Hey Sibber/Ribbers!
The Plan is to turn this hunk of rubber and aluminum into a functioning open ocean dive/tour boat. I could use any advice on how these boats handle, ideas for the transformation, previous experience, electronics, ANYTHING. I like the look of the Titan 249 XL dive config. But I am unsure what can be bolted into the modular aluminum deck. I would like to add, Radar tower, bow spirit for anchor, dive ladder, motor bar, centered back-to-back seating... that's it so far
This is my first go at a SIB/MIB so I have a lot of learning to do!
Thanx for reading and I will keep the progress posted
-AV
That's a beautiful looking beast! How many gallons does that fuel tank hold?
Supposing it were say, a, 60 gallon tank, would it not be more versatile to fabricate a floor mounted bracket for a dozen Scepter NATO (5 gallon) Jerry cans? This would allow you to fill them at any drive up pump which is probably a much cheaper source of gasoline than a Marina pump.
Here are 6 different configurations for a Mark 6 as offered as 'kits' by zodiac which may give you some ideas forr your boat.
But I am unsure what can be bolted into the modular aluminum deck.
Don't know about that particular boat, but the flooring on my Achilles was fairly soft (extruded?) aluminum. I wouldn't have bolted anything to it that generated any kind of force, lest the flooring be wrenched out of shape.
Quote:
I would like to add, (snip) centered back-to-back seating...
I assume you mean bench seats running along the keel line, with passengers facing out over the tubes? That's not an ideal orientation for them, especially in rough water. They tend to rock side-to-side as you hit swells and troughs. Facing forwards is much better.
jky
Edit: Never mind the last - just noticed you're in Hawaii, which, as we all know, doesn't get any swell, except on surfing competition days. (just kidding.)
As Jyasaki mentioned, the aluminum floorboards would not be a suitable platform to attach an anchor post. Any seating attachments to the floorboards would need to have several anchorage points dispersed over a wide area.
How many diving passengers would you like to accomodate? How many touring passengers would you like to accomodate? Would it see most of it's use with divers or with general tours? Do you prefer a stand up console or a jockey seat with console?
Thanks for the responses guys, you all pose great questions that have got me thinking.
Prairie tuber; She is quite the beast, I dont know how many gal the tank is because unfortunately the boat is still in transit to my island. I like the Sceptor idea and will probably keep a couple mounted on the radar tower for back ups. Touring is seasonal out here, given the Humpbacks only visit for a few months. So I think most of my business will be SCUBA and snorkel related with a max passenger load of 8 and 15 respectively. As for the layout, here's what I'm thinking; imagine walking from the bow astern; off the bow will be an anchor box, SCUBA tank storage, main console with two seat bench in front and a stand up for captain, then undetermined seating system, gas tank box with three pax bench seat, radar tower w/ Aux. tanx and ladder. I would also like to instal some sort of rtractable sun protection canopy/ bimini.
jyasaki; To keep the modular aluminum deck from getting wrenched out of shape I was thinking of running three 6061-T6 structural aluminum channels down the length of the deck, like stringers on a surfboard. Hopefully this will disperse the force better.
I attatched some more photos of RIBs with the features I like.
I am interested to hear what you guys think!
Mahalo!!
-AV-
Keep in mind that when Zodiac rates it's carrying capacity at 20 people that is based on a military operations configuration where everyone is sitting on the pontoons and the operator with either a small console or at the stern with a tiller. I would expect that if you are offering commercial tours, your passengers will expect that they will have forward facing seats spaced in such a way that they can have a decent view. This will reduce the # of passengers you carry by a fair bit. As for a bow locker for basic boat gear, here is what I did;
On your monster SIB!! I saw it on auction and had to pass. shipping to CA would have been a fortune! Did you get the motors as well?
As for your idea about aluminum stringers, Should work well.
good luck!
thanx man, spent hell of a lot more than i anticipated to acquire the whole package. the boat just got in yesterday from kauai, cost me 900 bux to send it 70 miles! it would have been cheaper for me to make the crossing myself.... what do you think a fair value on this thing is? it is my first boat and the little research i did mad me feel like it is a worthy investment but, i am now realizing i have a lot more money and work to invest into her. check back to see the transformation from beast to beauty!
-AV
.... what do you think a fair value on this thing is? AV
I guess that all depends on its condition, if any repairs are necessary. I know that the List Price on a Mark VI HD sold in Canada back in 2003 was $39,219.00 Canadian (~ 33,000 US). I have no idea what they would have typically gone for once a final selling price had been negotiated (who pays list ).
Im thinking 8-10 divers, and up to 15 on snorkel tours. BUT, I have not sized up the boat yet with gear, so the numbers may go down. I just got the boat in a few days ago, check out the pic it looks like it wants to eat my truck!
I was pretty surprised you could tow it with that little Explorer Sportrac!!
It got to be pretty scary going around corners!
I can only imagine the way that thing looks out the rearview mirror! Its like you are being chased by the Navy Seals
Looks like the boat is in great condition - congratulations! I had one one of these a few years ago but my experience with it was mostly in repairs and modifications rather than on-water experience...sold it once it held air and was in good shape. But I've been on several mark V and mark VI's and can assure you they are a very reliable boat, and they've been used in many expeditions.
You're probably already familiar with these resources, but two companies on Kauai are perhaps as experienced with these boats as anyone in the world. The first, of course, is Captain Zodiac....they routinely modify these boats to meet cabotage laws so they can be used commercially to carry passengers with their ocean rafting business (boats made outside the US cannot be used for that purpose unless significant modification has been made). The second resource is Pacific Basin Inflatables - they also have done a lot of work on the mark VI and I found both companies to be of great help to me when I was working on my project.
I assume that by now you've seen that almost anything can be fastened to the deck, provided that thru bolts are used with large backing plates (without any sharp edges on the underside). Also, if your stringers have slots on the inboard side above the deck then they will accommodate a sliding ring to which many types of equipment can be fastened.
good luck with the project, and keep us posted with pictures if you have time. aloha....
bryan
Avius
When I had mine (Mk.V) I discovered that with a normal length shaft outboard (yam 2S 50hp hand steer) the cavitation plate needed to be below the hull. This was because when you accelerate you lift up on the futura tubes (the little ones under the main tubes) and if the engine has been set where you would normally have it on a rib it lifts up and ventilates Thus we accelerated well then when just coming onto the plane we ventilated and dropped off. Solution would have been to lower the transom or get a long shaft engine as recommended! Your transom looks a lot lower than mine did, but the point is still worth remembering.
Often wish I still had it as its the best pure inflatable I have driven, but in big seas a rib beats it hands down.
Rgds
James
Thanks for all the great info fellas. All advice is welcome and very much appreciated! ;-)
SUNRIDER: You say that most of your experience with your mark vi was repairs? Well mine seems to have a slow leak on the port speed tube, and a fast leak at the base of the valve extension on the starboard speedtube. I think i'll b able to tackle the the slow leak, but i'm a bit worried about the one on the valve extension. Any good info u could share to help me along?
BTW
I just cleaned her up real nice with Aurora Speed Clean, and polyguard. Ill post some new pics tommorrow.
I had a similar problem on my Mark VI as I recall - in my case I cut out the extension tube with it's base entirely, glued the valve extension to a new piece of fabric then glued that piece back onto the speed tube. I had tried a couple of fixes with the valve in place first but had trouble with wrinkles and subsequent leaks so it proved easier to do the joining work of stem to tube out of the boat. It's been years since I did the work so my memory has as many holes at the boat did, but that was the general idea. Some of the forum members have really worked magic with their repairs so you might get some better ideas if you could post a picture of the specific problem.
Sounds like you're making good progress...look forward to following your work...
bryan
Well here are a few pics I took after giving her scrub down with Aurora Speed Clean and Poly-Guard.
Unfortunately after a thorough cleaning I noticed that the hydraulic steering hoses had burst, and leaked fluid under the deck. I spent all day today pulling out the aluminum deck and cleaning the mess. Its a good thing too because apparently it had been a long time since the deck was removed!! I found two ropes and a number of screws, washers, and all kinds of other junk! I also found that the valve of the inflatable keel is leaking. So far that totals 3 air leaks.
While the deck is out I'll clean it up too. Anyone know any good techniques for restoring anodized Aluminum?
Using an anchor bridal attached to the two side d rings is the best way to go when anchoring your SIB. The boat will ride better, not kite around as much and you won't have chafing issues on the tube tops. I do take a slack piece of the anchor line and tie it off inside the boat as insurance. Attaching anything heavy or with leverage to the aluminum flooring is always a challenge. The top sheet isn't strong enough on it's own, it will flex and crack under load if the attachment point is small in surface area. However, a nice aluminum plate across the aluminum floor that bolts to backing plates inside the hollow floor sections, which key into the locking side rails when assembled is very effective.
Rail sections are great for strapping things down, but any twist, rack or play in a heavier or more leveraged assembly will lead to wear. My Zodiac Futura track didn't like the play in my seat assembly and this is the result.
None of the equipment, console, benches or ski poles that are attached with backing plates and cross plates has had any issue at all. Just a suggestion for a possible method of attachment to your floor.
Remember, those nice frames you see on RIBS are counterbalanced by the weight of the solid hull. Try to keep your weight low and avoid making the SIB top heavy. Racks and frames should be as short as possible. A really big bimini top might be preferable to a solid framed shade structure. All of the RIB owners here on Ribnet have it sooo good. I would be stoked to have a real hull to bolt into and more weight to handle the gear! Good luck!
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