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04 March 2013, 22:23
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Welwyn
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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Wiring diagram for Yamaha 60/70hp
Hi All
I've got a yamaha 60hp 2 Stroke 92 model and I'm retro fitting the PTT from a 2006 60hp 2 stroke model
The unit will bolt on ok, but the wiring has changed from 92 to 06, I have a full manual for the 92, but not the 06
The PTT I have has a blue and green wire only and an earth strap
anybody got a diagram with the above wiring they care to share?, thanks
I beleive its the same PTT from 60/70/80/85/90 HP models
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04 March 2013, 22:31
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wormit
Boat name: lots of them
Make: various
Length: no boat
Engine: all types
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 632
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You will need a relay that switches the polarity. Genuine Yamaha part is approx £130
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04 March 2013, 22:45
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Welwyn
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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I got a load of wiring and other bits with the donor gear, got the mid section, engine base plate etc, so it may be in there, just need a diagram to sort it all out....
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04 March 2013, 23:02
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wormit
Boat name: lots of them
Make: various
Length: no boat
Engine: all types
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 632
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I assume you have a 10 pin harness. Peel back the insulation on the engine side and you should find a light blue and a light green wire. This is not on every engine. You may need to run a 2 core cable from the tilt switch in the control box handle. On the relay you will find the same colours connect them up. Feed the relay with a red feed that comes from the starter relay use 6 mm ring terminals that goes onto the 6 mm terminal on the relay with the red paint on it. The black goes to earth. The two rings on the blue and green coming from your trim motor connects onto the other 2 rings. On the small D plug on the relay you will have another red wire. Power that up. That's all you need.
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05 March 2013, 09:19
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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As Davie says, £130 odd for a relay. In true 9D fashion, I strolled into my local auto factors, bought four Single pole ON-OFF (SPST) - I'd have used a single DPDT centre off relay, but none rated for enough current with easy replacement) The next bit might make more sense as a wiring diagram, but as I'll need to go & scan it, let me know if you want it if this doesn't make sense)
Control side
One +12V feed to the switch on the throttle lever, then the two wires from there wired to the relay coils in pairs, so when the up or down switches are connected, one pair of relays "throw".
Power to PT motor side:
Imagine 4 relays now - labelled A-D. For description's sake, A&B throw when the "up" swich is pressed, C&D when down. (I may have green & earth mixed up for your motor- mine was a Merc)
I wired the two wires from the motor - "green" to relays A&C, black to B&D
Then took +12V (from the main power line to the engine via a 20A fuse) and wired that to the other side of relays A&D, then another from earth to relays B&C.
So, the theory goes:
Press "up" - Relays A&B throw. Green is connected to + via A, Black to Earth via B.
Press "down" - Relays C&D throw. Green is now connected to Earth via D, Black to +ve Via C.
Fault scenarios:
- Any relay doesn't throw - That suide of the PT motor is "flaoating, nowt happens.
- Any single relay sticks "on" - OTher side of motor is floating, not a problem until opposite direction is selected - then the fuse does it's job
- A combination of A&C or B&D throwing - Both sides of the motor connect to the same potential, nowt happens.
- A combination of A&D or B&C throwing - the fuse does its job!
I think the whole assy cost me in the region of about £40 including the IP rated box to put it all in. (Which also doubles as a good connection point for the "super flexible" wires to the engine and the more solid chunky cables to the battery. Yes, I have a big(ish) box bymy transom, but as my engine would have needed a new air intake to park the "official" relays on, it seemed like the best option.
Also I can keep a relatively cheap spare relay undetr the seat.
If you want a wiring diagram, let me know.
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05 March 2013, 09:35
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Double post. - 2nd deleted. (admin feel free to loose this particular entry)
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05 March 2013, 20:21
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Welwyn
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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thats a big help, thanks
I don't know whats in the engine, or on the 703 as its 450 miles away, so I'm trying to plan ahead for the time I'll fit this up
haven't got a trim button on the end of the throttle so I'm planning on using a switch on the dash instead...
If anybody does have a wiring diagram still, that would be good to go with the description
Thanks
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05 March 2013, 21:03
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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If you are stuck for a t&t relay I have a yamaha unit here, I would exchange it for beer tokens.
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06 March 2013, 10:29
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitenight
haven't got a trim button on the end of the throttle so I'm planning on using a switch on the dash instead...
If anybody does have a wiring diagram still, that would be good to go with the description
Thanks
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There is one online somewhere online- I'll see if I can find the link.
As for the switch on the dash - I also almost went down that route 'till I got one for the 703 from Davie (thanks!)
Just be aware if you do buy hthe Yam switch for the throttle, the two screws that give you access to the back of the lever might have an alternative opinion about coming back out.....
Dash mounted - make sure it's not a latching one! I was going to use a couple of IP rated pushbuttons, and ended up putting one of Maplin's miniature non latching toggles with a rubber boot at the engine end. (your motor wil llikely have a press- out on the cowl for a "local" switch. Useful at the slip when trailing. If it spends most of it's time afloat, you could probably live without one at the engine.
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06 March 2013, 11:20
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
Just be aware if you do buy hthe Yam switch for the throttle, the two screws that give you access to the back of the lever might have an alternative opinion about coming back out.....
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Yeah, I've found that one too. I bought a new lever from Ebay instead of changing the switch as it was cheaper-the Yam switch is nearly 50 quid.
If you've got a full model number for the Yam, I've possibly got the wiring diagramme for it. It'll take a long time to work out which it is otherwise.
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28 March 2013, 16:13
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Welwyn
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Yeah, I've found that one too. I bought a new lever from Ebay instead of changing the switch as it was cheaper-the Yam switch is nearly 50 quid.
If you've got a full model number for the Yam, I've possibly got the wiring diagramme for it. It'll take a long time to work out which it is otherwise.
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model numbers off the plate
60FETO
6H2K L
1006858
K
Thanks
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28 March 2013, 16:27
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Sorry, I haven't got that diagramme.
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