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Old 02 October 2013, 18:57   #21
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I think you just answered your own question.

BTW, if the rainwater is the cause of your non-starting, I would NOT take the thing out on the water. Outboards are meant to be used in a wet environment; if it doesn't work when damp, it's not reliable enough to run with.


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There's a reason Triumph doesn't build outboards!
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Old 02 October 2013, 19:03   #22
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I don't think moisture caused it not to start. Pretty sure it was just operator error.

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There's a reason Triumph doesn't build outboards!
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Old 02 October 2013, 19:22   #23
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Thanks!

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SAE90 gear oil sold by marine stores everywhere.

The onboard (under the cowl) fuel filters are typically disposable plastic units which are replaced. Get a proper fuel water seperating fuel filter for the transom to supplement it though.
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Old 02 October 2013, 21:30   #24
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I just ordered Gear oil, water pump rebuild kit, a fuel filter assembly, spark plugs and Seafoam so I should be all set!
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Old 02 October 2013, 22:28   #25
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There is more to this isn't there. Wires, coil etc (is it electronic ignition?). I like more scientific approach. Just like any other engine. Pull the plugs and see if you got spark going when you crank it over. That will help with flooded engine as well. If not dig that way.
If yes take apart the carb, clean ejectors and insides. See if you got vapor lock in the fuel line. Tank vent cap open? Seafoam (IMHO mostly it's BS) might work but really it's akin liquid drain cleaner. Works on easy stuff but nothing beats a some plunger action and especially good old metal snake.
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Old 02 October 2013, 22:45   #26
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I'm doing two separate things here. One, I'm doing basic service and parts replacement simply because it is new to me and has unknown service history. The starter issue is separate. I plan to pull the plugs, etc. The West Marine tank I have has no vent cap.
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Old 03 October 2013, 01:55   #27
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The West Marine tank I have has no vent cap.

??? You can't have a sealed tank feeding a motor unless the tank is collapsible. As fuel draws out, you get a vacuum and flow stops.

I assume it's a red plastic tank? The cap should have a vent valve. If it doesn't someone swapped it out on you.


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Old 03 October 2013, 02:01   #28
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I have this one. From the description: "These all-new designs virtually eliminate fuel evaporation and loss by containing fuel vapor within the tank instead of venting it wastefully to the atmosphere. They’re better for the environment and reduce fuel costs as all the fuel you purchase stays where it belongs—in your tank. Similar to automotive industry systems, these tanks feature a tethered, ratcheted fuel cap with a high-flow automatic vacuum valve that ensures optimal flow under all conditions."
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Old 03 October 2013, 03:10   #29
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Reading reviews it might be source of the problem. Overpressurizing and flooding your engine. Or opposite if valve isn't working. For experiment. Unscrew the cap and see if it makes any difference
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Old 03 October 2013, 14:05   #30
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That could be it. I never though of that. I will check.
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Old 03 October 2013, 15:46   #31
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Then again reading through all this brouhaha it's just automatic vacuum valve probably spring loaded flap or something similar. It takes some vacuum in the tank for it to open. While not a problem for new engines might be too much for old fuel pump.
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Old 03 October 2013, 16:42   #32
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I have this one.
Okay so it is vented, just a new design. Never seen one of these, so no idea how robust the design is.

As SIBRider says, cracking the fill cap takes the valve out of the equation which simplifies troubleshooting a bit.

Will the thing run if you keep pumping the primer ball? How about turning the choke off (assuming it's manual) after a couple of cranks?

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Old 03 October 2013, 16:46   #33
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Do you use clear gas or E10? Old engines might not like it either. Prob won't happens so fast though.
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Old 03 October 2013, 17:00   #34
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If you suspect it to be a fuel diaphram issue.

Raise the fuel tank as so it is higher than the engine will cause a syphon affect reducing the need for fuel to be sucked through the line.

Or if you suspect you flooded it. Remove the plugs, clean them up and try again.

*I even used to heat the plugs up using a lighter to clean/dry them off.

Also make sure you have the kill cord plugged in.

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Old 05 October 2013, 22:03   #35
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Working on it now. I think its fuel starvation. The West Marine tank/hose/fittings are blocking fuel. Primer ball is hard and does not appear to pump. I crank over for a while but plugs are bone dry. The West Marine hose has those crappy two prong fittings but I had to swap out one that mounts to the engine because Suzuki uses a different kind. For some reason I don't think it let's fuel pass through.
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Old 05 October 2013, 22:19   #36
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I think the issue is the overpriced $25 Suzuki fuel hose connector that Worst Marine sold me. I had to buy a new connector because the Suzuki had a different firing than the two prong connector Johnson uses. When I push in the pin and pump the ball fuel squirts out but when I connect it to the motor the ball is hard, doesn't seem to pump and the plugs are dry despite several starting attempts. Sounds like I may have to replace the hose/motor fuel fittings. And yes, hose arrow points towards the motor.
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Old 05 October 2013, 22:32   #37
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Yep that was it. The WM fuel connector connects properly to the Suzuki fuel connector (motor side) but will not allow fuel through.
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Old 07 October 2013, 07:01   #38
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If you got a Tempo priming bulb, ditch that at the same time. The one I got wouldn't even pump air (squeeze, bulb collapsed and stayed collapsed.)

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Old 07 October 2013, 16:47   #39
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Bulb only primes fuel pump. It should get hard when engine is not running. Disconnect inlet hose from fuel pump and see if you can pump using bulb. If you see fuel coming out that rules out connectors etc. Avoid having open flame nearby at that time.
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Old 07 October 2013, 17:27   #40
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It was definitely the WM connector. I removed the fuel connector mounted to the Suzuki and plugged it into the WM one on the hose. If both connectors are successfully connecting (but not connected to the fuel line on the motor end) fuel would squirt out the end of the connector, right? Well it didn't. I ordered the Suzuki fuel connector that is the correct one according to the parts manual. Will test when it arrives end of the week.
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