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Old 05 June 2015, 14:54   #21
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Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
Yeh but if it's a case where your going to detach it anyway ie tying up etc your going to be at low rpm & therefore no damage potential
The damage potential is fairly small & is realy only an issue at high load & rpm,at slow speed it's no worse than switching the engine off
Aye, unfortunately on one particular occasion we were going at a fair lick when the muppetry kicked in. Needless to say, I won't do it again
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Old 05 June 2015, 23:34   #22
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I suppose it's a bit of a disadvantage of a diesel boat that you need to be a bit more aware of your kill cord.
You don't realy want to pull the kill cord an any engine at full chat realy cos your likely to get several tons of wet stuff in beside you
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Old 06 June 2015, 02:59   #23
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If I do end up purchasing an ex mil 7M that is a diesel, I don't think I will add the kill switch.
On anything above idle speed, I wear a PFD with a harness. I'm usually solo, and tether in once I get out in to the ocean.
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Old 06 June 2015, 08:31   #24
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You know there's no reason you can't operate a 12v stop solenoid from the 'closer to earth' of the 2 batteries on a 24v system?
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Old 06 June 2015, 09:34   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zip View Post
If I do end up purchasing an ex mil 7M that is a diesel, I don't think I will add the kill switch.
On anything above idle speed, I wear a PFD with a harness. I'm usually solo, and tether in once I get out in to the ocean.
Zip, interesting - tieing on has never been popular on powerboats the way it is in the windy world. There are probably good reasons, but I don't think it should be absolutely verboten! However, I am intrigued by your idea about not needing a kill cord close to shore, most of the incidents we have seen reported are inshore, and that means there are innocent bystanders in the firing line.

I'm also not sure if following a near ejection stopped by your harness you will be in any state to bring the boat back to a safe stop...
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Old 06 June 2015, 10:18   #26
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I have tethered myself to the boat running long distances in rough seas solo. I'd also always want a kill cord.
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Old 19 June 2015, 11:31   #27
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If you have a 6BT Cummins with a rotary fuel pump in your 7-meter you can simply swap the dummy fuel solenoid with a $15 fuel solenoid shutoff. The navy rips out the internal plunger so the engine runs no matter if the batteries go dead but you can simply screw a new solenoid in, which needs to be energized to open. All you need then is the new 12V solenoid, a kill switch and some cables for wiring it up. I installed it on one of my boats and it works perfectly.
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Old 19 June 2015, 22:35   #28
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lots of great ideas. thanks.

I still have not taken delivery, so not sure what i'm going to do. should know more in a week.
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Old 19 June 2015, 23:40   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkils@mac.com View Post
All you need then is the new 12V solenoid, a kill switch and some cables for wiring it up. I installed it on one of my boats and it works perfectly.
I'm sure that it would work just fine.

But, (a) I'd rather not rely on the 24v to 12v converter to provide the 12v needed to keep the solenoid in the "run" position (something else to possibly break) and (b) I'd rather have the default position (in case of loss of power) as "run".

Hence why clloyd had to get a order a custom solenoid that was 24v "energize to stop".
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Old 21 June 2015, 17:31   #30
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Quote:
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I still have not taken delivery, so not sure what i'm going to do. should know more in a week.
Here's what you should do:

1. Get the kill cord switch.

2. Always clip the kill cord switch with a carabiner to either the back of your belt, or to the back, bottom of your PFD, and not to your wrist or ankle (no wonder why so many people inadvertently trigger the kill switch)!

3. Never, ever, ever tether in to a powerboat if you are not using a kill cord!!! If you are solo, tethered into a powerboat with no kill cord and go overboard at speed, it would be extremely unlikely that you would survive.

3. Make sure your console has an EGT gauge, and allow the EGTs to cool down to 350 F or lower before shutting down the engine (only takes about 20-30 seconds at idle even after running it hard.

4. Use full synthetic diesel engine oil. Synthetic oil is far less likely to coke on hot turbo bearings if the engine is suddenly shut off without a cool down.

5. Always remember that it is far easier to replace cooked turbo bearings or even the whole center unit than it is to replace a human life (especially your own).
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