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Old 12 June 2011, 07:20   #1
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Wiring NMEA2000

Morning,

I'm connecting a Garmin VHF/AIS & plotter via NMEA2000, am I correct In thinking that I need, 1 power cable, 2 drop cables, 3 'T's & a male & female terminator to make the network?,

Do I need to use Garmins nmea cables?.

Should I put everything on 1 switch/fuse or have a separate switches/fuses?

Ta
Paul
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Old 12 June 2011, 08:34   #2
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You also need to decide which size of cable to use - it depends on which of the units has its own power and how much the ones that don't need. The components sound correct. There should be the relevant documentation in the instructions that come with the units?

I could have helped you with Raymarine as I'm going through a similar process at the moment!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 12 June 2011, 09:02   #3
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That sounds about right, the Garmin ones are cheap enough.
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Old 12 June 2011, 09:03   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Cannell View Post
Should I put everything on 1 switch/fuse or have a separate switches/fuses?
I would put the VHF on a separate fuse to anything else.

What plotter did you plump for in the end?
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Old 12 June 2011, 13:09   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Cannell View Post
Morning,

I'm connecting a Garmin VHF/AIS & plotter via NMEA2000, am I correct In thinking that I need, 1 power cable, 2 drop cables, 3 'T's & a male & female terminator to make the network?,

Do I need to use Garmins nmea cables?.

Should I put everything on 1 switch/fuse or have a separate switches/fuses?

Ta
Paul
I think you have to power each item as normal with a fuse then power the NMEA2000 back bone using a fused supply and connect each bit of kit to the back bone them as you say
And if I've read it correctly the vhf aerial lead plugs into the AIS and then the aerial plugs into the AIS.

Jim
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Old 12 June 2011, 13:53   #6
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And if I've read it correctly the vhf aerial lead plugs into the AIS and then the aerial plugs into the AIS.
I think Paul has Martini's all-in-one radio with AIS.
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Old 12 June 2011, 14:17   #7
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Paul sounds like you've pretty much got it but have a read of this for a bit of an overview:

http://www.maretron.com/products/pdf...%20Catalog.pdf

Stick to micro connectors for the whole thing, you don't need the larger ones. Have you got a battery switch? If you've got some way of isolating power to your electronics then there's no need to add switches, just need to fuse everything, either a fuse board of some type or separate inline fuses, one each in the N2k power cable, AIS power supply cable and plotter supply cable.

Give me a ring anytime if you're stuck
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Old 12 June 2011, 14:21   #8
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just need to fuse everything, either a fuse board of some type or separate inline fuses, one each in the N2k power cable,
Pah! No need for fuses on RIBs.............
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Old 12 June 2011, 14:23   #9
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Pah! No need for fuses on RIBs.............
*Makes a note to ensure an ample supply of fuses for the re-wire job*

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Old 12 June 2011, 16:04   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Channel Ribs View Post
I would put the VHF on a separate fuse to anything else.

What plotter did you plump for in the end?
Garmin 451 with bluechart built in, bought it along with other stuff for the clubs training centre & they chucked in a Pacific antenna and other freebie stuff
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Old 12 June 2011, 16:14   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
Paul sounds like you've pretty much got it but have a read of this for a bit of an overview:

http://www.maretron.com/products/pdf...%20Catalog.pdf

Stick to micro connectors for the whole thing, you don't need the larger ones. Have you got a battery switch? If you've got some way of isolating power to your electronics then there's no need to add switches, just need to fuse everything, either a fuse board of some type or separate inline fuses, one each in the N2k power cable, AIS power supply cable and plotter supply cable.

Give me a ring anytime if you're stuck
Thanks, only have the Yamaha remote immobiliser & lanyard, I think I'll get a 'waterproof' 2 or 3 way fused switch panel (any recommendations) as it difficult to get to the kill switch wiring, as I understand it the N2K pulls a small amount of power which could flatten the battery over time.
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Old 12 June 2011, 23:53   #12
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*Makes a note to ensure an ample supply of fuses for the re-wire job*

Not far off........

Like Bogmonster there are quite a number of things in the "what you would do different next time" section subdivided into the "argue more with Roy" category
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