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29 September 2015, 14:07
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#1
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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Stryker and Dolphin T Tops
I'm looking for an alternative to spending 3-4K for a custom T Top.
It looks like a pre fab might be the way to go.
The biggest issue is probably gong to be finding one that will allow me to lift open my engine cover. I have an I/O.
A couple of guys at my marina suggested Stryker and Dolphin.
Any recommendations?
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29 September 2015, 21:30
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Connecticut
Make: Zodiac
Length: 6m +
Engine: Undecided
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 777
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stryker
A friend of mine has a Stryker and loves it. he ended up modifying it and mounting to the console instead of the deck when he changed consoles. Actually last I checked Stryker had a photo of his red Zodiac on their site.
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30 September 2015, 05:45
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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There is still a pick of a red inflatable on their site.
I never thought about mounting the t top right to the console instead of the deck.
It would be an easier install, but a heck of a lot more weight for me to lift when opening engine cover.
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30 September 2015, 06:01
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: California
Make: Avon 5.4m Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,260
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Atlantic Towers offered custom removable stantions to brace to the console.
Stryker won't do anything special. What comes off the boat from China is what you get. Also Google for quality issues reported with Stryker.
With that said, I like the styling of Stryker over Atlantic Towers.
You should be able to get those for $1000-$1200 with a DIY install.
Pacific Yacht Towers in Vista is (approx) $1850 base, $250 for canvas, and $150 for installation (or skip that and DIY). Just a good comparison.... And they are full custom with tubing bent to the lines of your console, etc.
If you do go custom, remember, every tweak & upgrade is $$$.... You could easily go from $2100 ($1850+$250) to $3500 in a heartbeat.
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30 September 2015, 07:37
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#5
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Member
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
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The stainless guy up here did a small top on a 733 mounted to the handrail and sized so you can still flip the console before he did mine. PM me if you want his info. He's a bit more affordable than down south. He dies travel down south to do work. I think he's originally from Ventura.
Jason
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13 October 2015, 14:16
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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Jason,
Thanks for the referral, but my top is going to have a fair amount of weight on it, so it would probably be best if deck mounted.
I expect the quality to not be the greatest if I do go with a Stryker, but I am more concerned about the customer service. I saw quite a few negative reviews online regarding shipping/delivery issues. I contacted Stryker and was informed the top is in stock and ready to be shipped, but the canvas has to be made, which would take 2-3 weeks.
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13 October 2015, 19:40
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#7
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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Quote from local shop is $3K for anodized aluminum versus pre fab Chinese for $900.
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13 October 2015, 23:21
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Be careful with aluminum - if there isn't enough bracing, you get vibration (penduluming), which will quickly weaken aluminum tube.
jky
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14 October 2015, 03:52
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#9
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Be careful with aluminum - if there isn't enough bracing, you get vibration (penduluming), which will quickly weaken aluminum tube.
jky
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Wouldn't you get that with any material you use?
Since my center is movable, I would imagine the braces would have to be able to be removed to lift the console.
I saw one on a 733 where he just had a couple of rubber wedges stuffed in between the tubing and the console.
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15 October 2015, 15:46
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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I think I'm gonna hold off for awhile.
I know you get what you pay for, and SS is probably what I should go with.
If I have a T top, windlass, and seat made, plus adding radar, I could easily hit $10K, and I'm not ready to spend that after 1 month of ownership.
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15 October 2015, 16:54
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zip
Wouldn't you get that with any material you use?
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You would, to a degree, but aluminum doesn't flex too many times before catastrophically failing. SS deals with flex a lot better (and is stiffer, so you get less flex to begin with.)
jky
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15 October 2015, 22:12
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
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You might be over thinking the metal. If it was a big concern you see t-tops flying off all over the place.
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17 October 2015, 13:36
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#13
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Pacific Beach
Boat name: Dash II
Make: Willard
Length: 7m +
Engine: Cummins
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv
You might be over thinking the metal. If it was a big concern you see t-tops flying off all over the place.
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HA! HA! Good point.
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04 November 2015, 17:02
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#14
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv
You might be over thinking the metal. If it was a big concern you see t-tops flying off all over the place.
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I'll get a pic of my arch, which has failed twice (that's twice on either side) from repeated flexing of the aluminum tube (2"? 2.5"?) It's currently left broken, but located with an ABS surround taped in place, and a couple of ratchet straps to hold the broken ends together.
jky
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08 May 2016, 06:10
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
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I just had a local shop install a Fisherman's T top on my Bombard RIB. Very solid construction, a bit of a hassle as they had to move my center console to leave room for the support legs, but it came on nice. 1200 and some change. Also had a local company spray Line X Berliner on floor to cover up fade marks from old location of console. Looks like a new boat.
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