Wiring an Accessory Socket.

Biggles · 13 December 2006, 16:55

Tomorrow I'm going to wire a waterproof accessory socket which will primarily be used with a 50 watt/12 volt handheld spotlight.
I shall be using Bulgin waterproof connectors with a Carling switch to control master on/off power.
The run of wire will be about 3 foot from the main electric box to the switch and about 6 inches from the switch to the waterproof accessory socket. The spotlight has a 3 foot flex cable.
My question is that I have the following wire available and wondered if it was of the correct size:- 14/0.3 wiring cable.
I haven't bought the spotlight yet.
I've searched all over the net and this site but am unable to work out if this is the right size of wire. There are so many different gauge standards it gets very difficult to work out what wire I have and what wire I need.
thanks in advance for any assistance.

Dirk Diggler · 13 December 2006, 17:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

My question is that I have the following wire available and wondered if it was of the correct size:- 14/0.3 wiring cable.
I haven't bought the spotlight yet.

14/0.3 (8.75 amps) is better suited for interior and navigation lights, 28/0.3 (17.5 amps) would be more suitable.

Biggles · 13 December 2006, 20:17

Thanks Dirk,

You pointed me in the right direction. Just popped out and bought some heavier cable to do the socket with.

Aidan · 14 December 2006, 17:12

Hi Biggles, Not sure about the supply board you have, but I would be inclined to seperately fuse this Power supply.
Based on the P=IV thus 50=Ix12 a fuse of 4.2 amps minimum is required.
50 Watts does not seem much but if its a Halogen it will be like single Headlight of small car.
You will need to possibly rate a 10 Amp fuse or higher to allow for other appliances.

If using Copper Wire on different type of metal Terminal, you will get oxides (especially with salt water) forming and thus these joints will not last. Suggest you "Thin"with solder the terminals first.
Aidan

Biggles · 14 December 2006, 17:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aidan

Hi Biggles, Not sure about the supply board you have, but I would be inclined to seperately fuse this Power supply.
Based on the P=IV thus 50=Ix12 a fuse of 4.2 amps minimum is required.
50 Watts does not seem much but if its a Halogen it will be like single Headlight of small car.
You will need to possibly rate a 10 Amp fuse or higher to allow for other appliances.

If using Copper Wire on different type of metal Terminal, you will get oxides (especially with salt water) forming and thus these joints will not last. Suggest you "Thin"with solder the terminals first.
Aidan

Aidan,

Cheers for the solder tip and the fuse rating.

IBWET · 14 December 2006, 17:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

Aidan,

Cheers for the solder tip and the fuse rating.

Checked how they did it today, seperately fused etc, just as suggested by others, no rating on the cable...(If you get into trouble I can take pictures) others have done a better job explaining how to do it.

Did you eventually go for the Aquasignal?

Incedently, If you do source a wakeboard carrier ,would you let me know...

Biggles · 20 December 2006, 15:47

Sorry for late reply. I shall be going for the Aquasignal. just taking a long time to fit the wiring but hope to start on that tomorrow.

IBWET by the way does that spike think move and if so would I be able to put it on the front of the console below the windscreen and angle it up so that the aqua signal faced forwards ?

IBWET · 21 December 2006, 17:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

Sorry for late reply. I shall be going for the Aquasignal. just taking a long time to fit the wiring but hope to start on that tomorrow.

IBWET by the way does that spike think move and if so would I be able to put it on the front of the console below the windscreen and angle it up so that the aqua signal faced forwards ?

I initially intended doing just that, I think it would look good there,but ran into problems because I also had a forward facing speaker slap bang in the middle of the front of the consol (above the access hatch) so not enough space.

The only issue is safety..if not tight enough (you can tighten the spike with a nylock nut) it could fall forwards making it dangerous,if someone fell on it (quite possible in a rib) I never considered this, Ribcraft pointed it out.

I had them fit a buchaneer connection next to the throttle, this allows me to take the light of the A-Frame and connect it to the consol. The connection also allows the wife to connect her heated simmits, wooly y-fronts etc.

Biggles · 21 December 2006, 17:15

IBWET,

I've today wired in an accessory socket on the far left of the consol. I'm going to order up the light and spike next and see if I can get them fitted on the front of the console. Means I can use it as light if needed for travelling or unhook it for looking around. The A frame spike will come later.

From what you say putting it on the front of the consol is an option.

regards Nick R.

Biggles · 22 December 2006, 20:38

Just ordered the light today so will post some pics when its mounted.

IBWET · 06 January 2007, 12:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

Just ordered the light today so will post some pics when its mounted.

You got the spotlight mounted yet? also I think I have sourced a wakeboard carrier.

http://www.monstertower.com/accessory1.html

If you've not settled on one yet,we could split the transport costs from the friendly fire gang.

Mollers · 06 January 2007, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by IBWET

You got the spotlight mounted yet? also I think I have sourced a wakeboard carrier.

http://www.monstertower.com/accessory1.html

If you've not settled on one yet,we could split the transport costs from the friendly fire gang.

Speak to Roycruse re. the monstertower. His has broken loose on a couple of occasions causing the boards to whip around a whack his engine cowling.

Biggles · 06 January 2007, 14:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Speak to Roycruse re. the monstertower. His has broken loose on a couple of occasions causing the boards to whip around a whack his engine cowling.

Not good.

IBWET, Accesory socket all wired and spotlight attached. Photos to follow when the rain stops.

IBWET · 09 January 2007, 07:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Speak to Roycruse re. the monstertower. His has broken loose on a couple of occasions causing the boards to whip around a whack his engine cowling.

Weyhey!!!
was he on it at the time! (possibly to much spring in the rope)

hope the groovy camera was running....

It's a fair bit of money as well...has anyone sourced an alternative?

Biggles · 19 January 2007, 10:43

A quick photo for IBWET. More to follow.

Nauti Buoy · 19 January 2007, 13:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

Erm, What can I do to my RIB next.............

Fit a bigger engine to move all that extra weight around from all your gadgets

Biggles · 19 January 2007, 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nauti Buoy

Fit a bigger engine to move all that extra weight around from all your gadgets

I find it cheaper to carry a couple of "Badly Dressed Pirates"

http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17573

Hightower · 19 January 2007, 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

I find it cheaper to carry a couple of "Badly Dressed Pirates"

http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17573

I recon that you should fit some stainless Bow rails so that you don't fall in whilst recovering the Anchor (and to look cooler than an icecube) after that a RADAR extension on the A frame so that if it gets froggy you can see where the closest pub is. A self righting bag (for the A frame also) so that when you flip it comming back from the pub in the Frog you can still get home. That's if you can still see your RIB as it's Froggy, if you can't a remote control for the Amber flashing light and spotlight so that you can see where to swim.

See there's loads to do!

Biggles · 24 January 2007, 14:54

IBWET,

Hers the pic you requested. I have wired similar to you in that I have a waterproof 12V socket on the console dash in to which I plug the spotlight. Means I can move it around the boat at a later date if I fit one of those expensive spikes on the A Frame.
Downside for me having the light there is that i can't now put my console cover on, it just doesn't fit. But I don't use it very often anyway. I also found that the spike it sits on developed a droop on the move, so I've tightened that up and we'll see how I get on. Something I would like to solve but haven't worked out yet is how to keep the spotlight pointing in one direction, when your on the move, mine just sort of swivels round. Have you ?

IBWET · 26 January 2007, 07:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

IBWET,

Hers the pic you requested. I have wired similar to you in that I have a waterproof 12V socket on the console dash in to which I plug the spotlight. Means I can move it around the boat at a later date if I fit one of those expensive spikes on the A Frame.
Downside for me having the light there is that i can't now put my console cover on, it just doesn't fit. But I don't use it very often anyway. I also found that the spike it sits on developed a droop on the move, so I've tightened that up and we'll see how I get on. Something I would like to solve but haven't worked out yet is how to keep the spotlight pointing in one direction, when your on the move, mine just sort of swivels round. Have you ?

Thanks Nick,

I think as long as that spike can't fall down/forward ( I would worry about kids), it looks great, did you have a reason for not fitting in the Middle?.

That's a bugger about the consol cover, I use mine a lot, you could alter yours? I always take the spot off the A Frame when I leave the boat over night to deter theft.

My apologies, I should have mentioned the swivelling thing, It's a double edged sword; on my old one, I lubbed the spike with vaseline to ease getting it on and off, apart from the light never sitting straight again,the vas melted the rubber slightly so then it would fall off! I never found a way to stop the movement.

Here's an option I'm considering, (It would get round your swivelling problem) where you have the 3 holes for the spike, design a bracket that allows you to fit the static clip fitting for the light (£10) this would allow you to point the light straight ahead. The spike, I'm considering finding a way to fit it on the highest point of the screen surround, this gets round the safety issue, allows 360 Degree direction and avoids glare back from the boat?

Of course, this is all way over the top, I've not used the spot since I got the boat

I'm presently half way down the "must get the very best dry bags available dear" they probably won't get used either.......