up the motor from a 60hp to a 70hp.

I hope the sea trials go OK. I would be interested to see how you get on since I have a similar size boat and almost the same engine.

p2g

spartacus · 20 June 2011, 22:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by pow2gran

Spartacus

Your rig looks great!

I had it confirmed by the chaps at Tohatsu that no components are required but a mod to the top carb (exactly what I don't know as yet) and adjustment of the throttle linkages is all that is required to up the motor from a 60hp to a 70hp.

I hope the sea trials go OK. I would be interested to see how you get on since I have a similar size boat and almost the same engine.

p2g

I'll keep you posted. I think the 60hp is more than adequate for the boat. The key thing is to check maximum revs at WOT. The last thing I want is a piston exiting stage right! Prop choice is critical too.

Burtox · 20 June 2011, 23:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

I'll keep you posted. I think the 60hp is more than adequate for the boat. The key thing is to check maximum revs at WOT. The last thing I want is a piston exiting stage right! Prop choice is critical too.

HELLO when more power is up for grabs go for it

you can always throttle down

It looks like you did a good job on your Ribcraft look at the mess my mate made last year when we rewired my 585.

yoyo · 21 June 2011, 00:31

looking good spartacus.

If its not a problem to upgrade the power 60>70 DO IT you won't be dissapointed. There is no way that the 60 will over rev pushing the ribcraft along unless you use a small pitch prop. Are you running the standard 15" prop?
Im running a 70hp tohatsu and I upgraded to a 17" SS Vengence prop pushing the 4.8 rib. the motor tops out at 5800 revs.

Do you intend to rig a nav light post or install an A frame and lighting?

When I rigged out my rib I ran the cables from the control box down some flexi conduit tubing. (old washing machine waste pipe) it makes the job a little more tidy IMHO.