Project Lomac - Page 2

pathalla · 21 May 2007, 11:03

I had this same problem last season with fishing line, although I have Yamaha motors. The outermost seal is installed from the outside with my motors, I am wondering if it might be the same for your motor. I fiddled around with it for a while and was able to get it out without taking anything apart, Used a piece of pipe to tap it squarely back in, fixed my leak caused by the line and I never did install the innermost one, still in my tool box.

Limey Linda · 21 May 2007, 14:56

Thanks Pat
I was considering that approach as mine is fitted from the outside. If I can get the old one out with damaging the housing it would be worth a try for the cost of a seal.

Limey Linda · 21 May 2007, 15:30

When running engine on muffs does it have to run long enough for the thermostate to open to get water out of the tell tale? this on a 200 merc. Do not have a temp gauge and do not know at this time if the over temp. alarm works.
Thanks.

Limey Linda · 22 May 2007, 18:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Thanks Pat
I was considering that approach as mine is fitted from the outside. If I can get the old one out with damaging the housing it would be worth a try for the cost of a seal.

Managed to get the seal out from the outside. Took about an hour tippy tapping to collapse the steel outer ring. Got a few scratchs/nicks in the housing but will grind up a scraper from an old hacksaw blade and fix that. New seal and standby water pump kit now on order. Good price. $47.00 inc. shipping.
Thanks again Pat for the tip.
PS. the fishing line actually managed to get itself behind the outer seal

Nos4r2 · 22 May 2007, 23:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

When running engine on muffs does it have to run long enough for the thermostate to open to get water out of the tell tale? this on a 200 merc. Do not have a temp gauge and do not know at this time if the over temp. alarm works.
Thanks.

Nice job on the seal!

You should be able to tell if it's overheating by holding your hand on the block-shut it down if it gets too hot to keep your hand there.

Are you getting water out of the prop centre?

Limey Linda · 22 May 2007, 23:29

Hey Nos
Thanks for the reply. You are the Man. Yes, getting water out of the prop. hub.
Getting that seal out without damage is a real buugger. I ground a slight rad. on an small elec. screwdriver and polished off any sharp edges, to use as a chisel. You must remove the inner steel ring first, that is easy. Just takes a lot of patience on the outer ring but once the wall is collapsed all the way round it pops right out.
Best of luck with your new RIB.

T.

pathalla · 23 May 2007, 01:55

Good to hear you were able to remove your seal without too much trouble. Tony, when you get time post up some more pics of your boat, I would be interested in seeing a little more in detail on your project and I am sure there are many others as well.

Limey Linda · 25 May 2007, 23:40

Well. stuff started to arive this week. Mercury Service Manual, Tuff Coat hypalon paint, West marine black hypalon paint and the o/hauled steering cylinder. Now I have to decide what to do next. Have done a few tests with the Tuff Coat and West marine paint on bad spots that will need several coats to build up. Fortunately the weather is good; hot and low humidity so stuff dries fast. Hear are a few pics. I keep that big shopvac in the boat for clear up and inflating the tubes which it does in about 1 min. per chamber; I have 5 chambers. I am most impressed with the West Marine black paint. It dries hard enough to sand but remains flexible. It is expensive @ $47.00 per quart. The base coat on the Tuff coat takes two days to dry even in this climate; the top coat is red. Anyone got any tips on how to remove that" bum fluff" at seams and edges of patches easily. I have been using an xacto knife but it takes forever . Perhaps I will try the missus's nail scissors

sunrider · 26 May 2007, 02:17

I've had good luck using a butane lighter to eliminate the threads at the edge of cut hypalon fabric - just get it near the threads and they will disappear; no need to heat the fabric at all.

Limey Linda · 26 May 2007, 03:02

Sunrider
Thankyou, that is a great idea
Tony

Limey Linda · 27 May 2007, 18:46

Steering cylinder install, , bled and working. two hours of tube patch painting befor final clean up and final base coat. I have a counter rotating engine and read in service manual that if the incorrect shift control is used then the engine runs on the reverse gear when in forward and it is not strong enough.
Checked it out and it is OK. Found some cracks where stern lockers meet transom, but after sticking my head down the hatch discovered they are not structual. Will pray tonight that the tube patching has cured the leaks. The temp is so high and humidity so low that the threadbare areas just suck up the base coat. This is good but I am going to have to buy more base coat. A few photos attached.

pathalla · 28 May 2007, 01:46

Nice pics Limey, Got some storage on that boat don't cha? You will like those forward lockers... Interesting design on your boat, those Italianos do things differently, all in all looks like a pretty functional package. No seating or leaning post for the helm though?

Limey Linda · 28 May 2007, 02:02

Yup,
Lot's of storage and no seating. Remember, it is an ex- dive boat. That is why I have been working on the worn out tubes for two weeks. That hatch behind the very large anchor locker would accept a medium size body. Have a plan to turn the bottle rack in to jockey type seating as it is already bolted to the deck with 18, 3/8 bolts. All iI need to do is get the two stern tube chambers to stay up and I will be on the water. Do you think Viagra will help ?
Cheers T.

pathalla · 28 May 2007, 03:08

One thing I don't mess with... tube repairs, I just can't make it work, hope yours goes better!

Limey Linda · 28 May 2007, 23:52

Hopefully found the last tube leak. Of course, not where you would expect in to be. There is a PVC cap on the cone at stern end of the tubes. Looks like it a PVC ring glued in and then a 4 inch plug inserted. Leak was at one point on the perimeter of the plug. I deflated both stern chambers and applied a good coating of PVC pipe cement to both. So far so good. There was a noticable scuff mark on the ring where the leak was. Spent 3 hours scrubbing boat with soapy water. That is hard work. need to get a boat cover but do not know whee to find one for this boat as I do not want the cost of a custom cover.

Limey Linda · 02 June 2007, 01:41

http://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/...5_blizzard.jpg

Found the above which maybe useful to Merc. V6 owners. If you study it closely you can work out when and when not you will get water out of the Tell tale and the port side discharge. One of the thermostats has to open first and if you get water out of the port discharge but no Tell Tale then the Tell Tale is blocked.
It helped me understand and I hope it helps other folks.

fast fred · 02 June 2007, 09:43

"PVC pipe cement" not the best idea, them tail cones like to leak, thare is an internal inflatable boat sealer, it will fix pinholes, take the valve out and pore it in, cuzz it a rib and ya can't roll it around,just work the puddle by hand to coat the in side of the tube, the cement your only guna have to fix again later. not to mention how it looks. one idea is when you put a patch on one side, match it on the other side, and or use a D ring or some thing like that to patch it, then thares reinforcement patches, like on the cone, make a nice shape patch a left and a right, and put them on. in the end some one is guna come across your handy work, and what will thay say "nice fix" or ............, plus makes your hull look nice.

Limey Linda · 02 June 2007, 13:16

Hi Fred
Thanks for the tips. I probably did not explain the leak very well. The pin hole was in the PVC itself and not at a joint with the hypalon. I only used a very thin bead of PVC cement and it is hardly noticeable. PVC cement produce a solvent weld and is specifically for PVC to PVC which what I was repairing. I agree not suitable for Hypalon.
Cheers. T

Limey Linda · 02 June 2007, 17:42

Got up early this am. ( 5 am) to fit the new outer oil seal to the lower end. Theere was a lot of oil around, so fired up the compressor and blew out the bearing/ seal housing so I could see what was going on. The inner seal is dammaged also. So will be going for plan B ( recommended by Nos). Drop the lower and get a Merc. Dealer to fix it. Pic of lower below. Called nearest Merc. dealer and explained problem and requested he come to my house collect the lower, fix it and return it and install. This he agreed to do.
Have no idea what the bill is going to be.

Limey Linda · 02 June 2007, 18:13

Everyone maybe wondering why I have a RIB in the middle of the desert. The attached link will show you why. This lake is 45 mins. drive from my house, is about 12 miles long and 2 miles wide. Has a full service Marina, with fuel dock and outstanding launching and parking and camping facilities. Please look at the fee schedule, it is quite reasonable, and the chart at the bottom of the link.
http://www.peoriaaz.com/lakepF.htm
T